89 240 dl sometimes it starts

r_ziots70 · Post by **r_ziots70** » 20 Oct 2013, 04:29

I'm new here.. ok so I get in I go to turn the key and nothing.. I've thought it was the switch in the shifter. But that's not it. Because it left me stranded more than once. The first time it did it when I came back with my husband. I got in and it just started right up.. this was 4 hrs later. Another time I got in , turned key, nothing... I've got power ,maybe the baterys alittle low I'm thinkin. so I decide to try my jumper box. I hook it up to the battery , get back in and it starts.. but my battery was fine. We checked it and its charging and putting off what it should. Now when I tried this on a different occasion. It didn't work.This keeps happening and getting worse. Now here's where my husband thought I was nutts. When ever it does this. When I turn the key and if its quiet enough, you can hear the faintest sound of a starter.. its like the starter is in ultimate whisper mode.. I know this sounds crazy but its what's been happening. Also having troubles with the fuel pump relay not commin on so we've been jumping the fuse to get it to activate. Fuse 4 and 6. Will kick it on.. now the car is to unreliable and won't start today at all and I don't have the money to chase this problem. So confused..

r_ziots70 · Post by **r_ziots70** » 21 Oct 2013, 12:04

Ok so nobody has any advise or can help. I've never owned a volvo before and honestly this is the craziest car with the strangest problems. I live in a very wet, humid, hot environment. And it seems that anything to do with electronics is messed up on this thing. Which is everything. I can't take it to a shop. I can't drive it. Because it won't start. It won't crank. The starters about 9 months old. Battery is 6 mo old. Alt is working good. Checked neutral switch. Its less than 2 yrs old. And it all looks good. I don't have a manuel. Please some one knows something..

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 21 Oct 2013, 12:57

Starter solenoid? If the starter is only about 9 months old maybe suspect the quality of it, same thing goes with the starter. Also check all the electrical connections to the starter and the battery.

r_ziots70 · Post by **r_ziots70** » 24 Oct 2013, 09:29

Thankyou lummert for your reply. Thankyou so much. I didn't think anyone was goin to answer backStarter and solenoid are. Good. Husband checked them last night. Also Ran codes for got 1-1-1. So no problems there either. Also having issues with pump not comming on. We've been jumping the pump at the 4 and 6 fuse box circut. Husband wants to put in a toggle switch for this. Would love some advise on this matter. Cars been in driveway now for almost aweek. Need wiring diagrams also for1990 240 for this situation.

Post by **mtd240** » 24 Oct 2013, 10:36

When you turn the ignition to the "start" position, the solenoid activates and slowly turns the starter motor until the pinion gear meshes with the flywheel ring gear (to prevent damage to the gears caused by a fast spinning gear meshing with one that isn't spinning at all). This is probably the "whispering starter noise" you are hearing. As they fully mesh, the solenoid simultaneously completes the circuit between the battery and the starter motor, which causes the motor to spin faster and start the engine. It sounds like your solenoid is only doing part of its job (turning slowly), and isn't completing the circuit between the starter motor and battery after it meshes the gears. (look at the attached PDF if you want to learn more about starters, specifically page 5 - the 240 has a conventional style starter, not gear reduction) Did your husband check solenoid operation, or did he just check that there was voltage to the solenoid? When the car doesn't start, get a long object (broomstick) and give the solenoid a good smack/tap. If that makes it work, you need a new starter.

Also - have you checked the battery cables - they could be corroded, causing intermittent high resistance. Do a voltage drop test from the positive terminal down to the solenoid - should have low voltage drop (while cranking) <0.7V. Do the same between the battery ground and metal starter case - while cranking, it should be <0.2V.

There is a way to bypass the NSS and ignition switch, by jumping a firewall connector (starter test terminal) to the positive battery terminal. See the thread here. That thread has a step by step diagnostic process you could go through as well.

EDIT: Here are some wiring diagrams for your 240.

r_ziots70 · Post by **r_ziots70** » 24 Oct 2013, 18:15

Mtd240 you are wonderful. My husbands feeling a little less stressed. He won't be able to do these tests till this weekend. I hope this works and we can get back on the road. I was begining to lose hope for a minute there. Thankyou again I will post what we find out. Hey one more question. Is it usual our car is an 89. But when ever we get parts we have to order for a 90.. is that normal?? Oh and the one attachment on the bottom when I down loaded it , it was for a toyota..

Post by **mtd240** » 25 Oct 2013, 08:13

Don't lose hope! Lots of silly electrical gremlins on these..a good multimeter is as valuable as a socket set.

Why do you have to order parts for a '90? Regardless, no worries on the parts being from a different year. The major parts for an '89 are identical to those from a '90. Both use the same engine, trans, and fuel/ignition/hvac/etc systems with the same components.

Regarding the attachment - the testing procedures, electrical connections, pictures, and pretty much everything else (aside from the "gear reduction" type starter info) are accurate to the 240's starter. The Toyota technical training modules are some of the best (free) automotive education out there.

Good luck!

r_ziots70 · Post by **r_ziots70** » 25 Oct 2013, 14:36

Hi mtd240 you have been a god send. When weve had to jump the fuel relay at the fuse box due to no fuel pump running when starting the car.(when it was starting)This issue started before the ignition stared to fail. After driving for alittle while I usually pull off the jumper and it keeps going.. Now if we end up putting in a toggle switch for this problem, which fuse or wire should he tap into? and whats your thoughts on this as for any other issues this may bring? Im trying to get all our ducks in a row for him to tackle our car tomorrow. We are deeply greatful for every bit of help you and others have given us. If I hadn't of found this site we would probly be scraping my car by now. thankyou again

r_ziots70 · Post by **r_ziots70** » 26 Oct 2013, 18:42

To everyone who has replied to my post. THANKYOU all so very much. I also want to say THANKYOU to the maker of this site. We have searched and read just about everything there was and with the extra help from the diagrams,links and just info we didn't have. We were able to get our car running again. We started checking wires and found 2 grounds not connected in engine area. Also cleaned just about every conector we came across and inspecting all wires that we thought would be suspect. We turned the key and the pumps are running and it started right up. Again THANKYOU ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP.

r_ziots70 · Post by **r_ziots70** » 27 Oct 2013, 10:28

NOPE! Not fixed.... husband went out to double check this morning. Turned key, no pumps hummin... so he started checking wires at fuel relay. After a few hours of checking,testing. He had narrowed it down to the relay. When it was pluged in, if he just twisted it slightly it would activate pumps.. we both were thinkin it was the wire conector. I took the relay cover off and did some inspecting of my own. We figured out almost every solder dot had a crack in it. One in particular was so far off when you wiggled it you could see it was completly cracked. We've looked at that relay a few times. But if your eyes aren't good or you don't have good light you'll not see such small cracks.. almost need a magnifying class to be sure. He is fizing it now as we speak. Once again. I OWE MY SANITY TO THIS SITE. THANKYOU ALL SO VERY MUCH.