Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

max81 · Post by **max81** » 07 Jun 2013, 12:24

Great,
shall I try to just plug and play the old ETM without TPS install and see if it works? The ETM tests looked great on it. I have to find out if it is "just" the ETM and tranny which have caused all these problems or if it is something bigger.
I measured the old sensors Voltages. Could they have been off to begin with so adjusting the new ETM with these voltages would still screw it up? Just wondering.

I have tested the gas pedal in the parameter testing setup of VIDA ( where you can have real-time graphs showing the pedal position and RPMs). It was responsive, no glitches, everything seemed fine as far as I can tell.
How would you test the pedal sensor?

Thank you for finding this out for me. BTW the ETM is from 02 but don't recall the week.

Max

Thank you

Max

Post by **precopster** » 07 Jun 2013, 16:28

I've been running a non-Sacer ETM in my na wagon now for 3 months however removal takes less than 5 minutes for me in one of these.

Your call there. Usually if they're yellow label the films are ok and not worn down. They have other problems like corrosion on contact points on films that cause codes when you go over a large pothole.

Voltages for each ETM are unique. Programming has no effect. If you refurbish this other one start from scratch.

Have you removed and cleaned that earth yet?

max81 · Post by **max81** » 12 Jun 2013, 19:22

Sorry Mike for the late response,

I was out of town and wasn't focused on the car (driving a Mazda rental at the moment

)
I will clean this earth and build in the other ETM without Sacer-TPS. I will also replace the battery (it's still under warranty, Arizona kills batteries like mayflies). I need to find out if I can get the car running to be able to have the tranny fixed. Thank you for all your support so far. I will keep you updated.

What do you mean with "voltages are unique"? Do you mean they differ for every ETM and I can only hope that the "new" ETM will match with the car? Or do you mean that they are pretty much the same for all these ETMs?

If I build in the "new" ETM, the measurements have to match with what the ECM expects, right?
So I can only HOPE it will work?
If I would repair the "new" ETM with Sacer TPS I will have to turn the magnet till the "new" ETM spits out the same voltages that the old ETM spit out, right? I hope I understand that correctly. Why else would I care for the right voltages than for the purpose of mating the new ETM with the ECM, TCM of the car?

Max

Post by **precopster** » 13 Jun 2013, 02:34

Each ETM, whether it suits a XC70 or multiple XC70s has its own reference voltage when manufactured (actually after programming)

You measure each individual ETMs voltage and match it with the same voltage after Sacer sensor fitment. It has no relationship to any other ETM.

Also the voltage has nothing to do with programming because programming is done on "configuration" basis not on a "live" basis like later Bosch units.

max81 · Post by **max81** » 13 Jun 2013, 10:15

Does the ETM itself create a fault code if the voltages don't fit?
I have a hard time understanding why a different voltage would create fault codes if both sensors measure the same voltage and these are sent to the control module.

In other words: Which system acts up if the voltages don't fit?

If the "new" ETM has very different voltages than the old ETM will this create problems?

Post by **precopster** » 13 Jun 2013, 15:14

The voltages aren't sent directly to the ECM because they're not measured at the connector. The logic board determines if they're within limits then proceeds to work correctly if they are. When they're out of range or have large difference ( from sensor 1 to sensor 2 for example) the board sends an error message to the ECM. If the magnet is turned too much or too little in either direction the ETM won't even start. When level 2 sw is used ( post 2006) it has better diagnostic ability. If one sensor is disconnected it will double click upon startup.

There are a whole bunch of other criteria that the logic board is looking for, however I've never used circuit diagrams because Magnetti hasn't provided any so I don't know what these parameters are. I just know that some of the ETMs work fine after a sensor change and some have internal fault(s) that prevent their operation (though these are always present prior to sensor change)

I've never had an ETM fail after sensor change if it operated perfectly prior to sensor change (I don't get any through that AREN'T calling codes)

So now after ETM theory 101 have you found and checked the earth yet? Another method is to measure resistance between the brown lead at the ETM connector at the car's loom and chassis ground (this is done with battery disconnected)

If there's more than 1ohm of difference that chassis ground will need to be cleaned. OR measure voltage between green and brown leads at the loom. This should be equal to battery voltage.

Have you yet downloaded the ETM faultracing sheet?

max81 · Post by **max81** » 16 Jun 2013, 15:53

We measured 0.26 ohms over brown to ground so that seems fine.
BUT I could certainly not measure battery voltage over brown and green when battery was on (also when ignition was turned to II we only measured 1.2 volts.
I have no idea what that means and how this could be caused.

Thanks for your support.

Max

max81 · Post by **max81** » 17 Jun 2013, 02:42

A small update.
So I installed the ETM from the other car after running two sweep test which looked fine.
Checked the fluid level in the transmission, erased all codes and took it for a test drive.
Well "drive"...
The car barely got rolling. However, the response to the gas pedal felt alot better but gears didn't engage except of reverse.
Limbed around some blocks with engine at 2000-4000 without geaer shift or clutches engaging.
Slight burnt smell coming from the outside as well.
After 5 minutes Transmission arrow flashes. ETS light NOT on!!
Came back and read out codes. Only two transmission codes. NO ETM codes.
I guess I have cured the ETM problem but now the transmission needs an overhaul despite the new valvebody, B4 servo cover and tons of fresh oil in the last months.
Crossing fingers that a new transmission will get the car back on the street.
From your experiences, would you recommend rebuilding the transmission or swapping in a used transmission?
Thank you Mike for all your help so far.

Max

Post by **precopster** » 17 Jun 2013, 03:22

So how does it drive in reverse?

I'm glad you can stop wasting your time/mental energy on the ETM and fry the bigger fish which is the transmission.

I have a '01 XC70 waiting to have the auto trans pulled so I'll PM you with the link to the thread as I will tear it down and post pics (it has NO reverse and sticking friction plates)

max81 · Post by **max81** » 17 Jun 2013, 15:46

I goes into reverse but kicks into reverse. It drives otherwise fine in reverse.
That can't be said about "D".

Anyways I hope the short test drive was long enough to make sure that ETM codes would have come up.
I felt uncomfortable driving the car around any further because I didn't want to leave more metal debris from the clutches in the transmission in case it might get repaired.
I'm interested to hear how your transmission repair goes. Thank you in advance

Max

Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Re: Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures