2000 S70 - Door key won't turn in lock

TXPilot69 · Post by **TXPilot69** » 28 Aug 2013, 12:13

I can't unlock or lock the driver's side door using either key I have--but it will unlock just fine with the key fob. Obviously, I want to fix this so I'm not stuck outside the vehicle if either the vehicle's battery or the one in the fob is dead. Any ideas on what to look for? I do know how to remove the door panel...

Thanks!

TXPilot69 · Post by **TXPilot69** » 28 Aug 2013, 12:38

Oh, and I should say that the electric door lock mechanism was recently replaced--before that, it wouldn't always pull the lock down.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 28 Aug 2013, 15:06

If the lack mechanism was recently replaced and the problem started after that the chances are that the rod from the key lock cylinder isn't properly seated in the socket on the latch mechanism. It is a challenge to get the rod lined up.

In order to seat the rod in the latch you need to remove the key lock cylinder and then re-install it.

To get the lock cylinder out you need to open the door and then remove the triangular shaped plastic cover that is on the edge of the door directly behind the handle. Under that cover there are two torx screws that secure the handle to the door. If you look just outward (toward the door handle) from the screws there is a cavity in the handle casting and inside of that cavity there is a spring steel tab.

With the key in the lock use a small screwdriver pushed into that cavity to depress the release tab and then pull the lock cylinder out. While that sounds easy it is actually a bit tough since the key wants to come out easier than the lock cylinder wants to release from the casting. Pressing the key a bit sideways can help and a second small screwdriver to pry the cylinder out from the handle side can help as well. The key needs to stay fully seated in the lock during this whole process.

Once the cylinder is out you should note that there is a rod extending from the cylinder that has a T shaped end. If you look inside the hole in the handle you will see a socket that looks like a large Phillips head on a screw. The "T" shaped ends of the cylinder rod need to go into the socket on the latch.

Getting the rod to go in to engage the socket is another challenge as the lock cylinder rod swivels at the end of the lock cylinder. As such, it wants to droop down below the socket.

Next to the triangular cover that you removed earlier there is a small plastic plug. I use a small screwdriver through the hole under that plug to guide the rod into the socket. Once the rod is in the socket on the latch you can simply press the lock cylinder in all the way and the cylinder will lock into place. From there make sure everything works as it should and replace the plastic covers.

...Lee

Post by **JimBee** » 28 Aug 2013, 20:12

Lee, if you see this post—is the mechanism and procedure the same on the 850? I have a pass. side door lock that works fine from the inside or auto lock, but the cylinder doesn't turn with the key in. Possible disalignment of the rod and the socket?

Post by **abscate** » 29 Aug 2013, 05:05

Lee ..I wonder if wrapping the key in Teflon tape would increase the friction for that step?

Superglue would work too, but with a downside...

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 Aug 2013, 07:07

JimBee wrote:Lee, if you see this post—is the mechanism and procedure the same on the 850? I have a pass. side door lock that works fine from the inside or auto lock, but the cylinder doesn't turn with the key in. Possible disalignment of the rod and the socket?

The 850s have the same setup - just twice as many door locks. If you can get the cylinder to release with the key then the key itself is correct for the lock. If the cylinder won't release then there is a possibility that the keys and locks got partially swapped with a donor car.

...Lee

TXPilot69 · Post by **TXPilot69** » 29 Aug 2013, 08:49

Ozark Lee wrote:If the lack mechanism was recently replaced and the problem started after that the chances are that the rod from the key lock cylinder isn't properly seated in the socket on the latch mechanism. It is a challenge to get the rod lined up.

In order to seat the rod in the latch you need to remove the key lock cylinder and then re-install it.

Lee, THANK YOU for the detailed notes! I'll check it out and report back. Maybe this would be a good one for me to take pictures of to accompany your excellent notes.

TXPilot69 · Post by **TXPilot69** » 02 Sep 2013, 14:35

Lee, you're a genius! Thank you for the detailed write-up; I was able to fix it with those notes. Pictures would have been useless--that small grommet covered hole that lets you see the white plastic "phillips head" receptacle you talked about, and using a screwdriver to lift and push the T-shaped end of the cylinder rod into that receptacle is just too small to take good photos through. But, with an LED flashlight shining into that grommet covered hole (grommet removed, of course), I could easily see what needed to be done... and now things work again!

Now, a new question, regarding the heater core hoses...