1998 S70 T5 - Few Misc. Questions on Various Topics

[TwoVolvoGuy]

Hey guys, I have a few questions that I have been saving up to ask all at once instead of starting a bunch of threads and clogging up the forum. Here goes:

1. My paint code is 412, tropical green metalic. My car is full of scratches. I bought it like that fully knowing that I will have to repair those at some point. Some scratches are deep, especially on the plastic bumpers, also on the sides of my doors. Others will probably buff out. What is the best touchup paint to buy and from who? There are so many options, so I need to make sure I get it right the first time.

2. My ABS light comes on every once in a while. Usually it will be off when I start the car but then after driving and braking a few times, the light will come on. Sometimes it stays off for days even with hard braking. Sometimes it turns on right when I start the car, and does not turn off. I have read plenty of threads about the failed ABS modules, how to fix them, etc. Where do I start with this one? There is no recurring pattern.

3. When I bought the car, It came with two keys but no remotes. I really want to add a remote but the dealers are charging $130 for a new one plus $80-$100 to program it. Can I not just buy a used remote and have it programmed? I cannot find any information after searching many forums on the topic. All the dealers tell me is they will not program a used remote.

4. I have check engine codes P0442 (J hose and L hose, which I bought and will replace) and P0332 which is a knock sensor code. How do I go about diagnosing whether that is a bad ground, bad sensor or engine knock?

I will keep adding questions as I think of them, but that is about it so far.

[rmmagow]

1. Try paintscratch.com I've used them and the match is pretty good.
2. Matty-Moo www.midwest-abs.com Perfect repair for the ABS module and best price going.
3. Find a good indy volvo specialist. I couldn't get the dealer to do used for me either.
4. This one maybe better answered by somebody else. The thing is under the intake manifold. If you decide to replace it, you may also want to do the PVC job.

[rspi]

3. Can you tell the dealer that "I can not get my remote to work, can you fix or re-program it?"

They will work on your "used" car all day long, why won't they program a used remote?

[erikv11]

1. No comment
2. I agree. Troubleshoot a bit, there are instructions on the midwest-abs site for checking resistance of the sensors, but I would just get the module. If it isn't dead yet it will be soon and you can be guaranteed what he sends you will work.
3. Yes you can just buy a used remote, but so some checking it has to have the same FCC number on the back. For programming you are still stuck with the dealer I think.
4. p0442 can be a lot of places, hope you found the problem. p0332 is a rare code, I would look first at the wiring on the knock sensors. But yes maybe they went bad; junkyard item.

[regent]

4. This one maybe better answered by somebody else. The thing is under the intake manifold. If you decide to replace it, you may also want to do the PVC job.

My two cents on the knock sensors:
While they can fail like any other component, you want to make sure the sensors are torqued properly to the block before condemning them. If they are over- or under-torqued, the computer gets angry. Also, inspect the connectors to the sensors, and ground points all around the block. You may want to scan with VIDA to see if the VOLVO code relates to one or both sensors. If both, then you will be looking for power supply issues.
To eliminate the possibility of actual engine knock, you need to see what your spark advance looks like (VIDA has that feature too)

[rmmagow]

Ha Ha Ha, never thought of that rspi!!! Guess I'd be a pretty crappy salesman. The only dealer visit I had with my car cost me $95.00 for a pair of keys! And those were for a 98, no chip. When I asked for the radio codes the guy behind the counter was just getting geared up to tell me this was going to cost money too but based on my scowling face decided to print it out for me for nothing. Crooks.

[polskamafia mjl]

According to BEJinFBK, the FCC number doesn't matter:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=56036

[esl_97_850_T5]

2a. I also recommend MattyMoo at http://www.midwest-abs.com for ABS repair.

2b. As far as some very low cost, legal DIY ways to read/clear '96-'98 850/S70/V70/C70 ABS DTCs...

2b1. You can read/clear '98 S70 ABS DTCs using Brick-Diag Free Beta v0.0.6.6 ($1-2) and a VAG/COM KKL USB cable ($10-15). See this for links to Brick-Diag screen snapshots, then on that page read the next several Brick-Diag items, culminating with the "How to download Brick-Diag Free Beta v0.0.6.6 for English speakers" item. It takes patience and perseverance to acquire Brick-Diag Free Beta, but it's well worth the effort in my opinion.

Brick-Diag Free Beta interprets all (or most all) DTCs, contrary to how the free Vol-FCR v1.7 Demo interprets hardly any ABS DTCs.

2b2. You can read/clear '98 S70 ABS DTCs by sending the following commands to an ELM327 device ($10-$18) using terminal emulator software ($0):

ATZ
ATL1
ATE1
ATSP 3A
ATH1
ATAL
ATKW0
ATTA 13
ATRA 13
ATIIA 01
ATWM 82 01 13 A1
ATSH 83 01 13
AE01
AF01
AE01
ATSH 82 01 13
A0
ATPC

then clicking in the Paste Volvo 850/SVC70 communication here box, then copying all the commands and their responses -- most especially their responses -- from ATSH 83 01 13 thru ATPC into that "Paste Volvo 850/SVC70 communication here" box, then pressing Interpret.

esl_97_850_T5