DIY: 98 V70 Engine Oil Change (& ATF Change): the Easy Way! Topic is solved

[MoVolvos]

The Flush is for ATF xHeart. Warm your engine so the Fluid flows well!!!! If you feel up to it you may want to change the O-Rings on the bottom hose. Be honest with you I think counting the ratio of clean vs dirty fluid ratio in a D&F is not a good practice. Honda has it in their manual. It is better to drain, fill and flush. If you drain 3.5 quarts refill with that amount and then just flush out 3.0 and add back 3.0 and so on the fluid is much cleaner. You don't want to starve the pump (bubble coming out of the hose) during the flush.

Imagine if the fluid was really contaminated regardless of ratio you are mixing a lot stuff with the new while flushing you only get a small portion mixed and that is flushed out by the 1 to 2 quarts that is wasted after the flush fluid turns clean.

Here is the procedure.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... php?t=8767

Here is what it looks like when you pull the top hose off but on a newer Model with the quick connect but will show you that it is not messy.


In Action - Fluid being pumped out but on a Honda. What he is doing is an overkill in the amount of fluid wasted however.


Link to my comments on the Flush
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 9&start=14

Blessings,

BKM
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[cn90]

Good alternatives are Bosch 3323...

I just found an error on my post from last year. Here is the correct info on the Bosch oil filter:

Good alternatives are Bosch 3321 (NOT 3323)...

[Eddie Plum]

My 1998 V70 Service Reminder in the dash requires a special tool to shut if off, so I placed a small piece of black electrical tape over it 10 years ago and have not missed this stupid light at all.

I know this is an old thread and this comment is a mite off topic, but I assume your '98 V70 has the same OBD diagnostic port as my '96 850. If so, there's an easy way to reset your service light without a proper reset tool.

Of the 16 pins in the diagnostic port (under the coin holder in front of the gear stick - pins 1-8 left to right on the top row, 9-16 left to right on the bottom row) pin 16 is +ve and pin 5 is ground. Pin 3 connects to the engine management module for fault diagnosis, but this port works exactly the same way as the old under-bonnet diagnostic module found in earlier 850's, so here's the trick:

- Poke the +ve terminal of a 12v LED into pin 16 and the -ve terminal into pin 3 of the diagnostic port.
- Open out a paperclip so you have a small length you can jam into pin 5 (gnd) and a longer length which will allow you to make contact with with the leg of the LED which is in pin 3.
- Insert the short length of the paperclip into pin 5 and switch on the ignition (pos. 2, but do not start the engine)
- Make contact between the paperclip in pin 5 and the LED leg in pin 3 (lighting the LED) for 5 seconds, then break the contact. The LED should go out when you break contact, then illuminate again to confirm it is ready for the next command.
- Make the contact for another 5 seconds, then release.

This should clear the service indicator after the ignition is recycled. To check, make the contact one more time for 1 second and then release. The LED should flash 3 times (indicating diagnostic code 1-1-1 meaning no faults)

Sometimes you have to repeat this a couple of times, recycling the ignition in between, but that is also the case if you have the proper tool.

This works for late model 850's ('96-on) and phase one S/V/C70's ('97-'98) so I hope it's helpful to a few users.

Ed.