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Fixing 850 / S70 rattling dashboard.

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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csbrianp
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Fixing 850 / S70 rattling dashboard.

Post by csbrianp »

I know that elsewhere on this site is the correct way to fix our rattling dashboards, but for most of us that's a big job that takes many hours. Here's another way to fix the squeaks.

(I have pictures but don't know how to load on this site.)

Open hood and remove the 5 torx bolts holding down the cowl cover. Remove the windshield wipers. Lift out the plastic cowl cover.

After removing the cowl now would be a good time to replace that cabin filter located on the passenger side.

Remove the seal at the bottom of the windshield. Mine came right off but a friend's never did come off.

My Dashboard was broken on the passenger side and was driving me crazy seeing it flop around every time I hit a large bump.

Once the cowl is removed you can see the 4 bolts that hold the dashboard in place. You might want to tighten them a little first. This worked wonders on my son's T5R, but broke one of my mounts on my 850 Turbo, so be careful.

I took a 5/16 drill bit and drilled a hole about 4" to the left and an inch above the location of the stock bolt. When drilling use caution, do not ram or push real hard on the drill because you can damage the wiring harness which sits about an 1/2" behind the firewall. Once the drill breaks through the firewall stop and remove drill. Using a torx screw driver feel around in the hole to find the wiring harness. try moving the harness up or down to get it out of the way. Once you are on hard plastic push a little and see if the dashboard moves. If the dashboard doesn't really move, keep trying you are not on the dashboard.

Once you are sure (key word) that you are on the dashboard take a 2 1/2" drywall screw and try to find the same location by moving it up or down to move the harness so you have a good contact with the dashboard, when you push on the screw the dashboard should move. Use a drill with a Philips bit and slowly start screwing in the drywall screw. It will go right through the plastic on the dashboard. Watch through the windshield as the dashboard tightens close to the windshield.

No need to get the drywall screw overly tight just snug it up.

You are done, reassemble the cabin filter first if so equipped, then the plastic cowl, then the wipers.

Caution, This could end up being a very costly repair if done in haste. Take your time and move that wiring harness out of the way. I have done this procedure to 4 850 Volvos and everyone has worked out fine.

This may not be the right way of fixing the squeaky dashboard but it beats the $1200 the shop wants to fix it right.

Brian

redrider_64
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Joined: 13 June 2009
Year and Model: 850T,1994
Location: atlanta

Post by redrider_64 »

Sounds like a great / cost effective fix to a problem I been wrestling with myself. Did you try removing the dashboard cover to see if that would give you a better view of the wiring harness? If I remember correctly its not too difficult as you pop out the vents and remove retaining screws above instrument cluster and top inside of each vent. Guess I will try and post. :)

Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

Be aware of the location of the wiring harness that snakes around the upper part of the dash. Here is its natural location.
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DSC02373.JPG (217.92 KiB) Viewed 6005 times
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

ctate2000
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Joined: 15 August 2010
Year and Model: 2000 S70
Location: Savannah Ga

Post by ctate2000 »

Here is the method I employed.

Removed glove box insert, removed the knee panel under the glove box. These come off very quickly as the screws which secure them are revealed when you open the glove box door. The glove box insert is locked in place with a steel clamp like structure so be careful when you pull on the insert. Pry up the right corner until you get one or two fingers behind it then pry left side with a screw driver and pull with the right hand. I removed the knee panel to allow more light in. Behind the wiring harness on the body of the car there is an angle bracket with a slotted hole in it. It appears to do nothing. I suspect it was used for assembly purposes. There is a similar steel bracket attached to the dash which has several holes in it. I ran a heavy duty wire tie through both holes and cinched it tight. While I was tightening I pushed on the dash to make sure it was seated well. I over tightened the wire tie on my first attempt and the locking element broke after a few days. I used less force on the second attempt and it has been holding for several months now. It only took 30 minutes to complete. Now I know how to get to the blower motor which gets replaced this week. I miss the AC.

JimBee
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Post by JimBee »

Lots of good ideas above to arrest that pesty squeaking!
Here's how I fixed my '93 850 two years ago.

Dash mount was loose right of passenger's knee.
When I had the dash pad off to change it for a cleaner one, I used a number 8 (I think) x 2 1/2 self threading sheet metal screw to stabilize the dash.

I stuck my portable drill into the speaker hole at an angle and with a good quality high speed drill bit (~ # 9 or 10) drilled through the side plastic panel of the dash and into the round tubing that runs up along that pillar by the edge of the windshield. You can't get in there with a punch to make a starter dimple, so you just need to get on the tubing in the middle and gently get a hole started with your drill bit.

Drill through the one side of the tubing. Be careful not to make the hole in the plastic larger than the screw.

Grind that screw into the hole in the post. Don't need to bottom out the head of the screw on the plastic. The screw will stand on its own. On a bad road I occasionally hear a little squeaking. 99% of the time it's quiet.

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Brain,

Thanks for a very interesting post.

I wish you posted some pictures!

Anyway, when drilling tricky locations, put a masking tape on the drill bit at the depth you want, this way once you hit the masking tape, slow down!


FYI, this is the procedure posted by "Tech" on the other forum, but it is more labor-intensive.
Personally I like your idea better.
http://www.volvo-forums.com/t11882-dash ... repair.htm
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Brian,

Thanks for a very interesting post.

I wish you posted some pictures!

Anyway, when drilling tricky locations, wrap some masking tape on the drill bit at the depth you want, this way once you hit the masking tape, slow down!


FYI, this is the procedure posted by "Tech" on the other forum, but it is more labor-intensive.
Personally I like your idea better.
http://www.volvo-forums.com/t11882-dash ... repair.htm
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Here is a video if anyone need it.

'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

B234R
Posts: 40
Joined: 28 December 2012
Year and Model: 850 1996
Location: Spain

Post by B234R »

csbrianp wrote:I know that elsewhere on this site is the correct way to fix our rattling dashboards, but for most of us that's a big job that takes many hours. Here's another way to fix the squeaks.

(I have pictures but don't know how to load on this site.)

Open hood and remove the 5 torx bolts holding down the cowl cover. Remove the windshield wipers. Lift out the plastic cowl cover.

After removing the cowl now would be a good time to replace that cabin filter located on the passenger side.
...
This seems a very interesting way to solve those horrible rattles. I started to suffer them a couple of months ago, but they have grown very fast and I´m fed up. 850 R´s hard ride doesn´t help, of course.

I´m planning to make a pair of holes in the firewall and screw two bolts in the noisy passenger side , just like csbrianp says. Yesterday I was in the junkyard and I notice there was a 850 with the dashboard removed. I took some pictures, and I saw that the holes where the stock bolts go are rather long (8 centimeters- 3.15 inches). I saw, too, that perhaps it would be safer (in order to avoid the wiring harness) to dig about 3 centimeters- 1.18 inches to the right, at the same height of the stock bolt.

Does anybody have a dashboard picture, right where the dash mounts are? I wouldn´t be very happy if a made a 8 centimeters hole in a wrong place, or if I screw a bolt in a weak place and the plastic shattered.

Thanks!

(Sorry for my crappy English)
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