Hello new to the site, but psyched to finally get on here.
Here's the problem. I have a very problematic 2003 Volvo XC70 with 169,000 miles and it is shuttering or vibration on any form of acceleration but completely stops when coasting. The feeling is almost a wobble that turns into a heavy shake and is made worse by uphill driving. I recently replaced the wheel bearings all around, a new left ball joint, brake lines, front struts/springs and new tires. It drove well for around a couple weeks and now the new issue evolved. I inspected beneath and noticed some play in the left control arm bushing, haven't got into pulling at the cv joints or driveshaft yet. The car also seems to have a little bit of transmission slippage going between first and second. I have done some research and have heard mixed responses, so I am hoping to figure out the root cause. Hoping someone can differentiate whether a single issue, (C/V axles, driveshaft, engine mounts, differential, or lower torque mounts) is causing this problem before I start pouring in the money trying to figure it out. Thank you!
2003 XC70 Vibration on acceleration
- oragex
- Posts: 5347
- Joined: 24 May 2013
- Year and Model: S60 2003
- Location: Canada
- Has thanked: 102 times
- Been thanked: 352 times
- Contact:
I think it's a typical issue caused by either the left or the right drive axles. Even with the grease boots intact, the axles are known to develop a play and cause steering vibration at acceleration. You can easily check by giving a strong shake at each axle, check for free play.
Note that rebuilt/chinese axles are typical to still give a vibration on this car because most rebuilds are just partial, better go with OEM parts new or used.
Other thing would be (also typical) worn upper engine support bushing (top of the engine near windshield) or lower transmission support bushing (the one in the front) - also easy to check.
Note that rebuilt/chinese axles are typical to still give a vibration on this car because most rebuilds are just partial, better go with OEM parts new or used.
Other thing would be (also typical) worn upper engine support bushing (top of the engine near windshield) or lower transmission support bushing (the one in the front) - also easy to check.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
-
vtl
- Posts: 4724
- Joined: 16 August 2012
- Year and Model: 2005 XC70
- Location: Boston
- Has thanked: 114 times
- Been thanked: 604 times
In my case it was worn front LCA bushings on both arms. When I purchased this car in late 2012, it had slightly torn bushings, but far away from being fully split. Car was floating on the road, more noticeably than our other Volvo, and over time developed that shake. I bought replacement bushings, cheap Harbor Freight 12-ton press and replaced right LCA bushings. Car became a bit more stable, but that's it. About month ago I took out strut on the other side for inspection, decided to do bushings as everything was almost taken apart anyways. That solved my harsh vibration problem under acceleration, especially uphill.
No need to replace rear LCA bushing, I never saw it deteriorated, and it is not easy to press it in. Front one is a piece of cake to replace.
No need to replace rear LCA bushing, I never saw it deteriorated, and it is not easy to press it in. Front one is a piece of cake to replace.
- oragex
- Posts: 5347
- Joined: 24 May 2013
- Year and Model: S60 2003
- Location: Canada
- Has thanked: 102 times
- Been thanked: 352 times
- Contact:
That's a good idea about the control arm bushings. I would check that first, before the axles.
Do you remember where did you got the bushings from?
Do you remember where did you got the bushings from?
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
-
ryanmcgrim
- Posts: 31
- Joined: 9 June 2013
- Year and Model: 04xc70
- Location: boston
I had the same thing going on last week. Shudder between 50 and 60 mph under acceleration, went away while coasting. I crawled under my car and found a busted CV boot, outer passenger. I was surprised because according to most people around the interwebs the shudder is usually caused by inner boot damage, but I had none.
I did a lot of research on where to get a replacement and tried to get an accurate idea of what my options were and got a whole lot of conflicting information, coming away with it convinced that if I didn't get OEM I would wind up getting a garbage ill fitting part.
My options were:
1. Volvo Dealer Rebuilt - $680
2. Aftermarket from FCP (Empire Brand) - $109.95
3. Send to Raxles for Rebuild - $200 - $300 (Not sure on price, I never got a quote as it's my daily driver and I couldn't wait to ship and wait for return, but i think this is around their price)
4. Napa Parts Stores - Cardone Rebuild $68
5. Empi - Couldn't find anywhere
I ended up going with Napa and their Cardone Rebuild, as I couldn't afford Volvo, couldn't be without my car for a raxle rebuild and heard some bad things about the Empire brand. When I inspected the axle and compared to my current volvo, I couldn't find a single difference in size, look or quality. I was shocked at how nicely rebuilt the Napa / Cardone axle appeared. I'm convinced it actually started as a volvo with the tag removed as it had a place for it. The boots were of high quality and unlike the Empire brand, the measurements were the same everywhere.
This was not what I was expecting, but I was pleasantly surprised. I've only had a few days to test drive, so who knows how long it will hold up, but it drives perfectly smooth at highway speed so far, and I have no complaints whatsoever. Quite a deal at $69 + core
I'll Update you all when / If it fails.
Also, to anyone considering replacing on your own, I couldn't find much info on it for p2 XC70s. All videos I could find were for earlier years and suggested control arm detachment. I was easily able to do the swap (on the passenger side, i hear getting the axle out of the driver side can be a chore) by just marking my strut / knuckle to keep the camber measurement, removing the top bolt, loosening the lower bolt and folding the knuckle out and away from the axle. A little tight, but very easy.
I did a lot of research on where to get a replacement and tried to get an accurate idea of what my options were and got a whole lot of conflicting information, coming away with it convinced that if I didn't get OEM I would wind up getting a garbage ill fitting part.
My options were:
1. Volvo Dealer Rebuilt - $680
2. Aftermarket from FCP (Empire Brand) - $109.95
3. Send to Raxles for Rebuild - $200 - $300 (Not sure on price, I never got a quote as it's my daily driver and I couldn't wait to ship and wait for return, but i think this is around their price)
4. Napa Parts Stores - Cardone Rebuild $68
5. Empi - Couldn't find anywhere
I ended up going with Napa and their Cardone Rebuild, as I couldn't afford Volvo, couldn't be without my car for a raxle rebuild and heard some bad things about the Empire brand. When I inspected the axle and compared to my current volvo, I couldn't find a single difference in size, look or quality. I was shocked at how nicely rebuilt the Napa / Cardone axle appeared. I'm convinced it actually started as a volvo with the tag removed as it had a place for it. The boots were of high quality and unlike the Empire brand, the measurements were the same everywhere.
This was not what I was expecting, but I was pleasantly surprised. I've only had a few days to test drive, so who knows how long it will hold up, but it drives perfectly smooth at highway speed so far, and I have no complaints whatsoever. Quite a deal at $69 + core
I'll Update you all when / If it fails.
Also, to anyone considering replacing on your own, I couldn't find much info on it for p2 XC70s. All videos I could find were for earlier years and suggested control arm detachment. I was easily able to do the swap (on the passenger side, i hear getting the axle out of the driver side can be a chore) by just marking my strut / knuckle to keep the camber measurement, removing the top bolt, loosening the lower bolt and folding the knuckle out and away from the axle. A little tight, but very easy.
I am seeing little issues in the front end, but I have noticed that rear passenger side tire is having heavy outside wear. The right rear tire is now shot and only 3 months old. When we repaired my rear right wheel bearing we twisted the rear control, trailing arm back to fit and in doing so I believe we tweaked the control arm. Does this sound right for heavy vibrations?
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






