1999 V70R possible burnt valve?

HWG09 · Post by **HWG09** » 24 Dec 2013, 14:30

Been battling idle hunting issues for awhile so I bit the bullet and ordered the ETM from Xemodex. It arrived today but I have bigger issues.

The CEL light came on a couple of weeks back but there was nothing noticeable about it. Last Friday on my way home from work I notice the engine was shaking quite a bit and acceleration wasn't great. Also, when I came to stops the idle would jump around and it sounded like the engine was gonna die, including flickering lights.

The CEL started flashing about 5 times and then would stay on. I did some research and it sounded like I had a misfiring engine. I bought new plugs to change (Autolite Double Platinums). When I pulled the plugs #2 looked pretty bad so I figured that was most likely the problem. Unfortunately changing the plugs did not help. I took the car into the shop and they did a diagnostic and said I had a misfiring #2 cylinder (duh) and a faulty MAF sensor. They said they'd do the plugs for $100 and the MAF sensor for like $300 in a weeks time. I said to hell with that. I went and bought new plugs (NGK platinums .028 vs .030 Autolites which shop said weren't any good) and ordered a new MAF Sensor on Amazon for $100.

Just in case I got a new coil in case #2 was bad. I put the new plugs in last night along with the coil and nothing changed. Still shaking.

Today I tried the new coil in every cylinder with no luck. So I've still got a shaking engine and CEL.

With the MAF Sensor I cannot for the life of me get the old one off of the hose. It twists around no problem but will in no way separate enough to pull it off. I thought it best to clean the existing sensor before installing my new one but no way to get it off. Any ideas?

I don't really want to take the car back in to the shop since I've pretty much done everything they were gonna do but I'm not sure what my next step is.

Here is a video of how the engine is shaking these days. Thanks and Merry Christmas.

Post by **rspi** » 24 Dec 2013, 14:55

Sad to say, chances are, you have a burnt valve. Do a compression test.

Post by **rspi** » 24 Dec 2013, 14:56

Post by **rspi** » 24 Dec 2013, 15:01

HWG09 · Post by **HWG09** » 24 Dec 2013, 15:53

Thanks for the quick response. Looks like I need to check the compression next.

If it is a burnt valve what are we talking cost wise?

socompsp · Post by **socompsp** » 24 Dec 2013, 16:57

if you have 0 comp in cyl 2 you burnt the valves. i burnt both valves in cyl2 on my 98 c70 and when all was said and done indy charged me $2000. my indy has a labor rate of $91 hr, so your cost could be more.

HWG09 · Post by **HWG09** » 24 Dec 2013, 17:26

socompsp wrote:if you have 0 comp in cyl 2 you burnt the valves. i burnt both valves in cyl2 on my 98 c70 and when all was said and done indy charged me $2000. my indy has a labor rate of $91 hr, so your cost could be more.

Thanks. Do you know how you burnt the valves?

Only thing I can think of is about 2 months ago I got a oil change with a groupon and a week or so later my engine is making awful tapping sound so took it by autozone and it looked fresh out of oil so I topped it up and everything ran fine until last week when this thing happened.

HWG09 · Post by **HWG09** » 24 Dec 2013, 17:36

Do you think I ought to replace the cap and rotor, possibly the wires or just wait for the compression test?

socompsp · Post by **socompsp** » 24 Dec 2013, 21:35

there is debate on the topic, but usually bad air to fuel mix ratio (running rich or lean), and/or valves covered in oil from back guide seals. the oil causes the valve to cool and heat unevenly, then cause carbon buildup and not set/seal correctly causing hotspots and chipping. id do a comp test before you spend your money, cause you could be needing every cent you have.

how did i burn mine? i assume one of the above mentioned reasons but cannot be sure. all i do know is it bogged down suddenly under alot of load and my CEL started blinking indicating a dead miss. how much load? to paint a picture for ya, when it lost power and i looked at the gauges, i was at 135mph and dropping. but now i have a machined head, new gaskets all around, all new seals in and out of the head including cam and guide seals. all that, and my indy did an idler pulley and oil change for the $2000 i stated prior.

Post by **Pauloil** » 25 Dec 2013, 06:13

HWG09 wrote:Do you think I ought to replace the cap and rotor, possibly the wires or just wait for the compression test?

do the compression test, you can "rent" tools for free at oreillys