'99 V70 non-turbo Lighting Problem, cold weather [ ignition switch electrical] Topic is solved

Post by **Rob3** » 23 Dec 2006, 11:20

Hello to all. This is my first post, so please be gentle. ;^)

My '99 V70 has, what seems to be, a Temperature related Lighting problem. This car has about 90K Miles on it.

Once the temperature gets into the 40's (Fahrenheit) or below, the Headlights, Dash Lights, Back-up Lights, Turn Signals, Electric Rear Defroster, Seat Belt Warning Lights, Mirror Heaters and possibly other items that I'm not aware of, will not come on immediately after starting the car. They will eventually come on.

The colder it is, the longer it takes for them to come on. It may take up to 5 or 6 minutes (so far) before they come on. Once they turn on, they work flawlessly for the rest of the trip.

Wiggling the Key Switch makes no difference. Driving through potholes makes no difference. Wetness makes no difference. Removing the Battery for 5 minutes makes no difference.

The High Beams / Exterior Courtesy Lights Switch will light the Headlights as long as it is held. Park Lights will work when selected, and will light the Dash Lights. The Radio and A/C System are working fine.

I suspect that some "Module" is malfunctioning until the Electricity fed through it heats it up enough to begin working. I hope I'm wrong.

Can anyone help? I'm really hoping that someone can check a Schematic and find the point(s) that are common for these Systems and can tell me physically where these points are.

Thanks in advance.

Rob3

Post by **billofdurham** » 23 Dec 2006, 12:31

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo site, we are always gentle.

The only common thing I can work out is that the majority of the items that take time to work have relays in the central electrical unit (fuse box). However, other relays in there, eg the fuel pump relay, don't appear to be affected.

All I can suggest at the moment is that you check/clean the earth (ground) point for the CEU and also check/clean the main battery terminals, not forgetting the end connected to the car body.

Bill.

Post by **Rob3** » 24 Dec 2006, 13:50

Thanks for the suggestions.

What I'm really hoping is that someone has access to a Schematic, can read it and can pass on the needed info.

Failing that, someone knows an economical way for me to access a Schematic so that I can read it and go from there.

Thanks again for your help.

Merry Christmas.

Rob3

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 Dec 2006, 15:06

You can read all the schematics you want (if you can get your hands on them) but I really believe that you have either a ground wire(s) problem(s) or your battery is a bit weak. I read about these exact problems every year when it gets colder and almost always it's the battery. Colder weather tends to decrease the connectivity between components and weak batteries exacerbate the situation.

Post by **JRL** » 24 Dec 2006, 15:27

MadeInJapan wrote:You can read all the schematics you want (if you can get your hands on them) but I really believe that you have either a ground wire(s) problem(s) or your battery is a bit weak. I read about these exact problems every year when it gets colder and almost always it's the battery. Colder weather tends to decrease the connectivity between components and weak batteries exacerbate the situation.

Also, as I have been remioding people, the POSITIVE (main) battery cable on these cars go bad.
I will bet that if you replace it, (not all that cheap as it runs UNDER a lot of stuff) along with a new battery, your problem will be solved

Post by **Rob3** » 25 Dec 2006, 20:14

Thanks for the help.

The Battery is only one year old and the Engine cranks and starts easily. The Cables look good at the Battery ends.

I'll take a Meter and check the Voltage at the Fuse Box and see where it's at before starting the car, during starting, during the problem and after the Lights start working.

I'll let you know what I find.

Rob3

Post by **Rob3** » 25 Dec 2006, 20:40

Just tested Voltages at Fuse Box on Cable stud.

Before starting: 12.07
During starting: 10.40 (I think this is normal)
During problem: 13.65 - 13.67
After lights begin working: 13.67 and rising very slowly

I don't think that this indicates a Battery Cable. What do you think?

Thanks again.

Rob3

Baker · Post by **Baker** » 26 Dec 2006, 18:27

This offer is not a substitute for professional advice.

Get me a set of electrical diagrams and I will try to read and advise you.
As MADE IN JAPAN said very hard to get.

Tally Ho

Post by **Rob3** » 26 Dec 2006, 20:34

Thank you for the offer. Perhaps you might see something I miss.

The problem is not in reading the Schematics (I work on Medical Electronics for a living); but rather, in getting them inexpensively and getting accurate ones.

Again, thank you for all of your help.

Rob3

Post by **Rob3** » 12 Jan 2007, 19:17

A Progress Report and a Question.

I obtained a Schematic. I traced the problem down to a matter of no Voltage is being sent to the Relay Coil during the Problem.

The last thing I've done is this: I tried turning the Key about 3 times from the Off position to the Run position without starting the Car. The Lights did not come on. I tried using a Blow Dryer and heated the Ignition Switch for about 1 minute before inserting the Key. The Lights came on immediately upon turning the Key.

I haven't absolutely confirmed that the Key Switch is bad (I will), but I'm pretty confident that it is bad.

Does anyone know what is involved in fixing this? Any pointers are appreciated. I have no Service Manuals for this Car.

Thanks in advance.

Rob3