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Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Instructions w/pics: Changing Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner
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madspeed50
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Joined: 1 August 2012
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5m
Location: PA

Re: Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/

Post by madspeed50 »

haha gotcha!

Sent from my rooted, rommed Galaxy Nexus....

carletal
Posts: 3
Joined: 30 October 2012
Year and Model: V70R, 1998
Location: Spokane, WA USA

Post by carletal »

I have read with interest about changing the timing belts on my '98 V70R and have the following question: Understanding that failure of the timing "linkage" results in catastrophic head/valve damage (piston also ?). Is the failure sudden and catastrophic, or are their subtle signs that the belt is "about to go" such as noises, etc, where you could shut down before your head is destroyed? I have been told by my local Volvo shop that I need to do the belt, and I do believe them. I have the parts on order and will be capable of handling the job my self I am sure, but I wonder if I should be putting the car to bed till the installation is done. Life is a gamble but I would rather not be playing Russian Roulette !

Thoughts ?

Thanks !

Carl

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

SUDDEN AND CATASTROPHIC. No warning. Nine times out of 10 you never even hear anything when it happens. You can drive it if you know when it was last done. Seven years or 70,000 miles is the guide. Some go 20,000+ over but I would never try that.

Heck, you are so close to iPd, you should get your parts in 2 days.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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carletal
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Joined: 30 October 2012
Year and Model: V70R, 1998
Location: Spokane, WA USA

Post by carletal »

Old post but still worth the comment:
The marks on the pulleys represent proper coordination of the intake and exhaust valves with the pistons. Since this engine is capable of complete interference (i.e. smashing the pistons into the valves!) this is essential and what everyone is concerned about. That said, TDC is usually used, as mentioned for the VW distributor, to be a marker of IGNITION timing, i.e fire at 6 degrees (example) before top dead center (BTDC) Usually we time to number one spark plug just because it is easy to find!

Though the distributor is typically run off the same "timing chain" type system as the valve train, the two are integrally linked, but it is unclear whether the "white marks" in the intake and exhaust pulleys represent a position of TDC or not. As such, I do not think it wise to do this adjustment with any concept of TDC. Also, the comment of 1or 2 degrees off is no big deal, may be practical, but if you have done ANYTHING to your engine's performance (IPD CPU, Lucky's CPU, exhaust work, head work, etc), then going the WRONG way by 2 degrees will be very counterproductive. The more "electronic" these engines become the less like a real distributor we see, the less we are used to.

Also note that IPD has a video for 20 bucks that "shows" how to do this job, but it is on a "bench" engine, not in a car, and is really pretty worthless if you have any concept of what you are doing. I suppose if you can't figure out how to get at these guts, you have no right to be doing the job, but the trick entirely is access. The job itself is otherwise pretty easy !

reg gole
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Joined: 6 January 2011
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5 SE
Location: British Columbia

Post by reg gole »

Some perspectives from the front lines when doing a complete TB, WP, and idler and such...in other words the works. Great step by steps here and the FCP video. All the documented work is amazing. The members here give novice mechanics the confidence to undertake work their beloved Volvos. BUT.....the T45 torx bolt that is hard to get off due to tight spaces? I stripped mine and while there are work arounds to remove stripped bolts, you must get a T45 socket that is shorter than 4.6cm and a skinny 3/8" articulated driver. The pipe and t45 torx key is not going to help a seized bolt. I decided to leave that part because it was a time sinkhole with no easy way out except invasive hack sawing to get the washer off to undo the bolt. I'll do it next spring, sadly. Also, you must get deep 10mm 12mm sockets! Bon voyage!

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Post by abscate »

My 1999 Volvo manual states the TB replacement interval is 100,000 miles

I'm trying to gather some data on timing belt Failures (not replacement) to actually measure the life of these things to guide the folks trying to optimize the money curve on their car.

I Replaced mine at 135k for example. I do believe we can get carried away by fear , uncertainty, and doubt of TB failure. Thinking mathematically, the Volvo recommendation of 100k is not going to be a MTBF but 2-3 sigma on the conservative side. To really get a good MTBF we need 30 reports of TB failures with mileage.

If I had a 100k mile car and was driving 5k a year and wanted 5 more years out of it, timing belt replacement would not make sense, for example.
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Post by Ozark Lee »

With the '94 and on models the the actual belt rarely fails on its own. 9 times out of 10 what gets you is a water pump or a tensioner failure. The mechanical tensioner on your '99 has been particularly problematic.

On my '99 I plan on sticking with the 70k service interval.

...Lee
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Post by abscate »

I'm being all inclusive on the timing belt failure data...ie failure of any of the components driven by the TB is defined as failure.
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reg gole
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Post by reg gole »

UPDATE: The problematic T45 torx bolt that we all have loved removing. I am pleased to report that after a fantastic homemade greek dinner that night (i'm not greek), I was taking the recycles out to the garage. Well, like a mistress that car is, I had one more go at her and tried the T45 bolt. I should mention that I had soaked the inner part of the bolt as much as I could with our best liquid friend, PB BLASTER. Perhaps it was the few hours it had to soak through or the belly full of wine, but the very last attempt at the bolt released its threaded, surly grip on the engine block! What a break through. Off to the landfill ye olde tension roller goes. So perhaps it was the PB Blaster but what a relief.

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Post by abscate »

PB is great stuff but you shoud give it days to work its magic, not hours. Especially on O2 sensors! Plan ahead!
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