2000 S80 - Driver side control arm
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VolvoFan10
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 12 December 2009
- Year and Model: 2000 S80
- Location: Northeast Ohio
2000 S80 - Driver side control arm
The 2 bolts which thread into the front control arm bushing on the driver's side are not accessable (even with a low profile socket wrench). Can someone please advise as to what motor mount bolts I need to loosen in order to jack the engine up about an inch so that I can remove these? Please be specific as to where said mount bolts are located. In addition, I'd like to confirm that it is safe for me to use a jack on the tranny pan (with a 9 inch long 2x4 to distribute weight). I've been told I can, but want to make sure this will not result in damage.
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matt5112
- Posts: 101
- Joined: 30 May 2013
- Year and Model: 1999 S65
- Location: spain
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I unbolted the front, rear and top engine mounts.
The front engine pad is a nut inside the subframe, access is from the bottom via a hole in the subframe. The torque mount is self explanatory. The rear engine pad is a bolt, similar access to front engine pad. Upper mount is self explanatory.
When lifting, use the transmission pan and engine pan. Use a 2x4 or 2x6 to distribute the weight.
After all of that, I still couldn't fit my socket/ratchet in there. Couple of smacks from a hammer to the tranny pan and I was clear. If you have the GM four speed, it's aluminized mild steel, so there's no harm in this.
The front engine pad is a nut inside the subframe, access is from the bottom via a hole in the subframe. The torque mount is self explanatory. The rear engine pad is a bolt, similar access to front engine pad. Upper mount is self explanatory.
When lifting, use the transmission pan and engine pan. Use a 2x4 or 2x6 to distribute the weight.
After all of that, I still couldn't fit my socket/ratchet in there. Couple of smacks from a hammer to the tranny pan and I was clear. If you have the GM four speed, it's aluminized mild steel, so there's no harm in this.
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VolvoFan10
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 12 December 2009
- Year and Model: 2000 S80
- Location: Northeast Ohio
matt5112,
Thanks for the information. I was unsure if I had to remove the motor mount on the passenger side to get enough movement on the engine to jack it up. It sounds like not. I will try the job by unbolting the 3 bolts you suggest.
Volvo S80,
Thanks for your post as well. Unfortunately it does not seem as though that video applies to my situation. Although the V70 in the video may very well use the same control arm, getting access to the control arm front bushings bolts is very different. On the video, there is room to get a wrench on the 2 bolts in question without jacking up the engine. My transmission pan is in the way of allowing that. Thanks for the video all the same.
Thanks for the information. I was unsure if I had to remove the motor mount on the passenger side to get enough movement on the engine to jack it up. It sounds like not. I will try the job by unbolting the 3 bolts you suggest.
Volvo S80,
Thanks for your post as well. Unfortunately it does not seem as though that video applies to my situation. Although the V70 in the video may very well use the same control arm, getting access to the control arm front bushings bolts is very different. On the video, there is room to get a wrench on the 2 bolts in question without jacking up the engine. My transmission pan is in the way of allowing that. Thanks for the video all the same.
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VolvoFan10
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 12 December 2009
- Year and Model: 2000 S80
- Location: Northeast Ohio
Update: Control Arm replacement completed. As it turns out, the only bolt I had to remove was the front engine pad bolt matt5112 described. Once this bolt was removed, I was able to jack the engine up to provide the needed clerance to access the engine facing control arm bolts. Thanks to all who provided input!
I removed the engine mount pad bolt, accessed through the sub frame. I tried to raise the driver side of the engine, however, the whole engine/sub frame lifted, as if the engine was still attached to the sub frame. I did not want to put too much pressure on the jack. 1. Should I position the jack under the driver's side of the engine or the transmission? DO I need to remove the upper mount on the top of the engine? 2. Does anyone make a 17mm wrench that actually has the right "bend" so you can remove the control arm bolts without raising the engine? Thanks!
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ThommyKent
- Posts: 191
- Joined: 30 November 2012
- Year and Model: 91 245 97 850 T5
- Location: Bellevue WA USA
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I just cut slots out of the subframe flange that get`s in the way of accessing the bolt heads. Then you need a closed end wrench with O degree offset and thin like these wrench`s. I just happen to have. Expensive if you don`t.
http://dwtool.com/product/0-degree-6pcs ... et-kt3074/
http://dwtool.com/product/0-degree-6pcs ... et-kt3074/
I just replaced both front A arms last year,for the two bolts that can not use ratchet to loose it, I used the Offset Box End Wrench ( pictured ) to loose it without jack the engine up,a little tight space be patient and it works...Hope this helps.
Last edited by thaiung on 25 May 2018, 21:55, edited 3 times in total.
- SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
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- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
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I also had no issues using the offset box wrench, but I didn't fully remove the bolts.
Volvo recommends the bolts be removed and replaced, but if I recall the problem is the bolts cannot be taken out and have to be reused unless the engine is lifted. May be another Volvo, but I recall doing my old 2004 S80 A-arms and handled the process like every other Volvo I worked on before - loosened and reused the bolts.
Volvo recommends the bolts be removed and replaced, but if I recall the problem is the bolts cannot be taken out and have to be reused unless the engine is lifted. May be another Volvo, but I recall doing my old 2004 S80 A-arms and handled the process like every other Volvo I worked on before - loosened and reused the bolts.
This was my second times that I replaced the front A arms and twice that I reused the same two bolts because they were tough and in the excellent shape ...Probably because my car nerver drove on winter salted icy roads so the bolts aren’t rusted or damage...
Last edited by thaiung on 27 May 2018, 14:25, edited 2 times in total.
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