98 V70R Sudden Loss of Power & Now Barely Runs

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 26 Mar 2014, 19:24

Week of bad luck, horrible luck. My wife had my V70R (170K), because the transmission in her 850 is on the frits. She picked me up from work, and I immedietly heard the car didn't sound right at idle. I thought probably some hose went, and there's a vacuum leak. I noticed the engine light on when I got in car, which made sense with the rough idle. She said that while she was driving down, the engine light came on and flashed, then stayed on. She was not sure exactly when, but she thinks when she had to accelerate quickly to merge, or something along those lines. She was also not sure if it came on, then flashed, or if the flashing was the first sign of it. At this time I was unaware that flashing meant a bad misfire actively occuring. I also did not have code reader in the car. We continued on way home, and aside from it stumbling a bit at idle when having to stop, it sounded and went OK. When we got close to house and had to climb a big hill, it had no power. We continued as we could crawling, at 10mph or so, and it started to sound horrible. So we pulled over and left it at a Church. Temperature stayed in the middle, and no oil pressure light.

When I came back with code reader it had P0300, P0301, P0305, P0302, P0303 - in that order, not sure if that matters. And then Pending codes for P0301, P0305, P0303. I cleared them. My initial feeling was good, doesn't seem to be an internal engine failure as it's affecting all cylinders (though as I typed it just now from my notes, I notice no code for #4. Missed that earlier). I was suspect of the rear intake cam seal that I replaced last fall. Thought perhaps I didn't install it well, and it blew and got oil all inside distributor cap. It was already dark, so I didn't dig any further. I went back today and just tried to start it, hoping for a miracle. It was very rough to start, and sounded terrible. I turned it off, disconnected the MAF and tried again. It started much easier, but still sounded terrible. I tried it in gear, and still no power, won't go over 2000 RPM or so in gear.

I took an audio recording of it running while the MAF was dissconnected. I thought some one might be able to easily tell by listening if it's an internal problem or not. It wouldn't let me attache it. I'll have to figure that out.

Assuming there's not a consensus that it's an internal failure, my plan as weather and time permits:

Jump Fuel Pump Relay with paperclip
Compresion Test Cylinders
Remove Distributor Cap & Inspect
...

Thanks

Post by **erikv11** » 26 Mar 2014, 20:10

Your distributor cap (i.e. cam seal) idea is a good one, I would start there. A compression test is highly unlikely to be relevant given your description but hey why not, it is easy enough to check.

Sometimes the car will not run with the MAF disconnected, even though it is supposed to. I know that is illogical but it is what I have observed. So don't completely rule out the bad MAF idea.

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 26 Mar 2014, 20:17

Here is link to file of audio recording:

Engine Noise

I start outside of vehicle with hood open, then go inside and raise it to 3000. In retrospect, I should have just raised the engine speed from under the hood...

Post by **northernlights** » 26 Mar 2014, 22:40

Check the coil wire and coil. You might have a short to ground so that it can't deliver under load. It would explain all cylinders misfiring simultaneously. On the earlier versions there is a separate ground wire at the coil to chassis that is probably important. I don't know for certain if the 98's still have it but I assume they do.

Post by **jimmy57** » 27 Mar 2014, 11:46

Look behind and below powersteering pump and see if the cup plug with vacuum nipple has popped out of the intake manifold.

Post by **rmmagow** » 27 Mar 2014, 12:18

Instant loss like that I would check the intercooler hoses very carefully for being good and tight. My lower intercooler hose came loose but looked fine and only when I really gave it a good twist and tug did I discover it was loose. Popped due to pedal to the metal emergency.

Post by **rmmagow** » 27 Mar 2014, 12:24

The closer I read your note the more I think it is a big hose that blew itself loose. Check the lower one very well where it connects to the intercooler and where it attaches to the throttle body. This is the downstream portion of turbo boost where you'd see the highest pressure but check all your hoses and pipes. Get a cheap code reader to clear your codes too, 35.00 at autozone. Be sure to check the dist cap for contamination just in case the seal did blow.

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 27 Mar 2014, 12:52

jimmy57 wrote:Look behind and below powersteering pump and see if the cup plug with vacuum nipple has popped out of the intake manifold.

The hose is attahached there. Though, it is one I have yet to replace on this car. It's different than ones I've seen and installed on 850's. There's no elbow, it's the hose direct to the manifold nipple. And it appears to sweat, what I guess is oil? I seem to remember that being a hard line on the 850's in the family. Perhaps PO had a better idea? I can get a picture of it.

rmmagow wrote:Instant loss like that I would check the intercooler hoses very carefully for being good and tight. My lower intercooler hose came loose but looked fine and only when I really gave it a good twist and tug did I discover it was loose. Popped due to pedal to the metal emergency....The closer I read your note the more I think it is a big hose that blew itself loose. Check the lower one very well where it connects to the intercooler and where it attaches to the throttle body. This is the downstream portion of turbo boost where you'd see the highest pressure but check all your hoses and pipes. Get a cheap code reader to clear your codes too, 35.00 at autozone. Be sure to check the dist cap for contamination just in case the seal did blow.

I did a visual inspection on the IC hoses last night. I couldn't see the lower one to IC that you are suspect of well from the top, and didn't have any tools with me to remove the air guide that blocks its view from underneath. I replaced all IC hoses with silicone ones last summer. Recently I replaced the hose from IAC to vacuum tree with silicone as it was dry, briitle, and had a tear. I replaced the vacuum tree and it's O-ring at same time.

I have a code reader, and have cleared the codes. No new codes set after running it for a few minutes at idle, and through parking lot (aside for MAF, but I had it unplugged). I don't believe it has enough power to make it back to my house as is.

I plan to leave work early so I can get out there in the daylight, with fairly good weather...and bring some tools!

I am the most concerned about the engine noise.

Post by **rmmagow** » 27 Mar 2014, 13:32

My IC hoses looked perfect too. It was only when I grabbed it and tried to move it that it was obvious it was loose. Can't tell much from the noise, sorry. Do you mean that little punch, almost like a gunshot? Are you getting a good healthy squirt from the fuel rail?

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 27 Mar 2014, 18:48

Compression test shows 0 PSI in #2 & #3.

All readings (dry - wet)

#1 153 - 177
#2 0 - 0
#3 0 - 0
#4 150 - 165
#5 135 - 165