oil cooler line replacement

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Dec 2013, 22:41

Here is a thread about my dealing with the bent oil cooler thermostat housing:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=51346

Post by **confused_al** » 30 Dec 2013, 08:54

cn90 wrote:... But when checking 986226, it seems this bolt is longer that what I have in my 1998 S70 GLT...

These bolts work well for my 96 (maybe too well), not 100% sure about 98 but should be good.
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showA ... evel=24647

erikv11 wrote:Here is a thread about my dealing with the bent oil cooler thermostat housing:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=51346

Thanks erik!

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 02 Jan 2014, 06:14

What are the t40 torque specs? 18ft/lbs?

Post by **cn90** » 02 Jan 2014, 09:06

Question for the guru about T30 bolt. I just replaced both green O-rings inside the oil thermostat. Tightened the T30 bolt.

I noticed that even with the T30 bolt tightened properly, the cooler lines can be rotated a bit inside the housing, is this normal? I have no leak now.

PS: My advice for people, if you attempt to do this job:
1. Get new bolts from dealer, they are cheap. Two (2) T40 bolts and one (1) T30 bolt.
2. Get drill bits for steel, chances are you will strip one of these bolts and need to drill the bolt's head out. So get good drill bits designed for steel or concrete (Sears has them).

wjhandy850 · Post by **wjhandy850** » 02 Jan 2014, 10:09

Yes, I used the rotation of the O-rings to perform this repair. It allowed me access to the retaining bolt that holds the lines into the thermostat. I would go as far as saying, that this was they way these were installed in production, which explains why the bolt seems so impossible to get to.

Post by **cn90** » 08 Jan 2014, 12:30

As I mentioned above, the Volvo dealer replaced the two (2) Green O-rings for the previous owner at 130K.
Oil leaked happens 2 years/30K later at 160K miles.

I did a quick inspection and compared the new vs old O-rings (make sure you label them with Sharpie to avoid confusion) and saw no big difference that can explain the oil leak.

Then I inspected the "Retainer Plate" (where the Torx 30 bolt goes into), I noticed that it had a slight curvature built into it. It maybe from previous tightening or whatever the cause is.

I took the photo from the 1st post and modified it so you can see what I mean.
So I flipped the Retainer Plate around, this way there is more pressure on the metal line/O-rings.
No leak now. Hope this little trick helps someone down the road...

: OilCooler.JPG (98.35 KiB) Viewed 2818 times

Post by **mtd240** » 11 Nov 2014, 09:27

Did the oil cooler lines on my '98 XC this weekend. Took ~2 hours. This thread made me very cautious/careful with getting everything sealed correctly.

Response to cn90's post - I found that tightening down the retainer plate bent one side of it (only one line got pushed in). Flipping it over after tightening it down the first time resolved the issue - thanks for the tip. I would recommend (in the walkthroughs) to bend it out at the center before installing it, just to ensure the o-rings are sealed before the bolt bottoms out, and to prevent the need for flipping it after the first tightening.

I ended up stripping out the retainer plate torx screw (ordered a spare just in case, fortunately). Cut-off wheel, drill the head off, and the remaining threads easily spun out by hand.

Reinstalling the block bracket bolt was the hardest part of the job, by far. I am pretty sure I crossthreaded it, but whatever, it's in!

No leaks - hoping for another 150k miles

boise86volvoturbo · Post by **boise86volvoturbo** » 23 Jun 2015, 18:19

holler1 wrote:Some pictures of the oil cooler line connectors, line bracket bolt, oil thermostat, etc

Thanks for the pictures. I wish more contributors would include pictures. My 96 855 Turbowagon is up on jacks right now and I'm having trouble finding the lower oil cooler line, which I was told is leaking. These pictures are a big help. Thanks again.

Post by **mecheng** » 24 Jul 2016, 20:37

My lower oil cooler line is leaking and I've attempted to start its replacement but I'm having a bear of a time.

For the bolt that holds the bracket to the engine, I tried with a 3/8" extension and uv joint with no success. I took the route from the front of the engine but the AC bolt is somewhat in the way. How did you Guys loosen it.
I don't have a 1/4 long extension.

For the torx bolt that holds the lines to thermo, did you access it from the wheel well? Did you use Allen key torx, I tried with a socket but couldd find room

roy1956 · Post by **roy1956** » 26 Jul 2016, 01:55

One word of caution when you are replacing the oil cooler lines....before you start, disconnect the BATTERY!! I didn't, and while threading the new line into position, the hard line portion made a connection with the hot terminal on the rear of the alternator. The wire caught fire but the story has a happy ending. I quickly disconnected the battery (talk about shutting the barn door after the cows have left!) and then grabbed a CO2 fire extinguisher that I keep in the garage which put out the fire instantly with no residue. Seems no permanent damage was done as that was 3 years ago and the car has run fine since. BTW, I had a hydraulic hose guy replace the hose portions of my lines. He even knew to make sure the hard lines on each end were clocked in the same direction. Only charged me $35. each for the job, far less than OEM Volvo parts. Look for a guy who makes up hoses for tractors and heavy equipment. They have the equipment and the knowledge to do the job right.

oil cooler line replacement

Re: oil cooler line replacement