Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

skr · Post by **skr** » 04 May 2013, 16:32

Howdy all. I'm a long-time lurker who has found the information on this site to be absolutely invaluable for the last couple years, keeping my '96 850 NA wagon rolling (replaced front and rear shocks/struts, radiator, starter, PCV, driver's rear caliper, tank-to-injector fuel line, brake pads/rotors).

Now it's time to replace my passenger side rear trailing arm link. I tried ordering the end link tool from a couple places online but I guess they only have the tool up for show because I kept getting 'out of stock' replies after my order.

Well, I got tired of the clunk so I figured I'd give it a go today. Thanks to the write-up and tips on this page (especially grendel's drilling trick), I was able to get the unit off in about 2 hours, but now I've spent the last 3 hours trying to get the new one on and am at my wits end. There is no wiggle room to use Lee's hose clamp trick and no amount of whacking on it (either on the end) or on the black plastic with a drift is getting it to go. I'm worried about beveling the leading edge any further because I don't want to inadvertently create too much space between the link and the trailing arm.

Anyone have any ideas or am I just SOL and in need of The Tool?

skr · Post by **skr** » 12 May 2013, 21:29

FInished the job on Friday using the tool and the difference in my ride is ridiculous. All told, it took around 45 minutes to get all of the hardware back on the passenger side, including a fuel filter change. Infinite thanks to Matt for sending it so quickly!

Take away: I would never consider doing this job again without the tool.

Also, after a week of no response, one of the Volvo dealers in my area actually quoted me a price for the tool (instead of the refusals I got from the other 3). $127.73. No idea if they would have followed through though.

Post by **abscate** » 13 May 2013, 08:11

Is there a tool out there for 'forum rental' still or did that idea die?

Where is the best place to put the jackstands while you do this?

Also - I went ahead and purchased the Volvo tool to do this job. When I am done with it, I think I will start up a thread on here where we can just "sell it" to each other over and over. The other "rental" thread ended with someone not returning the tool - so perhaps just buying/reselling is the best way to get it around. That way, we end up paying $15 to use it

Simple fix - 250 USD paypal deposit until you return tool to the ToolKeeper

Post by **abscate** » 13 May 2013, 08:25

Sorry Matt, just caught your link to the tool sharing page, answering my own question.

Carry on, just ignore me..

Post by **matthew1** » 13 May 2013, 13:53

No problem. I'll have it back end of this week if you need it.

Post by **cn90** » 24 Jun 2013, 12:42

A couple of questions for for those of you who have replaced the link (Volvo PN 3516122):

1- At what mileage does your Support Arm Link go bad?

2- Which brand?
---> Volvo $165
---> Lemforder $124 (FCP Euro)
---> Febi-Bilstein $35

cjbmustang · Post by **cjbmustang** » 25 Jun 2013, 00:21

im not sure if mine had ever been replaced, but i replaced it at 282k or around there. i also had a trailing arm bushing that was in two pieces. my wandering sensation and clunking was gone. not sure which was the culprit, but i figured while i had it apart i was going to replace both pieces...good thing i ordered them

stheis · Post by **stheis** » 14 Aug 2013, 19:55

thanks for all the posts everyone. I tackled this last weekend and was successful using the drilling method on one side and melting the other side out as it just wouldn't budge without that. It really wasn't as bad as I was expecting it to be. The ride is noticeably better and I don't have that weird shift/clunk sound I would hear when turning at low speeds.

Anyways, the longest/most difficult individual step for me was fitting the new one in on the driver side. No matter how I tried to line it up, one side would pop out as I tried to tap the other in. I pretty much needed a third hand. What finally worked was putting a zip tie through the hole in the new part and on the Delta arm which held the new link in place and didn't let it pop out.

castconcrete · Post by **castconcrete** » 13 Sep 2013, 10:51

Hi Lee,

In your initial post you mentioned supporting the car on stands. When I am supporting the rear of the car on stands I usually place the stands under the trailing arm brackets which need to be removed for this project. Where did you place the stands when you did this project? Thanks.

Post by **xHeart** » 13 Sep 2013, 11:17

I have a photo somewhere after a feedback from MVS.
I find it safe to place the jack-stand under the chessis, the areas just in front of fuel filter, parallel with the footboard trim below the rear-door.

There is a close to 2" round rubber plug, or a hole, if the rubber collar has fallen-off.

castconcrete wrote:Hi Lee,

In your initial post you mentioned supporting the car on stands. When I am supporting the rear of the car on stands I usually place the stands under the trailing arm brackets which need to be removed for this project. Where did you place the stands when you did this project? Thanks.

Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

Re: Rear End Suspension Link Replacement