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broken bolt extraction failed

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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jj19902003
Posts: 15
Joined: 2 June 2013
Year and Model: 1997 850GLT
Location: South Bend, Indiana

broken bolt extraction failed

Post by jj19902003 »

Hey guys

Just completed a pcv system replacement a couple days ago, but in the process, when i tried to take off the vacuum tree, the bolt just snapped clean off into the intake manifold. I threw another code for the vacuum leak and diagnosed with a couple sprays of carb cleaner that i believe it is coming from a bad seal on the vacuum tree. I went out and got an extractor set(aka easy out) but in the process the easy out snapped off into the bolt as well.... all along the way i was soaking the area in pb blaster. also tried heating up the engine and that did not help either.

Any suggestions? Would I be able to just get some high temperature silicone and possibly make a seal there?

Thanks!

m96ag
Posts: 172
Joined: 12 June 2013
Year and Model: 2000 V70XC
Location: USA

Post by m96ag »

If there is enough of the bolt sticking out you can try using a dremel to grind a slot into it then try removing it with a screwdriver. Also, to break rust using heat you need a propane torch to get it hot enough.
2000 V70XC 160,000mi.

JDS60R
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Post by JDS60R »

You can weld onto the stud (if you are or know a good welder) and turn it out.

If you can submerge the entire manifold you can chemically remove the bolt from an aluminum manifold with hot water and "alum of potash"

Or

You can destroy the metal in an aluminum substrate with activated acid called tap-x . If you do not know how to handle and use acid safely please involve someone qualified to oversee your safety measures.

Tap-x isn't that harsh but still - its acid !!!
Retired

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

There has to be junkyards with ample supply of these manifolds.
I have one You can have for $5 and whatever shipping costs.
$3 for aluminum scrap value and $2 for fuel to the closest post office.

rugbygrrl_15
Posts: 33
Joined: 27 February 2012
Year and Model: 98 S70 Base
Location: LA, USA
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Post by rugbygrrl_15 »

Hi

I am having the EXACT %&*!@ problem! I just finished up my PVC repair, putting everything back together, tightening up the bolts on the fuel rail and SNAP.

I torqued the right bolt clean off. I was destroyed, but I knew I needed a metal drill bit and a bolt remover, no biggie. WRONG. I broke the Easy Out

Hardened steel is no joke. I've spent about $50 on drill bits trying to get through the easy out.

I don't weld, yet. I live in an apartment so no acid baths.

Yesterday, I order some carbide tipped drill bits for drilling through hardened steel. Please send out good wishes for me.

If you did eventually get the %&#!@ bolt out of your intake manifold, please let me know how.

Thanks,
S

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rspi
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Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
Location: Cincinnati OH
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Post by rspi »

Man, like Jimmy said, in less than 2 hours and $20 you can swap a junk yard intake manifold in. Stop killing yourselves.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

rugbygrrl_15
Posts: 33
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Year and Model: 98 S70 Base
Location: LA, USA
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Post by rugbygrrl_15 »

Ok, I'm game, I've thought about going that route too. I'm saving that course of action for last.

I've got one of the few non-turbo 98' S70 and I'm really concerned about buying the wrong intake manifold on eBay.
I've priced a couple candidates for about $100. I'm not against hiking up my skirts and picking a part at the junk yard, but t'arent any non-turbo in the LA area right now.
If anyone has a used intake manifold for a 98' S70 non-turbo in the LA county area they want to sell, hollar at me.

mikealder
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Post by mikealder »

JDS60R wrote:If you can submerge the entire manifold you can chemically remove the bolt from an aluminum manifold with hot water and "alum of potash"

Or

You can destroy the metal in an aluminum substrate with activated acid called tap-x . If you do not know how to handle and use acid safely please involve someone qualified to oversee your safety measures.
Any more details or links about how to do this would be most welcome as one of the ETM bolts sheared off in the inlet manifold on my "show" inlet, having spent around 100 hours polishing it (for no other reason than it gave me something to do when the in-laws came around through the winter nights).

I want to know if either of these processes will discolor the inlet manifold or simply dissolve what's left of the snapped bolt leaving everything else alone, this is the asset with the snapped bolt and it's a real shame it is sat on the bench in the garage:

Image

(The above was taken after about 50 hours work so only half finished) - Mike

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Any NA intake manifold from a '96 - '98 850 or S/V70 will work. I can pick one up for you tomorrow if you'd like. Send me a PM to let me know if you want my help.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

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