S90 Drive Cycle Could Not Be Completed
MVS » Volvo Repair Database » Emissions System, EVAP, Air Pump, O2 Sensors, Catalytic Convertor, SAS » S90 Drive Cycle Could Not Be Completed
Mizclark06 writes in the MVS Volvo Forum about the exception her Volvo S90 got from emissions testing:
“My S90 drive cycle could not be completed. I tried for more than 2 months with over 2000 miles logged. I thought this would cost me hundreds to get fixed, but took a chance & ran it through the emissions station in Mesa AZ.
Failed! I talked to the supervisor and after some discussion she said ‘Oh this is a Volvo!’
She then leafed through a loose leaf binder and informed me, ‘All 1996-’98 Volvos may have difficulty completing the drive cycle and will be unable to be tested.’
She then asked me to pay a second $27.50 (since I had gone beyond the 60 free retest time frame) and told me to pull into the 4th bay.
Once there, they scanned my door label and then gave me a passing certificate. No additional testing was done.”
Volvo 960 & passing state emissions inspection
Related Posts
1.Drive Cycle For Readiness
2.How to Complete a Volvo Drive Cycle
3.1999 S70 vs. California Emissions Test
4.Transmission Slow to Shift Into Drive
5.Front wheel bearing/drive shaft
This entry was posted in Emissions System, EVAP, Air Pump, O2 Sensors, Catalytic Convertor, SAS, Volvo 940, 960, S90 & V90 and tagged drive cycle, emissions test, S90, V90. Bookmark the permalink.
4 Responses to S90 Drive Cycle Could Not Be Completed
Adam says:
September 7, 2012 at 8:25 pm
Thank you! I just got my ’96 960 registered using this. Went to the same one I assume (Dobson and main) went up to the desk before going in, went through the book, and gave me a passing cert after only checking for a CEL and testing gas cap. Deleted CEL in parking lot before I went in too, lol. I love loopholes
Charles Jr says:
January 23, 2013 at 9:57 pm
It seems to me that you are saying that because All 1996-’98 Volvos may have difficulty completing the drive cycle and will be unable to be tested.’it is legal for state inspection stations to merely scan my door label and then give me a passing certificate. No additional testing needed.”
I am asking becuase my 1998 volvo S90has a check engine lite on that I am trying to remove prior to inspection. But! if it is standard procedure for the inspection stations to to merely scan my door label and then give me a passing certificate. No additional testing needed than The Stations I’ve gone to should have informed me. So my next question to you is,is this a national procedure for all fifty states?
If so? Do you where can I find the legal documentation on this
Volvo 960 & passing state emissions inspection
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Charles Jr
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 23 January 2013
- Year and Model: Volvo 1998
- Location: AUSTIN, TX
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Charles Jr
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 23 January 2013
- Year and Model: Volvo 1998
- Location: AUSTIN, TX
Charles Jr wrote: Hi I'm Charles Jr. and the following information are qoute from "S90 Drive Cycle Could Not Be Completed * "MVS » Volvo Repair Database » Emissions System, EVAP, Air Pump, O2 Sensors, Catalytic Convertor, SAS » S90 Drive Cycle Could Not Be Completed' by: Mizclark06, and her replyer Adam.y question begins after their original communications thank you.
Mizclark06 writes in the MVS Volvo Forum about the exception her Volvo S90 got from emissions testing:
“My S90 drive cycle could not be completed. I tried for more than 2 months with over 2000 miles logged. I thought this would cost me hundreds to get fixed, but took a chance & ran it through the emissions station in Mesa AZ.
Failed! I talked to the supervisor and after some discussion she said ‘Oh this is a Volvo!’
She then leafed through a loose leaf binder and informed me, ‘All 1996-’98 Volvos may have difficulty completing the drive cycle and will be unable to be tested.’
She then asked me to pay a second $27.50 (since I had gone beyond the 60 free retest time frame) and told me to pull into the 4th bay.
Once there, they scanned my door label and then gave me a passing certificate. No additional testing was done.”
Volvo 960 & passing state emissions inspection
Related Posts
1.Drive Cycle For Readiness
2.How to Complete a Volvo Drive Cycle
3.1999 S70 vs. California Emissions Test
4.Transmission Slow to Shift Into Drive
5.Front wheel bearing/drive shaft
This entry was posted in Emissions System, EVAP, Air Pump, O2 Sensors, Catalytic Convertor, SAS, Volvo 940, 960, S90 & V90 and tagged drive cycle, emissions test, S90, V90. Bookmark the permalink.
4 Responses to S90 Drive Cycle Could Not Be Completed
Adam says:
September 7, 2012 at 8:25 pm
Thank you! I just got my ’96 960 registered using this. Went to the same one I assume (Dobson and main) went up to the desk before going in, went through the book, and gave me a passing cert after only checking for a CEL and testing gas cap. Deleted CEL in parking lot before I went in too, lol. I love loopholes
Charles Jr says:
January 23, 2013 at 9:57 pm
It seems to me that you are saying that because All 1996-’98 Volvos may have difficulty completing the drive cycle and will be unable to be tested.’it is legal for state inspection stations to merely scan my door label and then give me a passing certificate. No additional testing needed.”
I am asking becuase my 1998 volvo S90has a check engine lite on that I am trying to remove prior to inspection. But! if it is standard procedure for the inspection stations to to merely scan my door label and then give me a passing certificate. No additional testing needed than The Stations I’ve gone to should have informed me. So my next question to you is,is this a national procedure for all fifty states?
If so? Do you where can I find the legal documentation on this
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abscate
- MVS Moderator
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There is no national emission testing policy in the US. It is regulated at both the state and county level. In NY, not being able to complete the ready to test cycle will fail your inspection.
While its popularist to decry emission regs on auto forums, our air quality our children breathe is substantially better than earlier generations.
While its popularist to decry emission regs on auto forums, our air quality our children breathe is substantially better than earlier generations.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
Can you tell me what is the procedure for insepcting my 93' 940 ? I have the old OBD I so I'm assuming you will have to do the tailpipe test on mine?MySwedishParts wrote:Alternately, you could stop in our shop in Richardson, just before you get to plano on 75. Our inspection techs have 30+ years with Volvo, and if it's to be known, they know it.
Just an option.
98’ S70 T5 Turbo Manual - Midnight
01' S60 T5 Turbo- Brandy
98' V70 T5 Turbo - Swifty
93’ 244 n/a - Mr.Chill
91' 940 SE Turbo - Mojo SOLD
83' 242 DL - Bluto SOLD
93' 940 Wagon - Django - SOLD
01' S60 T5 Turbo- Brandy
98' V70 T5 Turbo - Swifty
93’ 244 n/a - Mr.Chill
91' 940 SE Turbo - Mojo SOLD
83' 242 DL - Bluto SOLD
93' 940 Wagon - Django - SOLD
AaronSales wrote:In Arizona, the Drive Cycle for the my S90 could not be completed. I tried for more than 2 months with over 2000
miles logged. I thought this would cost me hundreds to get fixed, but took a chance & ran it through the emissions
station in Mesa AZ. Failed! I talked to the supervisor and after some discussion she said "Oh this is a Volvo!" She then leafed
through a loose leaf binder and informed me that "All '96-'98" Volvos may have difficulty completing the drive cycle and will be
unable to be tested" She then asked me to pay a second $27.50 (since I had gone beyond the 60 free retest time frame)
and told me to pull into the 4th bay. Once there, they scanned my door label and then gave me a passing certificate.
No additional testing was done. Thank goodness, I got my car licensed! This may apply to other states but I don't know.
It might help some of you in Arizona.
WOW!. I will be looking out for this coming up in May since I have a 98' T598’ S70 T5 Turbo Manual - Midnight
01' S60 T5 Turbo- Brandy
98' V70 T5 Turbo - Swifty
93’ 244 n/a - Mr.Chill
91' 940 SE Turbo - Mojo SOLD
83' 242 DL - Bluto SOLD
93' 940 Wagon - Django - SOLD
01' S60 T5 Turbo- Brandy
98' V70 T5 Turbo - Swifty
93’ 244 n/a - Mr.Chill
91' 940 SE Turbo - Mojo SOLD
83' 242 DL - Bluto SOLD
93' 940 Wagon - Django - SOLD
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AaronSales
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 7 September 2012
- Year and Model: S90 1998
- Location: Arizona USA
I went to get my 98 S90 smogged. Failed 1st time due to P0455 vacuum leak. Fixed it and reset the OBDII. Went back 2 more times after doing a modified drive cycle, both times they said the OBDII was not ready. Couldn't read anything. Contacted Volvo USA customer service and they sent me the 8 page instructions from the Service Manual. Below is what I did to get almost all of my OBDII codes to read OK (according to AutoZone - I'll take it to the Smog Station on Tuesday & let you know if I Don't pass)
1: The most important thing to do 1st is do a "Flywheel Adaption" reset. This is easy. While your driving and there is no one behind you put the car in either 3rd or Low and speed up to 3000 - 3500 RPMs then take your foot all the way off the gas and coast to around 1500 - 2000 RPMs. Do this a bunch of times. I did it 10 - 12 times in Low and then 10 - 12 time in 3rd on the freeway. I even did it a couple of times in Drive on the freeway, getting up to around 80 and coasting down to around 50.
I did this over a 3 day period. I did it a lot because I don't have any electronic instruments to tell me if I've completed this step or not. If this doesn't get reset then doing the drive cycle is worthless.
The next steps you should do on a subsequent day.
Preliminaries: Gas tank should be between 1/4 & 3/4 full. All accelerations should be gradual, no jack rabbit starts, pretend there's a ripe tomato between your foot and the gas pedal. Try to keep your throttle position as constant as is reasonable. I had a little variation, but again, all adjustments to keep speed were very gradual. Braking should also be very gradual. A/C must be off during the idling periods. I had the A/C off the entire time & I should have had it on at least while I was doing the freeway part. DO NOT TURN OFF THE CAR UNTIL THE ENTIRE DRIVE CYCLE IS COMPLETED. Otherwise you will have to start the Drive Cycle over from the beginning.
Must start the drive cycle with a cool engine, between 84 & 112 degrees. I'm in Phoenix so my car is at least 84 in the morning, you may have to idle your car for a minute or so if the temperature is pretty cold in your area.
Drive Cycle:
A- Drive city streets trying to stay around 35 mph (in Drive) and having as few stops as possible. Accelerate gradually after a stop. I started at 5 am on a Sunday, little traffic which was helpful.
DO THIS FOR 6 MINUTES and then park somewhere and idle for about 90 seconds. Turn off the A/C while idling.
B- Do A again.
If you are going to use a freeway for the part C below, try to end up very near the freeway on ramp. Park somewhere and idle for 2 - 3 minutes ( I did 3 minutes).
C- Speed up to around 55 - 60 mph in Drive ( 1800 - 2200 rpm's) and try to keep the throttle position as constant as possible. You may want to turn your A/C on. OK for the speed and RPMs to vary a little but try to keep as constant as you can. Do this for 5 minutes. Pull over, turn off the A/C while idling and stop for 2 - 3 minutes (I did 3 minutes). I pulled on to the shoulder of the freeway. When stopping I used the brakes very gently, taking a long way to stop, probably about a 1/4 mile.
D- After the 2 - 3 minutes repeat C for 5 more minutes. Pull over and stop for 90 seconds
remembering to turn off the A/C while you're stopped.
E- Now GENTLY accelerate until your RPM's are between 1800 - 2000 in Drive, but try not to go higher than that while you're accelerating, don't worry if it's a little over, and then coast to a stop. It's OK to VERY GENTLY brake to help to slow down but the coasting is an important part of the cycle so we don't want to cut it short. Repeat this for a total of 5 times. If you're on the freeway, try to end up on or near an off ramp. When you come to a stop, idle (with A/C off) for 2 - 3 minutes.
If you had an OBDII reader you could check to see if this completed the Drive cycle. I did not have one
so...
F- Go back to step A and do the whole thing again.
When you finish the 5th "coast to a stop" part of E, idle for 2-3 minutes and the go to the next step G.
You can do this next step in 3rd or like I did, in Drive. MPH's refer to what I did but the RPM's are what are important.
G- Accelerate to 55 - 60 mph (1800 - 2200 RPMs) in Drive and drive for 2 minutes.
H- Accelerate to 85 mph (3000 - 3500 RPMs.) for 30 seconds then coast back to 55 - 60.
I- Maintain the 55 - 60 mph for 2 more minutes then repeat H for 30 seconds.
J- Coast down to 65 - 70 mph (2300 - 2500 RPM's) and drive for 2 minutes.
That should do it. I drove immediately to an AutoZone & they were able to see that almost all the codes were reading ready & OK. If this had not worked I would have gone back to the very beginning with the Flywheel Adaption Reset.
The Local Volvo Dealer guys want $360 to $400 to do this for you. I asked if they would check to see if my Flywheel Adaption was ready, but they would not. A non dealer Volvo repair shop said they would do that for me, & had this not worked that would have been my next step. They would have charged $300 to do this entire procedure but would have checked the Flywheel reading for free. It took every bit of an hour and a half.
I hope this is helpful to somebody.
1: The most important thing to do 1st is do a "Flywheel Adaption" reset. This is easy. While your driving and there is no one behind you put the car in either 3rd or Low and speed up to 3000 - 3500 RPMs then take your foot all the way off the gas and coast to around 1500 - 2000 RPMs. Do this a bunch of times. I did it 10 - 12 times in Low and then 10 - 12 time in 3rd on the freeway. I even did it a couple of times in Drive on the freeway, getting up to around 80 and coasting down to around 50.
I did this over a 3 day period. I did it a lot because I don't have any electronic instruments to tell me if I've completed this step or not. If this doesn't get reset then doing the drive cycle is worthless.
The next steps you should do on a subsequent day.
Preliminaries: Gas tank should be between 1/4 & 3/4 full. All accelerations should be gradual, no jack rabbit starts, pretend there's a ripe tomato between your foot and the gas pedal. Try to keep your throttle position as constant as is reasonable. I had a little variation, but again, all adjustments to keep speed were very gradual. Braking should also be very gradual. A/C must be off during the idling periods. I had the A/C off the entire time & I should have had it on at least while I was doing the freeway part. DO NOT TURN OFF THE CAR UNTIL THE ENTIRE DRIVE CYCLE IS COMPLETED. Otherwise you will have to start the Drive Cycle over from the beginning.
Must start the drive cycle with a cool engine, between 84 & 112 degrees. I'm in Phoenix so my car is at least 84 in the morning, you may have to idle your car for a minute or so if the temperature is pretty cold in your area.
Drive Cycle:
A- Drive city streets trying to stay around 35 mph (in Drive) and having as few stops as possible. Accelerate gradually after a stop. I started at 5 am on a Sunday, little traffic which was helpful.
DO THIS FOR 6 MINUTES and then park somewhere and idle for about 90 seconds. Turn off the A/C while idling.
B- Do A again.
If you are going to use a freeway for the part C below, try to end up very near the freeway on ramp. Park somewhere and idle for 2 - 3 minutes ( I did 3 minutes).
C- Speed up to around 55 - 60 mph in Drive ( 1800 - 2200 rpm's) and try to keep the throttle position as constant as possible. You may want to turn your A/C on. OK for the speed and RPMs to vary a little but try to keep as constant as you can. Do this for 5 minutes. Pull over, turn off the A/C while idling and stop for 2 - 3 minutes (I did 3 minutes). I pulled on to the shoulder of the freeway. When stopping I used the brakes very gently, taking a long way to stop, probably about a 1/4 mile.
D- After the 2 - 3 minutes repeat C for 5 more minutes. Pull over and stop for 90 seconds
remembering to turn off the A/C while you're stopped.
E- Now GENTLY accelerate until your RPM's are between 1800 - 2000 in Drive, but try not to go higher than that while you're accelerating, don't worry if it's a little over, and then coast to a stop. It's OK to VERY GENTLY brake to help to slow down but the coasting is an important part of the cycle so we don't want to cut it short. Repeat this for a total of 5 times. If you're on the freeway, try to end up on or near an off ramp. When you come to a stop, idle (with A/C off) for 2 - 3 minutes.
If you had an OBDII reader you could check to see if this completed the Drive cycle. I did not have one
so...
F- Go back to step A and do the whole thing again.
When you finish the 5th "coast to a stop" part of E, idle for 2-3 minutes and the go to the next step G.
You can do this next step in 3rd or like I did, in Drive. MPH's refer to what I did but the RPM's are what are important.
G- Accelerate to 55 - 60 mph (1800 - 2200 RPMs) in Drive and drive for 2 minutes.
H- Accelerate to 85 mph (3000 - 3500 RPMs.) for 30 seconds then coast back to 55 - 60.
I- Maintain the 55 - 60 mph for 2 more minutes then repeat H for 30 seconds.
J- Coast down to 65 - 70 mph (2300 - 2500 RPM's) and drive for 2 minutes.
That should do it. I drove immediately to an AutoZone & they were able to see that almost all the codes were reading ready & OK. If this had not worked I would have gone back to the very beginning with the Flywheel Adaption Reset.
The Local Volvo Dealer guys want $360 to $400 to do this for you. I asked if they would check to see if my Flywheel Adaption was ready, but they would not. A non dealer Volvo repair shop said they would do that for me, & had this not worked that would have been my next step. They would have charged $300 to do this entire procedure but would have checked the Flywheel reading for free. It took every bit of an hour and a half.
I hope this is helpful to somebody.
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AaronSales
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 7 September 2012
- Year and Model: S90 1998
- Location: Arizona USA
Just a quick note to add that I did in fact pass the smog test on the Tuesday after I ran the drive cycle.
If you're in the Phoenix area and want more info feel free to contact me.
If you're in the Phoenix area and want more info feel free to contact me.
Tested mine in Jersey in April- had just changed the battery, so no history. They did the tailpipe and flunked me for the gas cap. Replaced the gas cap and that was all they checked on the re-test.
State facility and free. Gotta get in line at 7:00 Saturday or kill the day.
State facility and free. Gotta get in line at 7:00 Saturday or kill the day.
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AaronSales
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 7 September 2012
- Year and Model: S90 1998
- Location: Arizona USA
After having failed several emissions testing with my 98 S90, I've become pretty good at successfully completing the drive cycle. The most common error made in completing it is failure to do a Flywheel reset. It's easy to do. Find a strip of road that's about a mile long and not busy. In Tempe AZ, I use the Price frontage road between Southern and Broaway. Put the car in 3rd and run the RPMs up to about
3000 - 3500 then coast to a near stop, I also do the same thing with it in Low. 3 times going north (a mile/time) and 3 times going south does it for me.
After that follow the drive cycle instructions as posted elsewhere. Note that the drive cycle cancels itself if you exceed 55 mph. That probably had something to do with the speed limits back then.
3000 - 3500 then coast to a near stop, I also do the same thing with it in Low. 3 times going north (a mile/time) and 3 times going south does it for me.
After that follow the drive cycle instructions as posted elsewhere. Note that the drive cycle cancels itself if you exceed 55 mph. That probably had something to do with the speed limits back then.
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