Engine overheated and won't start

jlindse1 · Post by **jlindse1** » 25 May 2013, 11:53

My wife was driving the car and suddenly experienced white smoke coming from the exhaust and then from under the hood. She pulled over and shut the engine off. When she tried to restart the car after a time, it wouldn't start so we had it towed home. I did some investigative work and found an apparent leak in the cooling system. The carpeting and floor mats were soaked with coolant on the drivers side and I found a hairline crack in the heater hose coupling that caused the problem. I replaced the coupling and refilled the system with coolant but, when I crank the engine, it sounds different and more high-pitched. I followed the guidance on the site for doing a compression test. Unfortunately, I had to do the test on a cold engine because it still won't start. Got readings of zero in all cylinders. But I'm not sure the readings are valid. When I pulled the plugs, only #3 was dripping with oil. Also pulled the dipstick, which looked full and clean with no coolant in it. Any thoughts on why the car won't start other than no compression?

At this point, I am not sure if this is conclusive evidence that the problem is a blown head gasket, warped/cracked head, etc. but, with a clear case of engine overheating, fear this may be the case. I think I could do a head gasket replacement but am concerned about other damage caused by the high heat such as seal damage or harm to the lower engine. I'd like to get your thoughts on things to think about before embarking on a major repair like this. I wouldn't want to do a head job only to have a bunch of other issues come up later. The car has 233,000 miles and has always run well. Of course if I took the head out, I would have it looked at by a qualified machinist and rebuilt. Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated.

Post by **mikealder** » 25 May 2013, 12:30

What state is the cam belt in - Mike

jlindse1 · Post by **jlindse1** » 25 May 2013, 13:02

I just replaced the timing belt, along with the water pump.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 25 May 2013, 19:17

So the water pump didn't fail in the process and destroy the timing belt?

jlindse1 · Post by **jlindse1** » 25 May 2013, 20:01

No, that was one of the things I closely inspected after the problem and both and both are fine.

Post by **Pauloil** » 25 May 2013, 20:16

WHEN you put key in Pos.II , do you have fuel at the cap? maybe you need to put a bit of oil into each cylinder and hold gas pedal down while cranking it to start it.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 May 2013, 21:09

I replaced the coupling and refilled the system with coolant but, when I crank the engine, it sounds different and more high-pitched

Dump a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder, replace the plugs and see if it will start. Do it outside because after it starts it will smoke heavily for several minutes. It may stutter and spit a bit but keep cranking until the engine will run on its own.

...Lee

jlindse1 · Post by **jlindse1** » 26 May 2013, 08:55

I checked the schrader valve and there is fuel at the injectors. I followed the advice and put a little oil in each cylinder. The first couple cranks sounded closer to normal, like the engine had compression again, but after that went back to the sound it was making before. Still wouldn't start. In an ominous sign, I notice a drop or two of green coolant on the tip of the #5 plug when I pulled it again, although the car had been sitting for a week or two since I first pulled the plugs.

Post by **wheelsup** » 26 May 2013, 08:57

Have fun

Step by step tutorial replacing head gasket volvo 5 cyl

Might be better to swap in a known good engine though IMO

1995 volvo 850 auto engine and transmission removal

jlindse1 · Post by **jlindse1** » 26 May 2013, 09:58

I don't disagree about a known new engine vs. head rebuild but I am struggling with the age of the car (14 years) and miles on it (233,000) and whether to invest further. I have always been a DIY guy and kept the car going this long but am concerned about all the other things that could go wrong (i.e. lower engine, transmission, exhaust, starter, oil pump, etc.) and the expense of fixing vs. buying another new or used Volvo. This is more of a philosophical debate I realize but you have all faced it at one time or another. Any and all thoughts are welcome.