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Timing Belt Recommendation

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Water Pump Replacement 2002 S60 N/A
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covert24
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Volvo Repair Database Timing Belt Recommendation

Post by covert24 »

Alright so I have a 2002 S60 N/A with 187k on the clock and am looking to replace my timing belt. It doesn't look like a hard job and the only things that it looks like I need to watch out for is the timing marks and the tensioner adjustment. Everything else looks pretty straight forward. I am not the original owner but it looks like the t-belt was replaced at the recommended 105k per the Volvo sticker on the ecu.

Now, I'm looking at the contitech timing belt kit that comes with the water pump as well but there seems to be two different part numbers.

There is the TB331LK2 and the TB331LK1. Which one do I need?!

Thanks in advance!
-Billy

Magnus308
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Post by Magnus308 »

There is 2 different versions of tensioners in the kits, If you have a 2002 then you probably have the old version of tensioner (I think the change was in 2004)
So you should have the kit named LK1 with the old tensioner.

On this picture you can see the 2 versions of tensioners and they are NOT interchangeable with eachother.
To the left is the new version of tensioner and to the right is the old version that you probably have.
Image

If you want be sure which tensioner you have you can remove the top cover over your timing belt and check with a flashligt.
The tensioner is located between the 2 camshaft sprockets and 30cm down
Image

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

On the second timing belt(TB) replacement you should as replace the

Tensioner
Pulley
Water pump

As these items all impact the TB operation. Remove the TB cover (upper and lower) and check the weep hole on the water pump to see if it is wet at all.

If you aren't driving more than 15k a year, you are still a year from the replace interval. Putting 1000 USD repair into a 2000 USD car is something to think about.

I'll let the VIDA guys answer your part number question
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covert24
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Post by covert24 »

Magnus308 wrote:There is 2 different versions of tensioners in the kits, If you have a 2002 then you probably have the old version of tensioner (I think the change was in 2004)
So you should have the kit named LK1 with the old tensioner.

On this picture you can see the 2 versions of tensioners and they are NOT interchangeable with eachother.
To the left is the new version of tensioner and to the right is the old version that you probably have.
Image

If you want be sure which tensioner you have you can remove the top cover over your timing belt and check with a flashligt.
The tensioner is located between the 2 camshaft sprockets and 30cm down
Image
Yea I plan on replacing all components of the timing system. Belt (obviously :) ), tensioner, idler, and water pump. Also need to replace the serp tensioner as the bearing is a little loose on the pulley. I'll look today and see what version of the tensioner I have. Like you said its probably version 1 as its an 02.

I appreciate the info!!
abscate wrote:On the second timing belt(TB) replacement you should as replace the

Tensioner
Pulley
Water pump

As these items all impact the TB operation. Remove the TB cover (upper and lower) and check the weep hole on the water pump to see if it is wet at all.

If you aren't driving more than 15k a year, you are still a year from the replace interval. Putting 1000 USD repair into a 2000 USD car is something to think about.

I'll let the VIDA guys answer your part number question
I'm not sure what you mean by 1000$ repair into a 2000$ car. I don't let the anyone other then myself work on my cars. All work is done by yours truly so the money for the parts is the only cost. Other than my time of course but from what I have been reading/watching, it isn't as difficult as people make it seem.

I assure you guys I can turn a wrench ;)

JRL
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Post by JRL »

Or....just give your VIN to Volvo parts and they will give you the correct tensioner
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

covert24
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Post by covert24 »

Just got back from checking and I do indeed have version one. Although I briefly looked at the cam gears, I didn't see any markings on them to indicate where tdc should be in correlation with the plastic cover. I'll have to take another look when its light out. Found a good deal on a contitech kit w/ water pump for my version so I will most likely be ordering that in the near future.

JRL
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Post by JRL »

Make your own marks
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

covert24
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Post by covert24 »

I'll look into that. Quick question though. I know most people don't use one when they change the timing belt out but is there a can locking tool available that will work with our engines? I'm talking a universal one, not the crazy expensive Volvo branded one.

Magnus308
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Year and Model: S60 2,5T 2005
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Post by Magnus308 »

covert24 wrote:I'll look into that. Quick question though. I know most people don't use one when they change the timing belt out but is there a can locking tool available that will work with our engines? I'm talking a universal one, not the crazy expensive Volvo branded one.
Cam locking tool is just a waste of money you have absolutely no need for it.

When you have factory marks on the cam sprockets and the crank pulley lined up then you make your own marks on each sprocket and the belt before you remove it.
When you have removed your belt then just transfer the marks from the old belt to the exact same tooth on the new belt.
When you install the new belt according to your own marks on the sprockets it will be exactly as the old belt was installed so no worry to have it one tooth off or something.

I really recommend that you have a impact gun when you remove the center nut on the crankpulley, A cheap electrical one will be just fine.
Use it also for the 4 bolts on the crankpulley.

http://youtu.be/IK_zH8g8Fow

covert24
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Post by covert24 »

Been trying to find the best deal on the components I'm going to need to replace and it seems that fcpeuro has the best deal in terms of quality and price. I'm thinking of getting the GMB "Minor" timing component kit which contains a gmb idler, gmb tensioner, and a conti belt for around 85 bux. Will also pick up a hepu pump for around 60 bux. Also thinking of getting a new radiator petcock just in case I snap mine in half when I flush the coolant.

What my question is with the quality of the GMB components. The reviews if the kit are all positive but I was under the impression the GMB wasn't that great. Just wanted to get a little feedback from you guys or if anyone has used these parts. They also have a GMB water pump that is 20 or so dollars less then the Hepu. Just want some advice and part choice. Thanks guys!

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