1997 Volvo 850 GLT - Won't Turn Over

[1997volvo850]

Working in 20 degree whether is always invigorating.

I've removed the passenger-side bolt and the forward bolt on the driver's side. I did remove the bracket
for the wiring harness and it allowed me to get a wrench in there. One observation is that this bracket
is rather sharp and you need to be careful not to damage the coolant lines that are tight up against it.
Removed the upper driver's side upper/rear bolt with ease.

Moved the bracket to the new used starter. 2006 s60 starter looks close to new.

I've heard the gear mechanism can lock up on the starter. Is there any preventative lubing
I should do on the new starter before installing?

Thanks for all the help. Now to put humpty back together again.

[rspi]

Not to my knowledge. These cars have very good starters. Don't hear of failures often.

[1997volvo850]

I'm a little disappointed mine only lasted 16+ years. The starter on my other 850 is also going -
thought it would die first - but the starter in the car that showed no signs of failing is the one that
failed.

The used starter off of a 2004 s60 looks like new, though it set me back $35 (shipping incl.).
Amazing what a used part from a warm state looks like after almost ten years. All I do is add the salt.

I'll finish up tomorrow - temperature dropped and wind picked up - just need to pop in relays and
connect battery.

I'll post a picture at some point.

[rspi]

Cool. That is a great price for a starter.

[matthew1]

Here's a 1996 850 starter replacement DIY with some notes and photos in case it helps anyone moving forward. Yea, it's tight in there.

[abscate]

Only a Volvo owner can complain a starter only lasted 16 years ....

[1997volvo850]

Today is not my lucky day. I can definitely hear the solenoid clicking louder than my old
starter so the car is sending power to the solenoid. Any recommendations on a OBD code
reader? I will re-check electrical connections but at this point towing to garage seems like
next course of action.

[rspi]

Have you tried to turn the motor over with the crank bolt?

[1997volvo850]

Robert,

Thanks for the quick response. You are suggesting that due to corrosion power is
not getting to the starter via the two thick wires (there's a third thinner wire) from
the battery that connect to the starter .

I did clean the terminals on the battery side before I started but I didn't wire
brush the connections at the starter since I was getting battery voltage at the starter
when I first tested. I will try to clean the leads at the starter in a few minutes. Too bad
everything is put together again...

The green wire on my vehicle has an enclosed end so I can't short power from
it to the large power bolt on the starter. I wonder if running another cable from the battery
to the starter (for testing purposes) is sufficient.

I will try testing the starter I took out using the battery and jumper cables. If this works
it would point to the positive connections.

Thanks

[tappolon]

Not sure if you have found your answer yet or not...
I haven't been doing this for long, but the IAC valve running after trying to start the car was a pretty big symptom for me. The local volvo specialist told me that things like that may still be running if there isn't enough power getting to the system to close the switch so it stops drawing power and running. It ended up being corroded ground cables - the braided wire cables that run from the engine to the firewall. That was when it wouldn't crank when I turned the key. Now I'm researching my crank but no start after the ground cables have been replaced. Cheers!