Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

Let's see now, I recommended that you NOT use this ETM from the beginning, as codes were not 9150, 9160 which are TP codes. We went down the relay/earth path as a guarantee that power is clean.

I also recommended and gave very specific instructions on voltage matching which you didn't heed, not to mention that this ground earth on the block is yet to be touched.

You say you changed the relay, yet you list that the relay could be shot; was a new one fitted or are playing Russian roulette with another used one?

I can see that you also have a Accel Pos Position fault. These pedal devices can also fail giving off ETM codes as the two are related.

Did you clear ETM memory by highlighting the module then clicking Erase ETM ??

You really need to start with the basics, even though I see you've replaced the relay which is a good step but if the circuit isn't getting clean power due to a bad/corroded earth you are at square one again.

If I sound frustrated it's FOR YOU not against you. I hate the arrangement in the turbo P80s...no room to replace without a total disassembly of the fan and shroud. Because of this fact you need to eliminate ALL other possible sources of error before putting the ETM back in the car.

Have you researched the B4 servo cover (a $25 part) as a possible source of problems with your trans? Was it replaced along with the valve body? My 2000 V70 NA wagon with AW55-50SN 5 speed had massive chronic problems before B4 servo replacement, new fluid, reset fluid counter and adaptation and is now awesome to drive. The dealer wanted $4,500 to fix it....crooks

[max81]

Let's see now, I recommended that you NOT use this ETM from the beginning, as codes were not 9150, 9160 which are TP codes. We went down the relay/earth path as a guarantee that power is clean.

I looked for the ground and the one I found seemed fine, I ran the ETM test in the repaired ETM like 7 times and I decided to use it after so many good tests. I'm sorry for disregarding your recommandations.

I also recommended and gave very specific instructions on voltage matching which you didn't heed, not to mention that this ground earth on the block is yet to be touched.

I said this wrongly yesterday! I meant 0.05 volt. I was told that everything below 0.1 difference was fine so I didn't unsolder. Mistake from our side, my buddy had soldered the contacts before asking me if that was okay, while I measured 0.58 in new and 0.63 in old I thought I was in a range that was okay.

You say you changed the relay, yet you list that the relay could be shot; was a new one fitted or are playing Russian roulette with another used one?

I meant the internal relay of the ETM not the engine relay which I replaced with original matching part number from Volvo dealer

I can see that you also have a Accel Pos Position fault. These pedal devices can also fail giving off ETM codes as the two are related.

I was told that this code often appears if the ETM fails so I didn't replace this part, also don't know where to find it

Did you clear ETM memory by highlighting the module then clicking Erase ETM ??
If I recall right, yes that is what I did, no flashing arrow, ETS or check engine light on when I started the for the test drive

You really need to start with the basics, even though I see you've replaced the relay which is a good step but if the circuit isn't getting clean power due to a bad/corroded earth you are at square one again.

[font=]Okay I will really try to find the correct earth for that ETM and clean it[/font]

If I sound frustrated it's FOR YOU not against you. I hate the arrangement in the turbo P80s...no room to replace without a total disassembly of the fan and shroud. Because of this fact you need to eliminate ALL other possible sources of error before putting the ETM back in the car.

The Xemodex video helped and I got it done in like 1,5 hours yesterday

Have you researched the B4 servo cover (a $25 part) as a possible source of problems with your trans? Was it replaced along with the valve body? My 2000 V70 NA wagon with AW55-50SN 5 speed had massive chronic problems before B4 servo replacement, new fluid, reset fluid counter and adaptation and is now awesome to drive. The dealer wanted $4,500 to fix it....crooks

B4 servo was replaced, have spent gallons of T-IV on this tranny , fluid counter reset


Sorry for sounding so frustrated last night! Still wondering if I should look for a new car

Two things: the vibrations are very very very strong and it really feels like the clutches are going out.
I don't mind having the tranny repaired but first I have to make sure that this is the only thing that is failing and do everything I can in DIY.

More importantly:
When I did the ETM tests on BOTH ETMs something happened.
After having the ETM test window open for a while I could no longer start the
ETM test after on/off of ignition and I got the same pattern like this

ETM flatline.png (66.69 KiB) Viewed 1935 times

[/color]
After closing the window and restarting the ETM test window the ETM test was possible again.
What could be the reason for that. Did you experience anything like this before? Could this link to a bigger problem?

Thank you so much for all your support.

[precopster]

I think you may have clicked the Start test button a little late after turning ignition on. The ETM will only turn on and be ready for 6 secs after ignition on. The angles detected on your graph are around 15 degrees which is the resting state angle.

The ETM has no internal relay so nowhere to shoot on that one. It relies on the blue relay.

Don't just look at the earth; remove it and clean the front and rear face as well as the block. If your motor is the same setup as my '01 XC70 B5254T (though yours is probably the high pressure B5234T) it's above the starter.

So a new relay? OK that's progress.

Having another look at your post you had 1.35V vs 1.38V which is acceptable but darn wouldn't you want to match it exactly after going to all that bother? I don't let them leave my workshop unless they are within .01 of the old voltage. Perhaps get it spot-on with the next ETM?

So this is where I'm heading. Once you finally CLEAN that earth strap and retest/roadtest it may be time to move on to another ETM.

With the pedal sensor you may want to get another but first try another ETM. It's attached directly to the pedal mechanism!! Look at VIDA test to see actual operation. I think it's Absolute Throttle Angle and be sure that it rises in percentage at a linear rate with no jumping around.

Thankfully most of the ETMs I handle come from specialist Volvo garages that have the knowhow to eliminate all the other stuff before they send me the ETM. Working through all this for the first time while not knowing how to/where to test is painful.

[max81]

Thank you for your reply!
Well, considering these "flatlines".
I always turned ignition off/on before running the test and I know I have only some seconds to start it.
Yesterday after the test drive I couldn't "convince" the ETM to do any ETM test at all. Just flatlines.

What I wanted to emphasize:
Even with the other "new" ETM I could also produce this "flatline pattern" by just keeping the window open for like 10 minutes, then ignition on/off, start ETM test within 6 seconds.....FLATLINES.

I thought it was due to a normal dissconnection of the VIDA and the ETM cause of some "timeout" so I wasn't worried because it was reproducible in both ETMs. If I closed/reopened the ETM test window and restarted I could always run the test again.

Did you ever see this pattern during your tests? If I can induce this in both ETMs where could be the problem? ECM? Wiring harness?
Thank you!

Yes it's the B5234 engine

Max

[precopster]

Well it's either there's a software glitch in your Vida version or the car's wiring is seriously sick. I tend to go for the glitch in Vida.

My Vida version totally locks ( I have to CTRL-ALT-DEL to release Internet Explorer) 9 times out of 10 when I send the ETM test command when hooked into my 2000 V70 NA however the same laptop on the same software with the same Dice on my 2001 XC 70 has no such problem.

Can you test the ETM(s) in another vehicle? Any neighbours with a 1999-2001 Volvo around?
Who knows you could be right and have 2 faulty ETMs but this is an extremely unlikely scenario. I have never seen this and I've been sent some seriously sick ETMs and had over 40 on test.

You have to remember these Vida versions are ripped off and probably buggy; not to mention the Dice units are a tenth of the cost of a genuine unit.....something has to suffer somewhere.

[max81]

The ETM is from a B5254T engine in a V70 AWD.
Can I use it?

Thank you

[precopster]

You'll have it fitted in no time. Was it a P2 serries?

[max81]

Noone has a Volvo near by. It was concerning that I couldn't get the ETM sweept test to run after the test drive.
It's also concerning that you say there is no such thing as a timeout so that ETM Test window and VIDA get disconnected. Bummer.
I fear it could be some major problem but don't know how to trouble- shoot ECM, ETM , TCM and wiring harness. My battery is not at 100% but I always charged it before running the tests and it has always been between 12.0-12.5 Volts and never dropped during the test.

Thank you!

Maximilian

[max81]

Its from this car.
http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1LZ56D9X2543527
It's kind of hard to find out if that is a P2. P2 was introduced later in the US than in the UK.
They say the Volvo Production Seq. Number is: 543527. If that gives any clues?
The ETM is a yellow label and my VIDA says that it has the newest software on it. I guess it was replaced.
I feel this is not a P2....

Max

[precopster]

It's from a 1999 P80. Just put the VIN into Vida and click on the background; Vida will give you an image of the car. It doesn't matter. It will work. The production date is on the ETM in the second line. For example 02W34 means '02 build week 34. Also the production date is on a circular casting with year and month on the ETM body.