2001 C70 Crank turned counter clockwise-now it's locked

bwebber · Post by **bwebber** » 12 Apr 2014, 12:17

Good day everyone,

New to the board but have used numerous times. I have a 2001 C70 2.3 HPT and I was in the process of removing my timing belt to replace leaking cam seals. I had marked my cam pulleys and crank and applied the cam locking tool. I left tension on the timing belt. I then proceeded to take off the crank pulley or at least that was the idea. I removed the 4 10mm bolts and the tried to remove the crank pulley with a big socket. I thought the cam locking tool would keep everything in place and i went to loosen the crank bolt counter clockwise. when i did so, the crank moved counter clockwise and made some clicking sounds. The crank pulley marking didn't match the cam pulleys at that point. I removed the cam locking tool to see if I could get the timing lined back up again but now I can't turn the crank bolt clockwise anymore. It seems to be locked up. I really hope I didn't mess things up. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Barry

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Apr 2014, 18:33

If you indeed had the belt on then you should be able to simply crank things back to the marks as a system. The cam locking tool doesn't have the strength, as you found out, to hold the crankshaft when you try to remove the nut unless you use an impact wrench. Even then I wouldn't trust it. Volvo makes a special tool with a fairly long handle that bolts onto the face of the harmonic balancer and locks it to the frame in order to remove and replace the harmonic balancer.

For the life of me I don't really know what exactly the cam locking tool is supposed to do other than make you think that it is doing something important. I never use one but then again I never remove the harmonic balancer either. The belt will thread on without removing the balancer if you twist the belt with the ribbed side facing the block and slip it by the notch at the bottom of the crankshaft. You may need to play with it a little bit to get past the notch but after you do it once it is easy.

With a '01 you should have CVVT, did you follow the procedure to pre-load the CVVT hub?

...Lee

bwebber · Post by **bwebber** » 12 Apr 2014, 19:19

Thank you for the response. Yeah, I'm so mad at myself for even attempting to remove the crank pulley instead of snaking it out. I wish I could go back to this morning. Any idea as to why the crank won't turn clockwise now? I won't be able to correct the timing without that ability.

I'm not sure what you mean about the CCVT hub pre-load procedure. I was following the CCVT Replacement tutorial on youtube. Thanks again!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Apr 2014, 22:46

Is it possible that the belt jumped on the crankshaft pulley while you were trying to remove the nut? If so, it might be that you have a valve hitting a piston. If that is the case about all you can do is go ahead and remove the timing belt and then alternate between rocking the camshafts and the crankshaft a little bit at a time until you can get the crankshaft back to the timing mark. Once the crankshaft is at or near the timing mark you can rotate both camshafts a full 360 degrees and not hit a piston with a valve so at that point it is easy to re-establish the timing. Whatever you do try to force the crankshaft back with a ton of torque, you can bend a valve with a big breakover bar.

The CVVT pre-load procedure is to rotate the engine 90 degrees past the timing mark, clockwise, and then go back counterclockwise until you are back at the marks.

If you wind up removing the belt to get the crankshaft to align then you will be losing that anyway but it isn't hard to recover. What you do in that case is put the new belt on and line the timing marks up, rotate by hand a couple of revolutions clockwise and on the second revolution go past 90 degrees. From that point back up counterclockwise to the marks again. once you are on the marks you loosen the tensioner and pull the timing belt off of the camshafts and, as the belt goes back on, re-establish the timing marks on the camshafts. The outer sprocket on the CVVT hub turns independent of the associated camshaft.

When you are done the bolts between the sprocket and the CVVT hub should not be at either limit but somewhere in between the limits. They usually aren't in the center of the slots which is OK just as long as they are not at the stop on either side.

...Lee

bwebber · Post by **bwebber** » 13 Apr 2014, 09:59

Thank you so much for the advice Lee. I'm trying to determine if this is something I want to tackle myself for risk of more damage or try and get a mobile Volvo mechanic to come out and get me back on course since my car is torn apart. I'm not feeling too confident at the moment.

Post by **cn90** » 13 Apr 2014, 11:39

Look locally for Volvo dealer mechanic who wants to do side job.

bwebber · Post by **bwebber** » 14 Apr 2014, 15:14

Lee,

Regrading your inquiry about the
CVVT pre-load procedure to rotate the engine 90 degrees past the timing mark, clockwise, and then go back counterclockwise until you are back at the marks...I remember now I didn't do that. I just turned the motor clockwise until the timing marks aligned and locked the cams in place with the locking tool. Was this perhaps my big mistake? Thanks again.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Apr 2014, 17:29

Actually the pre-load procedure doesn't affect the timing belt change procedure itself at all. The only thing that happens when the pre-load procedure isn't followed is that the car will throw a camshaft position range error after the engine is back running. The range error shuts down the CVVT and the car is a bit doggy but it otherwise will run OK.

It won't cause piston and valve interference. The interference starts to happen at two or three teeth out of time.

...Lee

bwebber · Post by **bwebber** » 14 Apr 2014, 18:25

Stupid question maybe...Is that cam position range check engine light you're speaking of something I can resolve or will the light remain on indefinitely?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Apr 2014, 19:12

It will fix itself after the underlying problem is solved and the solution is to do the pre-load procedure when you set the final timing. If you have a code scanner you can reset it immediately if you do get a check engine light.

As I mentioned before, you will need to time the engine twice. Once just to get the marks lined up so that you can hand crank the engine and then the second time, where you remove the belt after you go 90 degrees past the marks and then back again. After the belt is removed the second time you then realign the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets as the belt is going back on.

I had a real hard time getting my head around the procedure until I actually had the belt off and saw that the outer sprocket on the CVVT hub rotated independently, over a limited range, from the hub itself that is bolted to the camshaft. At that point the procedure made sense.

...Lee