Huco voltage regulator - no male plug lead?

S373N · Post by **S373N** » 03 Mar 2014, 09:14

Going to switch out my regulator (97 855 non-turbo) and the Huco unit FCP sent doesn't have the male plug lead that my Bosch unit does? Any ideas? Part # Huco 13-0559...

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Mar 2014, 10:32

With voltage regulators there are several options. Unfortunately we can't just order one off a web page, the part number of the VR on the existing alternator must be pulled and matched up with a replacement VR. See this post for more info:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=61610

S373N · Post by **S373N** » 03 Mar 2014, 11:11

Great write-up. Wish I had seen it before I ordered the Huco I got. FCP website didn't have any fitment notes so assumed it was interchangeable...

Any idea where to order the Regitar VRB229? Or am I better to just go with the Bosch replacement?

Out of curiosity, can the brushes be switched between the large VR and small VR? It looks like that it what the issue is with my Bosch and if I can avoid waiting another week plus to get the right VR I'd give it a shot....

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Mar 2014, 14:00

I know, the vendor sites are a bit misleading on VRs.

The brushes are the same in the ones I have inspected, if that is the only problem with your present VR then switching them should work fine, if you know how to do it. Lots of videos out there, it is a low tech procedure if you know how to solder.

I decided I would just buy the VRB229 from eBay, a Chinese one is like $50. The Bosch unit is just too pricey. Or get a used one from a known, working alternator.

S373N · Post by **S373N** » 03 Mar 2014, 21:53

I am just assuming it's the brushes as the ones on my Bosch unit are worn down to near nothing and the one side is completely black with what looks like carbon. Because I am in Canada I would need to pay postage on returning the Huco to FCP (unless I know someone with a US address) and then order the Bosch and shipping again and blah, blah I ask myself if the hassle is worth the $50 and to boot my car has already been out of service for a week and a bit waiting for parts and not really looking to go another week so thought perhaps I'm further ahead to just try swapping the brushes...

I am terrible at soldering however my very good wrenching buddy is an engineer that builds mobile broadcasting studios and likely has a few hours of soldering under his belt

Or one of the industrial electricians at my work... Is it a simple matter of melting the solder at the top of the springs to pull them out of the Huco and the reverse to put them into the Bosch?

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Mar 2014, 22:53

So it may be a little more tricky than that to get the new brushes out of the regulator. I have only seen demos of new ones put in, where you buy the brushes separately. Watch this video, you can see how they are put together:

Good chance your radio guy can do it though, ask him what he thinks.

Another thing to look at is the slip ring, it is the copper ring where the brushes ride on the alternator shaft. If the brushes are far gone (sounds like it) then the slip ring may be heavily grooved and need replacement. I don't know where to get these but if you look around you should be able to find one cheap somewhere nearby.

S373N · Post by **S373N** » 03 Mar 2014, 23:06

There is a place around the corner from my work that does nothing but rebuild alternators and starters for auto/industrial/agriculture that quoted me $120 to rebuild my alternator - same day service. I was just trying to sort this out without removing the alternator. Looks like a PITA...

Mind you, I am doing the timing belt and tensioners at the moment so the alt belt is already off.. I just didn't want to get into draining the radiator etc to get the power steering pump off so I could pull the alt out.... Perhaps it's easier than it looks...

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Mar 2014, 23:12

On a non-turbo you can remove the alt by taking out only 4 bolts I think it is, I just did it a month ago. Leave the PS pump attached to the big bracket, leave the PS hose in place for the whole job. You do have to drain the rad and unhook the upper radiator hose, but that's it.

However you can also get out the VR and inspect the slip ring without removing the alt at all, just remove the 3 torx screws and then unsnap the black cover. There is enough room to work around it on a non-turbo. Again, easier if you remove the upper rad hose.

S373N · Post by **S373N** » 03 Mar 2014, 23:17

I did get the VR out with the alternator still in place, just moved the oil dipstick and some patience. I did notice the copper shaft but didn't look too carefully for damage there. Will go check now...

S373N · Post by **S373N** » 03 Mar 2014, 23:28

Oh yeah, the inner ring that lines up with the brush that is short and burnt up is itself black and has a .125ish groove in it. The outer ring has maybe a .020 groove but is still shiny copper and that brush has some wear but isn't at all discoloured....