DIM failure on 02 V70T5 Any options?
Re: DIM failure on 02 V70T5 Any options?
I just had the DIM on my 2004 V70 refurbished by Xemodex in Ontario , Canada. They charge $350 for the rebuild plus shipping. I went with the express shipping and had the part back in two days (from Southern Cal!). They replace all the lights in the module too and guarantee their work for life. It takes about five minutes to remove and replace the DIM. Sure beats the $1400 dealer price, and my local Volvo shop reset the SRS warning light for free. I saved at least $800.
I have the same problem with my dash, the gauges drop out. understand that it has something to do with the solder at the socket for one of the chips. I can push on my trip odometer reset and that will get the dash back up and working, but it just happens again. Everything still functions, blinker, highbeams, even the clock shows the correct time when it comes back on. I just use my GPS for speed.
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coflynn
- Posts: 174
- Joined: 18 June 2009
- Year and Model: 2002 S60 AWD
- Location: halifax, NS
- Been thanked: 6 times
Hello,
1. Locate someone with equipment suitable to remove & replace 'TQFP ICs'. They don't actually need to remove/replace, but unless they have equipment capable of doing that, they might screw up something. This would normally mean hot air + stereo microscope. You could look up local 'hackerspaces' (hackerspaces.org/wiki/), which would be a source of people who might know how to do this cheaply. Otherwise drop/call a few repair shops, the equipment isn't terrible expensive so some will have it.
2. Remove DIM, and remove PCB from DIM. Use various guides from around net.
3. Clean up the stuff around ICs as described in other guides too, you want to make this as easy as possible. Or at least bring required solvents for them to use, they may not have that on hand.
4. Print out all the useful information you can find & bring it to whoever is doing repair, it will help them understand which parts typically fail. Basically they just need to reflow certain solder joints which often fail, normally just add some flux & reheat those.
Regards,
-Colin
PS: I would estimate this way would get away with between $30-$100 in repair cost. There is a chance of damaging the DIM beyond repair though, as if someone claims to be competent in such soldering but is not, they could easily make the problem worse. Balance the cost/time/risk out between the options (DIY, replace with used unit, fix at Xemodex, new from dealer) and pick your fav.
It's almost certainly a solder-joint problem. If you want to fix very cheaply, you could find someone who is capable of reflowing the board locally. To do so you would need to:I can push on my trip odometer reset and that will get the dash back up and working
1. Locate someone with equipment suitable to remove & replace 'TQFP ICs'. They don't actually need to remove/replace, but unless they have equipment capable of doing that, they might screw up something. This would normally mean hot air + stereo microscope. You could look up local 'hackerspaces' (hackerspaces.org/wiki/), which would be a source of people who might know how to do this cheaply. Otherwise drop/call a few repair shops, the equipment isn't terrible expensive so some will have it.
2. Remove DIM, and remove PCB from DIM. Use various guides from around net.
3. Clean up the stuff around ICs as described in other guides too, you want to make this as easy as possible. Or at least bring required solvents for them to use, they may not have that on hand.
4. Print out all the useful information you can find & bring it to whoever is doing repair, it will help them understand which parts typically fail. Basically they just need to reflow certain solder joints which often fail, normally just add some flux & reheat those.
Regards,
-Colin
PS: I would estimate this way would get away with between $30-$100 in repair cost. There is a chance of damaging the DIM beyond repair though, as if someone claims to be competent in such soldering but is not, they could easily make the problem worse. Balance the cost/time/risk out between the options (DIY, replace with used unit, fix at Xemodex, new from dealer) and pick your fav.
if its the DIM (For sure)
you can easily send out your cluster to get repaired for under $200. I just did it. Go to Ebay and lookup seller euro-electric. They give you easy instructions on how to pop out your panel, mail it to them and they ship it back fixed 1 2 3. Dont do like I did and wait for years and trying everything under the sun.
There are other sellers that seem more expensive out there.
or can search.
"VOLVO INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPAIR". If you dont want to use ebay
you can just call them. 866 281 2414.
No I dont work there i just used their service and boy I wish i knew about it earlier
you can easily send out your cluster to get repaired for under $200. I just did it. Go to Ebay and lookup seller euro-electric. They give you easy instructions on how to pop out your panel, mail it to them and they ship it back fixed 1 2 3. Dont do like I did and wait for years and trying everything under the sun.
There are other sellers that seem more expensive out there.
or can search.
"VOLVO INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPAIR". If you dont want to use ebay
you can just call them. 866 281 2414.
No I dont work there i just used their service and boy I wish i knew about it earlier
- Smarzig
02 S60T 17"rims
02 S60T 17"rims
Since turn-around times for DIM rebuilders are typically 5 days to a week, let me ask a dumb question.
Can the car be operated without a DIM installed, or will that screw something else up? Some posters say turning the ignition on while the DIM is disconnected will give an SRS Service message, but I have that already. At least one of the rebuilders says if I have a SRS message it will have to be reset anyway. It runs when the DIM is dead. Will it run for a few days without one while I'm waiting for my rebuilt DIM to come back?
2003 S-60 P2
Can the car be operated without a DIM installed, or will that screw something else up? Some posters say turning the ignition on while the DIM is disconnected will give an SRS Service message, but I have that already. At least one of the rebuilders says if I have a SRS message it will have to be reset anyway. It runs when the DIM is dead. Will it run for a few days without one while I'm waiting for my rebuilt DIM to come back?
2003 S-60 P2
- bojified
- Posts: 19
- Joined: 15 February 2010
- Year and Model: 2003 XC70, 2004 S80
- Location: Iowa City
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 2 times
I just replaced mine with a xemodex pre-rebuilt unit for my wife's 2003 XC70. Started with the clock counting up and up and up. Then DIM would just go dead- blank. No rhyme or reason as to when- warm or cold. The method I chose is more expensive (pre-rebuilt which is $100 more than sending in your old unit for rebuild and instead you switch the units out and then send them the dead core) but they send you a completely rebuilt unit with the correct software for your car as you give them the VIN. Mileage comes from another computer so odometer shows correctly from initial start-up. My SRS had set a code which happens when the SRS system is looking for the SRS light and it is dead (because DIM has no power) so sets the code which has to be then reset by VIDAS. We have a very good independent service garage here in Iowa City and they reset the SRS for $20. If you read through the forums there are some who have tried the self solder method and from the ones I saw (I am sure I did not see all) they eventually did not succeed. Yes the xemodex system is expensive and I went with the more expensive pre-built d/t time crunch. But literally from opening the box to coming back in the house with dead DIM was 20 minutes- wife said "Is that all". Flawless and good peace of mind.
2004 S80 Wife's daily driver. Still have, 2003 XC70 T Daily Driver. Still have, 1997 854 Kept going for daughter, 1992 944 - Diplomat Delivery, 1997 855, 1989 744 saved my life!, 1987 744 T, 1988 780 BERTONE, 1988 765 T, 1987 744 T, 1981 244 DSL, 1974 164, 1976 265 PVR, 1981 264 GLE, 1971 145 DL, 1976 245 DL
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
- Joined: 28 January 2009
- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
- Location: Atlanta, GA
- Has thanked: 7 times
- Been thanked: 78 times
SnowOwl,
If you are prepared to spend some bucks, the Xemodex option is probably the way to go. They're prompt, helpful, and my understanding is that they replace some of the components with more robust versions that in some ways make the DIM "better than new".
But if money is an issue (in my case it always is) there's another option. I went this route. If your DIM is currently out of the car, call Southern Vo-vo in South Carolina and tell him the model and year car you have. He will have you read off certain numbers on the back of the DIM so that he can match up one that will be "keyed" to your car. They may have one and they may not - it's a crap shoot but doesn't hurt to try. I went this route a couple years ago and it worked like a charm. I paid about $115 including shipping and it came with some nominal warranty like 12 months. I believe Erie Volvo is another scrapper that may have one also. One drawback - in my case the odometer retained the mileage from the donor car rather than acquiring the actual mileage from my car. But for the difference in price I was more than happy to make that notation in my maintenance records so that I can track the Timing belt interval, etc.
You may not want to go this route, but I thought I'd just throw it on the table as another option. Oh and BTW - I did start the car to move it around the driveway with no DIM in it and yes, it triggered the SRS light. Fortunately my local Volvo independent shop had the equipment to clear to code for about $30.
If you are prepared to spend some bucks, the Xemodex option is probably the way to go. They're prompt, helpful, and my understanding is that they replace some of the components with more robust versions that in some ways make the DIM "better than new".
But if money is an issue (in my case it always is) there's another option. I went this route. If your DIM is currently out of the car, call Southern Vo-vo in South Carolina and tell him the model and year car you have. He will have you read off certain numbers on the back of the DIM so that he can match up one that will be "keyed" to your car. They may have one and they may not - it's a crap shoot but doesn't hurt to try. I went this route a couple years ago and it worked like a charm. I paid about $115 including shipping and it came with some nominal warranty like 12 months. I believe Erie Volvo is another scrapper that may have one also. One drawback - in my case the odometer retained the mileage from the donor car rather than acquiring the actual mileage from my car. But for the difference in price I was more than happy to make that notation in my maintenance records so that I can track the Timing belt interval, etc.
You may not want to go this route, but I thought I'd just throw it on the table as another option. Oh and BTW - I did start the car to move it around the driveway with no DIM in it and yes, it triggered the SRS light. Fortunately my local Volvo independent shop had the equipment to clear to code for about $30.
SnowOwl wrote:Since turn-around times for DIM rebuilders are typically 5 days to a week, let me ask a dumb question.
Can the car be operated without a DIM installed, or will that screw something else up? Some posters say turning the ignition on while the DIM is disconnected will give an SRS Service message, but I have that already. At least one of the rebuilders says if I have a SRS message it will have to be reset anyway. It runs when the DIM is dead. Will it run for a few days without one while I'm waiting for my rebuilt DIM to come back?
2003 S-60 P2
Yes, you can drive, but then you will have to lock unlock the doors manually.
BTW I had mine soldiered by a cell phone repairman for 30 $
That was 2 years ago... It went dead again couple of ago. I'll have to go and see that guy again!
.
S60 2002 180K miles looks and runs like new (except when sulking)
For whatever its worth, if my 2006 V50 T5 has a similar wiring schematic, its DIM was totally nonfunctional with the exception of the "check engine" light. I found the white plug on the back of the screen for the radio stations/ heater/ AC temps was loose. After I plugged it in securely, the instrument panel gauges came back to life with its illumination. So, with this, if there's no current going to the white plug that goes there or possibly a fault in the display screen, that could be the culprit instead of an expensive DIM.
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