Replace Timing Belt without Taking out Crankshaft Pulley

Post by **confused_al** » 20 Apr 2014, 13:06

I think many of you have seen FCP’s video “S60 timing belt change”, in which the crankshaft pulley was taken out in order to access the belt. This is also in Volvo’s instruction (VIDA or VIDAS). As a lazy old guy I didn’t really want to go that route while I was changing TB on my 2006 V70 (Engine B5244S), rather used similar way as I did on my 850’s. It worked!
This is how I did it:
Step 1, Remove the “belt protector”, which held in place by two bolts,

: braket.jpg (76.36 KiB) Viewed 4282 times

Step 2, Slide the belt in from the left side first (easy one),

: left 2.jpg (94.93 KiB) Viewed 4282 times

Step 3, Twist the belt 90 degree(teeth facing the pulley) push vertically strait up first to clear the metal rod, once the belt is there then twist and turn as shelving into the gap,

: bottom mid.jpg (97.98 KiB) Viewed 4282 times

Step 4, twist the belt again and slide into the gap on the right side,

: right mid.jpg (145.82 KiB) Viewed 4282 times

It took me about 5 minutes got my belt in, I think it would take a lot longer if to disassemble the crankshaft pulley. I cut a piece of old TB to test around first which helps to size the dimensions. BTW, all the pics were taken after the TB is installed.

kseyoum · Post by **kseyoum** » 22 Apr 2014, 16:57

Thank you for the post.

After watching the FCP video, I thought that I had to remove the crank pulley off on my 2002 XC70 in order to replace the timing belt. After stripping off two of the four bolts using my electric impact gun and a lot of frustration, I thought about doing it the same way I did my 98 S70. It was straight forward as you mentioned. Having a ratcheting 10 mm box wrench made it even easier.

Now, my only concern is how I will be able to remove the crank pulley off if I need to get in there-- seal replacement for example...

-Kef

Post by **xHeart** » 23 Apr 2014, 11:09

+1
P2s are much easier and spacious under the crankshaft pulley for the belt to slide off, and back on.
No need to remove the pulley, unless you have oil pump task.

Post by **vtl** » 24 Apr 2014, 09:21

xHeart wrote:+1
P2s are much easier and spacious under the crankshaft pulley for the belt to slide off, and back on.
No need to remove the pulley, unless you have oil pump task.

It takes 2 minutes to remove it if you have impact wrench, even weak electric one.

Post by **xHeart** » 24 Apr 2014, 10:37

vtl wrote:
xHeart wrote:+1
P2s are much easier and spacious under the crankshaft pulley for the belt to slide off, and back on.
No need to remove the pulley, unless you have oil pump task.
It takes 2 minutes to remove it if you have impact wrench, even weak electric one.

Impact wrench make and model # would help expedite the purchase of one, electric would be fine.

Post by **vtl** » 24 Apr 2014, 10:52

I have 8 Amp wrench from Craftsman. I would not recommend it, 350 lb*ft stated is a pure lie. But even this weak impact wrench helps with the pulley.

kseyoum · Post by **kseyoum** » 24 Apr 2014, 11:57

During my attempt to remove the 4 small bolts, I rounded 2 of them while the other 2 came off. The pulley bolt came off with no problem using an electric impact wrench.

If I need to remove the pulley in the future, I know I will have to weld nuts onto the stripped ones. Unless someone has a better idea... Not sure if the small bolts are screwed into the pulley itself, in which case I may just file them off (??)

Post by **vtl** » 24 Apr 2014, 12:05

Did you use high quality metric sockets? I never had bolt's head damaged with proper metric impact sockets I've got from Sears. "Close enough" imperial size does not work here.

I don't really understand why people talk about crank pulley so much. Literally zero problems if you have proper tools. V70 had seized bolts - yeah, it took few extra seconds to remove them.

kseyoum · Post by **kseyoum** » 24 Apr 2014, 12:16

I used metric impact sockets when I stripped two of them off while the other two came off with ease. At any rate, if I have to get behind the pulley (seal replacement, for example), I will need to find a way to get those stripped bots off. And my thought is welding a nut onto them. Any other ideas? Thx.

Post by **confused_al** » 24 Apr 2014, 19:31

I agree that with a good impact wrench taking out the pulley is not that difficult at all. But, to torque the center nut back (180 Nm) a counter hold tool is needed.

: counterholdtool.jpg (15.4 KiB) Viewed 4246 times

or a home made tool as the one in Haynes manual.