'01 s40 Driver's Window Regulator

crosby1 · Post by **crosby1** » 03 Aug 2012, 07:20

any help would be greatly appreciated!

the driver's side power window was stuck in the "down" position; i was able to manually push it back up and get it closed.

i've removed the door panel and in testing the window it seems like the motor runs fine; the window just won't go up and down. i've removed the 3 small bolts holding the regulator/motor assembly in place in the hopes of taking it out and seeing what was wrong, but i can't figure out how to get the assembly out from behind the door panel.

i'm missing a trick somewhere.

any suggestions on how to get the assembly out of the door panel and any hints on what could be causing the window to not go up and down even though the motor seems to run OK?

thanks so much in advance!

crosby1 · Post by **crosby1** » 11 Aug 2012, 13:27

bump.

still can't figure out how to get the window regulator out and replace it...

i've already bought a new one for $200, i just need some help with removal and install instructions.

thanks very much!

Post by **zulu-v40** » 11 Aug 2012, 20:29

Are you sure it's the regulator and not the master window switch? When something similar happened to my Volvo, I inspected the window switch and found that the electronic harness was slightly loose. I've also read about people removing the window switch, cleaning the copper contact points, and reinstalling the switch with some success.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 17 Jun 2013, 19:15

I am having the same issue with mine but it is on a '00 V40 (same door and mechanism)...I hear the motor both up and down but the glass doesn't move. I can slide it up and it is taped in the up position now with door panel off. VADIS only shows how (and not well) to replace the whole mechanism. I'm thinking that this isn't the issue with my car. Any write-ups, etc? I know on an 850/S/V/XC/C70 there are blue "blocks" in the contraption that wears out and you replace those for a cheap fix (but still no piece of cake). I'd like to know if I'm dealing with a similar fix or not...too dark so see tonight so I'm waiting until there is more light during the day tomorrow.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 17 Jun 2013, 22:10

No replies- going to a junk yard in the morning to take one out of an S40 to see how or works and possibly take it home.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 19 Jun 2013, 01:33

So, I figured no one would post a reply- this car is not one of the popular ones on MVS.
Anyway, just because the motor runs in the window lift (regulator) mechanism doesn't mean it's not shot. Typically (from what I've read), if it runs (you hear the motor both up and down) but you can push the window up or down by hand, the gears in the motor are bad and the only real fix is to replace the whole thing. So, I did some searching. VADIS instructions were good for only a few thing (most important- don't tighten the screws that bolt the glass on tightly until you the window works correctly). If you do this, the motor will scream as you raise the window and won't be able to push the glass all the way up. I looked at regulators that were on sale from several sites including eBay to get an idea of what I was working with before I started and this seemed to help. Really, it was not a bad repair at all!!

We have a "Pull-A Part" place here and I found 2 S40's in the junk yard there. Look around for local junk yards!! Otherwise, these are not cheap units. I actually ended up getting the regulator and a bunch of parts that I'm sure I will use in the future for a total of $40. The first usable care I came to was a '01 S40. The car I'm working on is a '00 V40...makes no difference. Anything S or V 40 from 2000-2004 are the same! Only thing is the front door and back doors are different and Left and Right are different- so it's important to get the right regulator.

The door paneling comes out easily (to do this, pull off the triangular plastic piece that covers the spot next to the side mirror first, then pull the door handle out and pull the screw from behind it. Next, pull the speaker cover off and there is a screw next to the 4 screws holding the speaker in- take it out. Next, the screw under a little plastic tab in the tub behind the window switch and then there is one screw with a plastic circular cover at the center base of the door panel and two more like it at the edge when you open the door. Some of the screws are longer so make a note of which one goes back where. The circular pieces that are there to match the decor just pull off and all of the screw heads underneath are Phillips heads- surprised they weren't torx...

Now, you will want to pull the plastic (water proofing) away from the holes- especially those at the bottom where you will be working to remove the regulator and attach the glass. Have some duct tape ready for when the job is done so you can tape it all back together. The regulator unbolts easily..two 10mm screws at the top and two at the bottom and then three screws for the motor...The only thing is if the window is up, you won't be able to get the glass window separated from the regulator (which bolts onto it) because you can't reach the bolts with a ratchet unless the window is down. You will need the window down to unbolt your glass as well as to get the glass off of the one in the junk yard. Without power on a junked car this was going to be nearly impossible. I ended up breaking the window to get the part out...no biggie- the junk yard didn't care as they were trashing the car tomorrow anyway. If it matters to you, you can take a 12V battery and hook it up to the motor itself (you'll see the two pins when you take the electrical connector off- a short jolt will raise it or lower it quickly several inches depending on which way you connect the wires.

Remember to keep the window taped at the up-most position. The next step is to un-clipping the power cable from the regulator (and we are lucky it's an easy connector to get off) after all is unbolted and slide the whole unit out from the bottom of the door. Now, momentarily plug up the replacement regulator and turn the power on your car (key in position 2) and power down the part that attaches to the glass so it is about 3/4 of the way down (I looked at the bad regulator that I had unbolted the glass from and tried to match the location of the attachment piece). If you don't do this, you won't have access to the bolts to attach the glass. Then, take off the connector again and put the replacement piece in (make sure the window stays up in the most upward position while doing this) and connect the electrical connector to it again. Then un-tape the window and gently slide it down to where it should bolt on. The glass that came out of my car had 25T torx bolts in the glass...while the replacement had 10mm bolts and a metal piece that the window was jammed into- they were different, but it doesn't matter- once installed, the window will work correctly and whether torx or 10mm bolt, all threads are the same so, use what is most convenient for you. I ended up using the original torx head bolts that were in my car because the torx wrench I have is longer and easier to access the bolts than a 10mm ratchet. After the glass slides into place, bolt on the glass but don't tighten but a few turns- you want the glass to be able to move around a bit (this is key)... Push the button to raise the window and guide the glass all the way up so it closes evenly. Do this a few times. The glass will seat in the regulator connection correctly (the holes for mounting are sort of oblong to give some adjustment). What you are trying to do here is let it self-adjust. Once you are satisfied, lower the glass again until you can reach the bolts through the inside door and tighten them. VADIS instructions say 8mN which is close to 2 pounds of pressure- I just gave them a good secure cinch...be careful though- we are dealing with glass here!! After this, raise and lower the window a final time just to make sure all is still well. then duct tape back the plastic hole coverings and re-attach the paneling with the original bolts and you're good to go. The entire process took me about 20 minutes!!!

gregorymatthews · Post by **gregorymatthews** » 04 Aug 2015, 07:38

I just went through this process on my '02 S40. Instructions are well written, thank you.

Some additional gotchas that I encountered:

* The replacement part from FCP is not identical, but does the job. I had to jury-rig the connector, but they did supply a separate connector that I was able to use.
* Once installed, my window would bind on the way up, and start to cock to one side. I tried adjusting several times to no avail. Upon a more detailed inspection, I learned that the window had worked its way out of the forward track on my driver side. It took a bit of manipulation, but once the window was properly seated in the track, it worked very smoothly. So smooth, in fact, I needed to tape it up in place. So head this post, make sure the window is taped up at the beginning and stays in the track. You'll save yourself some hassle. Adjustment after this was simple.

Thanks again for a wonderfully detailed post.

gregorymatthews · Post by **gregorymatthews** » 04 Aug 2015, 07:40

I just went through this process on my '02 S40. Instructions are well written, thank you.

Some additional gotchas that I encountered:

* The replacement part from FCP is not identical, but does the job. I had to jury-rig the connector, but they did supply a separate connector that I was able to use.
* Once installed, my window would bind on the way up, and start to cock to one side. I tried adjusting several times to no avail. Upon a more detailed inspection, I learned that the window had worked its way out of the forward track on my driver side. It took a bit of manipulation, but once the window was properly seated in the track, it worked very smoothly. So smooth, in fact, I needed to tape it up in place. So head this post, make sure the window is taped up at the beginning and stays in the track. You'll save yourself some hassle. Adjustment after this was simple.

Thanks again for a wonderfully detailed post.