98 V70R Sudden Loss of Power & Now Barely Runs

[jose456891]

For Seals , from https://sites.google.com/site/incarvalv ... lacement/:

My main source for genuine Volvo parts was Darryl Waltrip Volvo. Since they are not shipping parts anymore, I suggest http://tascaparts.com. When I'm putting in way more hours than dollars, I will not cheap out on parts. I also use FCP Groton, IPD and Eeuroparts.com. They're all great.

[BigRed]

I'm stuck on getting exhaust manifold free. It just doesn't seem to be budging. I've tried hitting it with rubber mallet. I can get it to move slightly on top, but not the bottom.

Any suggestions?

[erikv11]

I would be hitting it with something heavier (directed, heavy taps don't just pound), and get a pry bar in there. Sounds like you were careful to disconnect everything.

rspi may have a video of pulling the head on a turbo car, did you run through that?

[BigRed]

Haven't seen a video.

Te rubber mallet has seems to break it free from head, as there is part of gasket dangling. I think the turbo & rest if exhaust just is inhibiting from being pushed back (this is AWD will crazy S-bend down pipe).

Plan is to try to lift head out, and push exhaust manifold off studs at same time. I've read others have succeeded with method. I have the rest of exhaust supported by wire.

[rspi]

I never remove the exhaust manifold, just pull the bolts and lift the head up/forward and out. I usually climb in the motor to lift the head out. (From what I have heard from my cousin that passed through Albuquerque yesterday, I have a history of doing things alone).

[shadetree_v70]

If you need a set of NA cams let me know, I have a couple of sets. If the cover is off, might was well toss some NA cams in there, I would.

Threadjack alert...........what is the advantage to swapping in NA cams?

I am currently running on 4 cylinders with the same scenario as the OP, and preparing to do this same job. Which is maddening because I replaced the headgasket last summer. Good thing I kept my home made cam holder tool, which looks exactly like his!

I will certainly try leaving the exhaust manifold on this time. What a pain, especially since every single stud back out, leaving me to line up the holes then try to get a bolt started, and I only have 2 arms

[BigRed]

I couldn't imagine successfully doing this with only one person and two arms.

We were able to lift the head up, then forward to clear the exhaust manifold. At first, it felt like the head weighed 200 pounds, but I guess it was just stuck. Once it broke free it was a suprise at how much lighter it felt. Goining back in may be quite a bit more problematic, especially with the exhaust gasket set probably falling off.

The verdict: one burned exhaust valve in each problem cylinder.

I just got off the phone with with Clearwater for replacement head. Suonds like they don't have one ready to ship, and it will be a week+ before I see it.

The problem pistons look clean, but the other 3 have a lot of build-up. Would that be from unburned gasoline being in the cylinder, cleaning the piston?

I plan to order the gaskets piecemeal to try to save a few bucks, as I won't need all parts of the kit; the head will include new valve stem seals, I have rear camshaft seals on hand, etc. The kit includes, and I previosuly asked about, a Turbo Oil Line Gasket. I don't think I disconnected anything fitting that description, and am not even sure what it is. erikv11 said he always goes OE with it, becuase it's a pain on the AWD. So perhaps while it is (more) accessible I should do it as PM. But, I'm just not sure what it is. Is it for the line that connects to turbo with banjo bolt, but the end at block? If so, that may already be leaking. There is something about there making a mess down below.

When unbolting the upper engine mount bracket, the SAS line was in way of the lower rear bolt. I was afraid I would break it by pushing it clear enough. So I had the bright idea to remove it. I started at the air pump, and it came off very easy. At the turbo, not so much. So while trying to remove it to not break it accidentally, I broke it. I wasn't able to find that part on FCP or IPD (and I'm sure it's grossly expensive). Is there some time I've bulk hose that could be used in place? Perhaps do a plate and diode?

I have record of PCV being done 40K/6 years ago but hoses cracked in multiple places when removing, and there was a prior section repair. It looks as through it was leaking from the lower port on oil seperator at the block. I expect I will find a horrible blockage there.

Timing belt, idler and tensioner done 30K/5 years ago so I guess I would be safe to not replace. But, it almost feels negligent after doing head. Oil did leak down on at least the water pump when the cam cover came off. I'm not sure if it got on the belt. Perhaps I do at least the belt to err on the side of caution.

[erikv11]

NA cams have a slightly higher lift, like 0.5 mm, they provide a 10-15 horsepower increase. Most people who install them say they can notice the difference. It is popular to also advance the timing on the intake cam when you do this, to move the power band a little lower in the RPM range.

It's just so much more reasonable to lift the head out with help, definitely worth getting another pair of hands in there.

Two burned valves wow. Do you think they went at the same time? Maybe you should have bought a lottery ticket instead of the Volvo.

The oil return line is a metal tube that runs from the turbo down to the oil pan. The gasket I mentioned is down at the oil pan, it is a thick rubber o-ring. Actually there is a paper gasket too, up at the turbo end of the tube, but that can be any brand the paper gaskets don't leak. I assumed you would be pulling the turbo when I wrote that. In fact you may want to think about it, it should be much easier to do from the top now that the head is out. You can also replace the turbo coolant hoses, short little rubber hoses that are vulnerable to soaking up oil and rotting. And rarely serviced unfortunately. I am curious, can you post up a photo that shows the access to the turbo right now, with the head off?

On the SAS I highly highly recommend removing it all now while the engine bay is roomier and installing the diode, but your call. If you need any SAS parts I have them used, would be happy to send them to you cheap.

I have always cleaned the piston tops when I have the head off. Seems right, unburnt fuel must have been washing those cylinders.

[northernlights]

...and no coolant that I noticed. The plugs were all a mess, and they don't have many miles on them. They are the Bosch coppers that are often recommended as viable alternative. The one had a bit of sludge that didn't just look like oil...but I wouldn't say for sure it was coolant.

I'm curious...what part number plug did you use?

[BigRed]

Despite the improbability, I think they must have burned within about 15 minutes of each other. Previous to the incident, there were no codes, stored or pending. Idle could have been a little smoother, but that could have been anything, not the least of which is fouled plugs.

I got a shipped price for the NA cams from rspi, just need to finish pricing everything to see if I can swing it.

I won't be able to get any photos of the area today, the car is in the in-laws today and I'm staying home with my daughter after work. It seems very accessible right now, though. Problem would be breaking the EGR like connection from the down pipe to the SAS valve free, I probably should have soaked it in PB already. Is their a source for a solid plate to replace the SAS valve on the turbo? I'm not sure what the coolant hoses are down there, I only remmeber the two with the banjo bolt. Are the a specific part, or just use bulk heater hose?