1998 Volvo s70 GLT, coolant indicator light

[MoVolvos]

Just looked at the coolant level again after driving for a bit. It seems to be a a tad low from where I filled it the other day. Not sure if there is air working its way out of the system or what is going on. Will update later on.

You should start fresh in the morning with a cold engine and correct the level before driving. I think "cn90" maybe right about a small leak in the system. My Heater Core hose has been leaking unknownst to me since Jan 2012 as it left several drips on the driveway after shutting down the car. Always thought it was the Turbo.

The Level in the Tank has been off in the last several months with a slight seepage at the cap after the car is driven. Found the following when I recently replace the Core and Core Hoses in the engine bay.

Never removed the Air Tube to Turbo but knew it was rubbing sometime ago. Did not see any seepage at the top at the time but the bottom is obvious.

Heater Core Hose Below Air Tube (w/PTC) To Turbo Inlet

Blessing,

BKM

**

[cn90]

BKM,

How many miles in your car?
As a routine maintenance (I am at 156K miles), I am considering replacing the 2 heater hoses using "erikv11" approach: 5/8" heater hoses all the way from the heater core (cutting the metal piping first) ---> firewall ---> engine.

[MoVolvos]

BKM,

How many miles in your car?
As a routine maintenance (I am at 156K miles), I am considering replacing the 2 heater hoses using "erikv11" approach: 5/8" heater hoses all the way from the heater core (cutting the metal piping first) ---> firewall ---> engine.

I have 245K cn90.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=59506


1) I would stay with the Stock Coupler if I had not broken it .

2) If I were to be in there again I would try the 1/2" hose first. Buy a foot and see if you can with a little help of grease push it onto the engine side hose fittings. 1/2" is fairly easy to put on the Aluminum tubes (see pic in link) and much more maneuverable in the engine bay. The little film of grease will not cause the hose to pop off as it has a bulge in the fitting and the clamp will make sure of that.

3) Last choice would be 5/8" hose on cut Aluminum tube through the Coupler out directly into OE Style Heater Core hoses in the engine bay.

The 5/8" could work out very well if you don't cut the Aluminum tube too close to the Core (same with 1/2" hose) so it is a straight shot out the Coupler hole instead of an angle then up and out. Be sure it does not put undue back pressure or any pressure on the Heater Core when you connect the Aluminum tubes to the Core. The hardest part will be to make sure it does not collapse or rub anything in the engine bay.

I am an info junkie so forget what I watched many times but there was a FCP video and the tech was in the Turbo area so he was able to swivel the OE hoses in the Coupler to make room for his repair and trust me there will be no room for movement if you use any of the above except perhaps the 1/2" hose alternative.

Blessings,

BKM

**

[rspi]

OP: I guess there is a chance that you have a hose that is swelling under pressure, causing the drop in level while it's running.

I think all coolant hoses need to be replaced every 10 years. It's just not worth the risk. Most cars blow head gaskets because they blow a coolant hose and the car overheats in about 60 seconds. Really no warning, especially if the coolant is going under the car.

Every 850/S70 that I have ever owned has never seen a drop in coolant while the car is running. The level in my current car stays steady cold or hot. I totally drained all of the coolant out about 3 weeks ago and flushed the system and the level dropped once and burped totally in 2 days. The hose on top of the coolant bottle to the t-stat housing is there to burp the system, along with the proper thermostat that has the bleeder hole/pin in it. See this video, 5:30.

[jblackburn]

Bah.

This doesn't sound like anything more than an air pocket trapped in the system that was let out.

He filled the coolant tank when the rest of it was warm (expands when warm!) so it's now a little low. Top off to the max mark when cold and keep an eye on it.

It would be wise to check out all hoses though, especially those turbo ones.