Getting ready for the head tear down. Any tips?

[erikv11]

... If you have let's say 1 burned EXHAUST valve, do you replace only that valve or all 10?

This experiment has been conducted dozens of times, with great success. As stated by bags519: replace the burnt one, fix the cause, move on. This goes for performance builds or daily drivers.

[E Showell]

I was told, but I never probed for the reason, by anj experienced race engine builder, that you should always replace valves in sets. By that I mean if you have two exhaust valves in a cylinder and one has burned, then you should replace both exhaust valves in that cylinder. No need to replace valves in otherwise good cylinders.

I should have asked the rebuilder the logic behind his position at the time but I did not do so.

Anybody else?

[bags519]

Well here a good reason to quit when your getting tired..

Some how the gasket slipped on the bottom and shifted.. I bolt it down and boom instant cracked thermostat housing..

Off to the pic a part in the am.

I'm ready to button this up..

All I got left is the cam cover, timing belt, intake, fluids and get the VAC hoses back in order.

I'll get a video of it running if successful.

Its been a good project so far. But spent more time on the head than I would have liked.

But in the end I should be in for a grand total of $850-900 including the purchase price of the wagon so I'm feeling good.. it will be my catering/ hauling food mobile.

[rspi]

Grrr, always something. Mine cost us $850 last summer. I sent it to the shop to have it straightened and valve stems done. That was $435.

[bags519]

OK guys new twist... I got an oil leak..

The cars running perfect from that stand point..

However, I sprung an oil leak that I am hoping is not anything to to do with the head gasket..

I have no apparent coolant loss or pressure.

Here's the deal I can not see where it coming from exactly. What below the exhaust manifold above the turbo would have the ability to spray oil under throttle? That is the only time I can get it to appear, it hits the exhaust and turbo and starts smoking.

I couldn't get a mirror and light in there where I could see anything.

Thanks Bags

[bags519]

OK, negative on the any oil or combustion gas in coolant. Did the test this morning.

Compression test is next.

Is cracked block possible? Is there anything else before I tear the exhaust manifold off to get a better view, that I should be considering?

[abscate]

There are oil lines that run to the turbo with banjo connections (Copper washers) that return oil to the block. A split in the line or leaking washer would do it.

There is also an oil cooler mounted low on the block, starboard side with cooling hoses attached too. If that split, that could also spray oil.

Im assuming your S70 mirrors my V70...

[bags519]

Thanks, my problem today was not having a second set if hands, I need to get under it and have gas throttled to get to see whats going on..

Its just very frustrating, did everything by the book.

I'm just hoping its on the the items you mentioned.. I don't know if have the time to tear it down again... if not lots of good parts to offer you guys.


I'll keep you updated

[Ozark Lee]

What kind of anaerobic sealer did you use to put the cam cover back on?

I wouldn't anticipate a new leak that wasn't somehow related to the head gasket change but the number of parts that need to come off to do the job are, as you know, many.

Did you remove the turbo and the exhaust manifold or just take the nuts off and push it back out of the way?

I replaced all of the copper banjo bolt seals on the turbo oil and coolant lines when I replaced the engine in the XC and the turbo on the Platinum thinking that reusing the old ones would be a great source for a leak.

...Lee

[bags519]

Lee,

I used the Victor Reinz chemical gasket. On that note, pretty sure its a good seal, I got nothing hitting the manifold and burning off. The leak is not seen looking from above and it hits a spray around 3k and above rpm. At that point some oil hits the the exhaust flange and the flex and smokes.

When dismantling I took everything off including the turbo. Reassembly I put the turbo and exhaust manifold back on and pushed back. I suppose I could have stressed a line moving the exhaust manifold back when installing gaskets. I had it held with a wood wedge while getting the gaskets in place.

But is there pressure on the oil heading into the turbo, I was of the understanding that the oil return flow from the head to the turbo, and then oil return was more or less just gravity feed.

The copper crush washers I did use the old ones but cleaned surfaces and heated them to bring back softness in the metal.

I am toast for time until Sunday, but will dig back into it then. The engine itself is running strong and quiet.

Thanks for your input I appreciate everybody's input , Bags