Wheel bearing or just crap tyre?

Volvoman176 · Post by **Volvoman176** » 30 Sep 2013, 05:46

Hi, on my Volvo s60 2002 I've recently (last 500 miles) had a grumbling that's increased with wheel speed origination from the front near side, to me it sounds a bit like a wheel bearing but when testing the wheel I can get a clunk between 9-3 but not from 12-6. I get this clunk from Both sides.

Now I don't know if it's related but the front has some pretty cheap tyres on and that side has a slow puncture but both of which have been on it since I bought it.

Do we think that it's pretty certainly a wheel bearing going? Or is there something else it could be?

I'm gonna try jacking the car up and swapping front and rear tyres (rear are pirelli p7) and see what that does as well.

Thanks for help, Chris

GMTURBO · Post by **GMTURBO** » 30 Sep 2013, 07:31

Does it change in pitch or intensity going around a curve? It sounds more like a wheel bearing to me but as you mentioned swapping the tires could confirm.

Volvoman176 · Post by **Volvoman176** » 30 Sep 2013, 08:39

Yeah I've been trying to decide if it does or not, the grumbling is pretty loud this last few days. It does get a bit louder and quieter. Just wanting a bit of confirmation as money's tight and I don't fancy wasting some.

What's the going price for a new bearing and hub ?

Is changing it as simple as removing calliper and disc then one large nut and sliding it off?

Volvoman176 · Post by **Volvoman176** » 30 Sep 2013, 11:24

Euro car parts had a sale on so I got a new bearing. Despite saying a kit all I got was the hub and bearing, no bolt for the middle. Do I require one (is it a stretch bolt)?

Post by **regent** » 30 Sep 2013, 11:31

The VIDA Procedure calls for a complete removal of the spindle and placing it in a vise to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly to it.
I was able to replace mine (driver side) by just removing the brake caliper, carrier, disc, and backing plate. With the axle bolt removed, I pushed the axle in (about 1”) to get enough clearance for the socket to fit on the 18mm hub bolts. Everything else is a piece of cake. There was no need to disconnect any suspension or steering components. (Note that I have a 2002 S60 n/a with an automatic transmission.)
I had a recent trip to the Smoky Mountains in TN (lots of curves up and downhill with lots of options to hear some distinctive bearing noises) when I pinpointed the left (driver side) wheel bearing.

I got my parts (FAG bearing, seal, and four new bolts - yes, replace the bolts, they are torque-to-yield - all from http://www.autohausaz.com for under $150 with free ship in USA)

Hope this helps

Post by **regent** » 30 Sep 2013, 11:34

The axle bolt can be reused with loctite. I have put the modified bolts with rubber inserts that require 50Nm of torque and have reused them without issues. The four hub bolts are TTY; you want to replace them for sure
Thanks

Volvoman176 · Post by **Volvoman176** » 30 Sep 2013, 13:55

Right well I'll have to go back to euro car parts cos they only gave me the bearing and hub not the full kit (inc bolts) like the should've done. Did you have enough room to fit a torque wrench behind the hub to TTY the bolts? Should they also be loctited? Just making sure I have all the parts I need before I start this job!

Post by **regent** » 01 Oct 2013, 08:16

Since I could turn the steering all the way left and right, I had sufficient room for a 1/2" drive torque wrench, and then I did the angle tightening with a breaker bar. VIDA says nothing about loctite for these fasteners, but it would not hurt to apply. Just make sure that you can recalculate the correct wet torque value with loctite present on the threads.

(When thread locking compound is required, the new fasteners usually come with a patch on the threads.) I personally would not worry about it since I put on new volvo bolts.

Did eurocarparts sell you the FAG bearing or some other brand? (FAG is the OEM and I would not recommend anything that has not been vetted) TIMKEN used to sell these with a FAG bearing

On another note, since you're at it, I say replace the seal between the shaft end and the hub. The premature hub bearing failures are known to occur due to the elements getting past the seal. And it costs about 3 bucks

Volvoman176 · Post by **Volvoman176** » 02 Oct 2013, 10:00

Hi thanks for all the info, it's OEM bolts and a LUCAS bearing. Just found out my alloys are porous so have to watch the pennies now.

Volvoman176 · Post by **Volvoman176** » 05 Oct 2013, 07:11

Hi, did the swap was nice and straight forward, original bearing was completely FUBAR.

However

The bolt to hold the cv in snapped with about 10nm of force... So resulted in removing the cv to to get it out and the old bolt being re used.... Needless to say I wasn't happy with an OEM part but such is life.

Rotated the tyres and have so much more grip and responsiveness so going to invest in a new pair of tyres, going with the ones the police use (must be good)

Thanks for your advice!