Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

Perhaps this model can't read codes properly or you're not using it properly. The Autel MS 509 I own reads codes just fine when check engine light is on.

There are no clues here because there is no info. You may have to have it read properly to go to the next level of diagnosis. It may be time to get a Vida/Dice setup....

[nadja]

I do owe a ELM 327 which I can connect to my laptop, but the software that came with it is very basic. Will try and give that another try tomorrow. Keep you posted....

[precopster]

To my knowledge if a generic code reader doesn't drill down far enough the only real choice is a Autel EU-702 or Vida/Dice but I'm just talking about affordable stuff.

There's plenty of garage scanners that do the job worth thousands.

[nadja]

Hi, Yesterday I opened up the etm with the installed sacer sensor and checked everything as far as I could see. All looked sealed and no water has entered. I did not check on the wires and soldered connections, as they are under the epoxy layer. The etm worked flawlessly for the first 5000 km's or so. I brought it in to the volvo dealer today and had a code reading. I turns out to be a ECM-9150 Throttle position sensor 1 - faulty signal error. I enclosed the images that were taken during the test. On one it shows a reading difference of 30.56 degrees, which causes the engine system service required light to switch on.
Would you know where the sensor 1 is located on the etm and what soldering to check?

[precopster]

Sensor one is the one across ftom the Sacer sensor that should have been disconnected from the board and had the black lead from the Sacer sensor connected to the board in its place. On page 2 of this thread it's pretty clearly shown.

Have you read this thread through?

[nadja]

This whole thing is driving me crazy. I spent a lot of time talking with Tony from Xemodex. I reopened the ETM, checked the wiring, measured the contacts, (perfect values with less then a percent of difference), resoldered the whole lot, assambled, read the codes again and end up with potentiometer 1 measuring 116 and potentiometer 2 measuring 14 in the Vida.
The car runs perfect (a part from a little drop in the idle every now and then).
I ended up ordering a new ETM with XEMODEX in the hope it is going to kill this darn "engine system service required" It will arrive in 2 days, so will update once it is mounted.

After one year of struggle, I conclude it is has not been worth it to me, to install the sacer sensor myself.
Better off to spent the $600 and buy on straight from Xemodex.

[precopster]

I've had a number of ETMs come through that simply can't be repaired just by swapping a sensor. You need Vida/Dice to see the codes prior to fitting. Usually if the ETM is code-free upon initial scan it will be even better after the sensor.

Yellow labelled ETMs have good films mostly and rarely wear through. The circuit boards are a big weakness and fail in probably 1 in 4 ETMs. Causes are unknown though one can be uneven or insufficient heat paste under the circuit board to act as a thermal carrier. Other problems are magnet expansion and/or stator shrink causing fouling of the magnet to stator and stopping the throttle flap.

[v_o_l_v_o_uh_oh]

I normally don't give up on these type things, but on this one I'm about ready to. I'm getting too old for this stuff. 2001 S60 non-turbo with white label ETM, trying to install Sacer replacement sensor. Removing the green resin is driving me nuts. And because I was being impatient I was trying to work on it without having disconnected the cable (to avoid messing with starter bracket which I'm having a hard time reaching without taking more things apart). I could still carry through with it, but sounds like when all said and done it might not even work. I'm convinced it's the sensor because I've tried the other common things (and there seems to be the classic wear-out regions such as at idle where the rpms fluctuate a lot). At least if I put it back together now, I can still drive it to somewhere without having to tow. About the thin metal cover that had to be removed to access the green resin and pins, mine got bent up a little during the removal process. I guess the best thing to do there is straighten it up as much as possible and seal it up well after I re-install (agree?) Seems like Volvo should do a better job owning up to this issue so folks wouldn't have to fight this issue so often. Anyway, do you agree with method to seal up the thin metal cover once re-installed?

[precopster]

Without these pick tools in the pic below you are hard pressed to do this and your fingers will get sore.

Also I use a Dremel to grind the tops of the relevant pins down by at least 2mm before I even attempt to separate them as they're not soldered; the factory uses a small spot weld.

The case cover can be shaped back to original with patience. Just run your eye along it and be sure to clean all the older grey putty residue away. When you seal it back up with grey silicone hold it together tightly with zip ties or clamps until it sets. Before doing the sensor swap I measure the voltage across pin 1 and 3 when the unit is powered and comes to rest. It should be b/w 1.35 and 1.5 volts.

The new sensor's voltage should be equal (more or less) to the one you noted. When you fit the sensor to the cut shaft rotate it fully clockwise before tightening the 10mm nut as there is a 2-3 degree play on the shaft. The further rotated the magnet is on the shaft, the lower the voltage.

[v_o_l_v_o_uh_oh]

Thanks, I need to look for pics like this. Regarding the starter bracket that I need to loosen to get the cable out (so I can work on this ETM on a bench, the only way) can I get to it without having to take more things apart? I can't really see what I'm doing and the rigid AC pipe is perfectly blocking me from reaching down in to feel my way around.