1993 240 wagon dead spot around 60 mph, losing power up hill

[White240wagon]

Hi.

I have a 1993 Volvo 240 wagon. I bought it about a year ago and have been slowly trying to get it running properly. At some point, there was an engine fire, which seemed to have caused various items to become overheated.

Originally, it had a rough idle, stalled a few times and was generally underperforming, especially on hills. Now, after doing what is mentioned below, it idles well and performs better, but it has a fairly prominent dead spot between 55-70 and doesn't pull up hills well.

I changed the oxygen sensor with a positive effect. Changed the air mass meter with no effect. Changed the intake manifold gasket with no effect. Fixed a vacuum leak, which helped the rough idle. Changed the plug wires, which helped overall performance. Changed the coil, with no effect.

Any advice?

[Jpawww]

Three things to check that I can think of.
#1 Fuel pressure regulator, it's that the end of the fuel rail. If when you pull the vacuum hose it smells of fuel, it's gone bad.
#2 one of the two fuel pumps or the fuel pump relay. The relay is below the glove box knocker cover its white. Take it off, open it gently and look for signs of heat distress. This is unlikely but it's a $20 problem that I've seen a lot.
#2a) fuel pumps - easy check - start the car and listen below the rear drivers side door. Repeat after a longer trip. Smell for fuel. If present may be filter or pump or line leaking.
2b) harder check - open the gas cap. slowly disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Place a catch container and rag to absorb the fuel that will leak out. Make sure it a plastic that is fuel tolerant. Place your thumb over the fuel line. Place your hand in the jar, have an assistant crank a few times, you should not be able to hold the pressure easily. Official testing is done with a kit from autozone on the output of the filter using a banjo interrupt connector.
2c) in tank pump test, highly likely since problem is on a hill - hard to say what way is best but the main fuel pump needs to be disconnected either by dropping the pump filter rack, or some removal and shorting of fuses that I never understood. Remove the carpet from the trunk using the fake plastic screws. On the higher portion you should see a silver cover with 2 lines running in to it. Open the cover. Directly below should be the top of the gas tank with 3 ports on top of a locking screw cap. The middle one is the output. Remove he line connected here and place a jar run off collector below. Jack the car at the rear driver side point(remembering to be the way to move most fuel away from pump...) have an assistant move the key to II while you look at the output, should be plentiful. If not lower the jack and repeat. If nothing still. You may have found your problem. Always replace both pumps and always go Bosch. (At least that's been my unfortunate experience).

[White240wagon]

Thanks for the suggestions!! I will let you know how it goes.

[rgk]

You can check for operation of the in-tank pump by listening for a humming either below the luggage compartment or by opening the fuel filler cap and listening there. The main pump is located under the car in front of the rear driver's side wheel and you can listen for its operation there. Some people say that you can listen for the hum by turning the key to "On," but my pumps have always only worked once the engine has been cranked.

However, even if you hear the pump(s) working, that does not mean that the filters are not clogged.

You have a standard filter located either next to the main pump or in the engine compartment. The in-tank pump comes with its own special sock filter that tends to disintegrate over time and clog up the fuel system. And, of course, the pumps themselves burn up, especially if the car is driven for a long time with low fuel - the fuel helps cool and lubricate the pump.

Opening the fuel tank access cover underneath the luggage compartment is tricky, but not impossible. You can get a special tool at IPD or FCP, or open it yourself by crafting a chisel out of brass. I made one by browsing the plumbing department at my local hardware store. Be sure to use brass so that you don't create a spark by hammering on a steel chisel and start another fire. That would be more like an explosion. Look through my posts for more details on this.

In regards to your original question, are your gears shifting properly and are you shifting into overdrive?

[White240wagon]

Turns out it was the in-tank pump. Replaced it today and now she's bounding along like a cheetah. Well, almost. Thanks for all the help!