Beachbum and Ed7:
Thanks for the detailed explanation and also the pics. The tip about the torx bit was excellent. I too purchased a torx 60 bit but it was to long. I was ready to give up until I called the local Volvo dealer and they quoted me $706.00 to change out the alternator.
I searched for, but was unable to locate a Haynes manual and it does not appear that there is one for the S80.
Do either of you know if one exists and if so where can I purchase it?
I think with the details both of you provided I should be able to replace the alternator myself. I plan on keeping the car for a few more years and know I will be in need of some type of repair manual. Once I get the alternator repaired I need to work on the sun roof. Once the car hits 35 to 40 miles per hour I can hear the sunroof pop up a little and it gets a little noisy. I know the prior owner had problems as there was a receipt from the Volvo dealer but apparently they did not fix it properly. I think it is missing a part that holds the sunroof down. Anyway, that will be another project. I will be working on the alternator some time this week and will let you guys know of my progress. Thank you both again. I really appreciate your help. RIB
2001 S80 Tool for serpentine belt removal
Beachbum, Thanks again for your help. Where did you purchase the T-60 torx bit? The one I purchased was from Sears and it looks like it was made in a dye cast as it is one piece and would be impossible to break apart. I might be able to hax saw it but then I think I would have a problem getting something onto it to release the serpentine belt tension mechanism. RIB
PS: tried to send an e-mail but I do not think it went through.
PS: tried to send an e-mail but I do not think it went through.
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Beachbum
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 25 August 2010
- Year and Model: 2001 S80 2.9
- Location: Hillsborough, NJ USA
I think I bought the T-60 Torx bit socket at Pep Boys. I'm sure if you check there or some other auto parts stores you can find a "2 piece" Torx bit (mine was a 1/2" drive socket with the Torx bit jammed tight into it, but I just put it in a vise and banged it out with a hammer and punch. It came right out. Then I duct-taped the Torx bit into a regular depth 12mm 3/8" socket so it doesn't fall out when you turn it sideways and there is enough room to get in there with a long handled ratchet wrench (long handled for leverage, or a piece of pipe over your ratchet wrench will work, too 
Good luck!
Beachbum
Good luck!
Beachbum
- pkc303
- Posts: 600
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- Year and Model: 1995 T-5R Yellow
- Location: Houston, Texas
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Ok, it requires a torx bit to remove it. You can use it with a 3/8, or 1/4 rachet or breaker bar. I'm on my way to purchase one, but I know that the tight fit will require me to cut down the bit to fit in that space. On the phone with IPD, they don't have such a tool. I'll make one. If you are still having problems, I'll post pictures of what I make.
I highly recommend you do not unplug or mess with your black computer box. It is your ECU, and if it goes, the serpentine belt will no longer be a problem, nor will the alternator.
I highly recommend you do not unplug or mess with your black computer box. It is your ECU, and if it goes, the serpentine belt will no longer be a problem, nor will the alternator.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
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tridents65
- Posts: 69
- Joined: 31 March 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850, 2006 S-804
- Location: Blue Springs MO
I have an '06 S80 so I don't know if this will work for you or not. Here is what I did and it works great. Off and new one back on in 15-20 mins.
I went to Harbor Freight tools and bought an inexspensive sepentine belt romoval tool. The brand is Pittsburg. It comes as a kit; a long flat bar and a short flat bar. You will need the short one. It has a 1/2 in. square head on one end and a star shaped hole on the other. I used a 1/2 in. to 3/8 adapter socket. Attached to that I put a 3/8 in. Torxt 55 (star shape) I put this on to the torxt (hole?) on the belt tensioner with the bar pointed about straight up. Next I pushed the bar down (towards the front of the car). I was able to hold the bar in about a level position by placing it under a bracket for an AC line. Now your hands free to get the belt off. After it is off you have to remove the tool (and in doing so taking the tension off) so you can get the old belt out of the way and get the new belt started. Reset the tool, finish the install of the belt, and release and remove the tool. All done!
woops! should have read all the post first. Since you need a different sized torxt than what I used, we probable are not comparing apples to apples.
I went to Harbor Freight tools and bought an inexspensive sepentine belt romoval tool. The brand is Pittsburg. It comes as a kit; a long flat bar and a short flat bar. You will need the short one. It has a 1/2 in. square head on one end and a star shaped hole on the other. I used a 1/2 in. to 3/8 adapter socket. Attached to that I put a 3/8 in. Torxt 55 (star shape) I put this on to the torxt (hole?) on the belt tensioner with the bar pointed about straight up. Next I pushed the bar down (towards the front of the car). I was able to hold the bar in about a level position by placing it under a bracket for an AC line. Now your hands free to get the belt off. After it is off you have to remove the tool (and in doing so taking the tension off) so you can get the old belt out of the way and get the new belt started. Reset the tool, finish the install of the belt, and release and remove the tool. All done!
woops! should have read all the post first. Since you need a different sized torxt than what I used, we probable are not comparing apples to apples.
1965 Chevy C-10
1954 Chevy BelAir
1949 Plymouth P-18
1995 Volvo 850
2006 Volvo S80
2004 Grand Prix
1954 Chevy BelAir
1949 Plymouth P-18
1995 Volvo 850
2006 Volvo S80
2004 Grand Prix
Beachbum wrote:Oh, and here are instructions for removing the alternator. It's not hard. I replaced mine with a Bosch rebuilt for $200, you can find it cheaper on the internet. BTW, these instructions are a subset of instructions that I posted on VolvoForums.com for replacing the oil seals on the oil trap. But you have to remove the alternator to get to the oil trap.
1. Make sure car has been off for at least 5 minutes and remove negative battery cable.
2. Release tension on belt tensioner and remove serpentine belt off the alternator.
3. Unlatch and lift up the power steering reservoir. Do not remove any hoses.
4. Loosen (but do not remove yet) the metal hose on the power steering pump. Do not remove the rubber hose.
5. Remove the 3 bolts holding the power steering pump to the bracket (use a socket through the pulley holes).
6. Place a rag over the alternator to catch any drips, and now remove the metal hose from the pump. Don’t worry…the fluid will not gush out. Just maybe a few drips if any.
7. Place the power steering pump on top of the engine with the hole facing up. The fluid will not leak out. Cover it with a rag to keep dirt out.
8. Cover the end of the metal hose with a suitable rubber cap if you have one, or I just used a plastic sandwich bag with a rubber band. Tie the hose out of the way, toward the driver’s side. I used a small bungee cord which worked well.
9. Remove the 2 wires on the alternator. The small one just pulls out, the big one has a nut (pull off the plastic cap first). Move the wires out of the way.
10. Loosen (but do not remove) the 2 bolts on the bottom of the AC compressor. Back them out a few turns each.
11. Remove the 2 bolts on the top of the AC compressor. These 2 bolts also hold on the alternator.
12. Remove the one bolt at the top of the alternator (located near the pulley) and remove the alternator. I took it out on the left side of the radiator hose. You’ll have to turn it to get it out. You can also push on the radiator hose a bit to add clearance.
20. Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above. Torque value for the 4 long AC/alternator bolts, one bolt at top of alternator, and the 3 power steering bolts is 18 lbs. ft. (or 25 NM). And don’t forget to cover the alternator with a rag when you reconnect the power steering hose, to catch any drips. It’s best to reconnect the metal power steering hose fitting hand tight before you install the PS pump on the bracket. Then once the pump is fully installed you can tighten the nut securely.
21. Before reconnecting the negative battery cable, turn the key to the #2 position (II). Then reset the electrical system (sunroof, power door locks, etc.) by unlocking the car with either the key fob or the key.
Hope this is helpful. Good luck.
Beachbum
Just used these directions over the weekend to replace the alternator on our 2000 s80 (non turbo). I just wanted to say thanks for posting them up. My #2 mod helper pointed out to me that the directions between 12&20 were missing, but they weren't needed.
Anyway thanks again for posting these steps up...
dm
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Beachbum
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 25 August 2010
- Year and Model: 2001 S80 2.9
- Location: Hillsborough, NJ USA
Yes, steps 13-19 are omitted because they relate to replacing the oil trap seals and are not needed when just replacing the alternator. If you need to see that info see my complete post on VolvoForums.com.
Glad you found these instructions useful.
Beachbum
Glad you found these instructions useful.
Beachbum
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