1998 V70 AWD P0455 P0440 P0442 Fix with Photos

[deepsouth]

Hey all--
Finally got fed up with the host of evap codes on my 1998 V70 AWD and went ahead and replaced the canister hoses, rollover valve hoses, purge valve (and surrounding hoses), and the three inches of rubber line connecting the small vent filler tube to the hard plastic line coming from top of fuel tank. I didn't order any special hoses, rather went to Autozone and bought a variety of molded J and U hoses (they were kind enough to let me go the back and pick out what I needed).

1) I started with the Evap Canister (to the left of the front driver's wheel when looking at the car head on). Use a 10mm wrench to remove the small bolt at the bottom of the canister and drop the canister down. Some folks have talked about removing the fender skirt to gain access, but I didn't find that necessary.
2) I eliminated the large air hose #21 by using small piece of power steering line (gotta use what you have on hand) and a plastic inline connector from AZ (see photo).
3) I used two molded molded U hoses and hose clamps to connect the lines coming from the tank and the purge valve (hoses #16 and #4).
4) Next, I followed the purge line up to the purge valve (checking the integrity of the hard plastic line) and swapped it out as well ($39 part number 911-800 from AZ). The purge valve (#11) is directly behind radiator under air duct (see photos).
5) Next, I removed the carpeted rear doors (10mm bolts) that hide the spare tire, removed the carpet, and gained access to the fuel line/filter access panels. One of the panels is underneath the wiring harness (held on by two plastic retaining clips). Remove the retaining clips and flip wiring harness out of the way.
6) It is necessary to remove both access panels in order to gain access to the small piece of rubber tubing that connects the small metal vent filler tube to the plastic vent line from the top of the fuel tank (This 3" hose was a PITA to replace).
6) Finally I removed the hoses from the rollover valve, doubled checked the integrity of the plastic valve, and replaced lines with generic 1/4 inch AZ fuel line and hose clamps. (Again, see photos).

Total cost of job was around $55. Over 1500 miles and no more evap codes. I've tried to label the individual photos below. Good luck!

Eric

[matthew1]

Glorious DIY writeup, Eric. Just now added to the Volvo Repair Database.

[deepsouth]

Thanks! This site has helped me countless times and I'm pleased to give back!
Eric

[JimBee]

I agree. Great post. A good comprehensive solution nicely documented.

[stephansvolvo]

I'll be using this in the couple of months. Thanks Eric

[rmmagow]

Wow, what a beautiful job Eric. I'll be attacking this on my 98 AWD next no-rain weekend. This really clarified what all makes up that turkey of a system. Thank You!

[deepsouth]

To clarify, here's how I think the system works. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

There are two solenoids in the system. One controls the fuel vapors (purge valve) and the other is used for venting the canister (shut-off valve). There is also a fuel pressure sensor (I took a photo of this in my write-up) at the fuel tank.

The purge solenoid has two lines (and an electrical connector) attached: one to intake manifold and the second to EVAP canister. The electrical connections go to ignition switch and the other is grounded through the ECU. When the ECU grounds, it opens the valve allowing vacuum draw from EVAP system.

The second solenoid (the shut-off) is usually open. The ECU tests for leaks by closing off this “shut-off” valve (which seals the system) and can then test for leaks via the purge solenoid and the fuel pressure sensor.

Once the shut off solenoid is closed, the purge valve opens and allows the vacuum to draw air from evap. The ECU then receives info from the fuel pressure sensor and compares it to spec values to determine if there’s a difference (aka “a leak”).

There are many circumstances and hoses that can throw the various codes (P0455, P0442, P0440, etc). Some of those I documented in my write-up, the other involve the sensors and solenoids not doing their respective jobs.

Photos of purge valve (#11 above), shut-off valve (#18 in above diagram), and fuel pressure sensor (not shown in diagram but located under second access panel by fuel tank).

[deepsouth]

Should have included this in the original write-up so I went ahead and also replaced the hose from the "air" portion of the EVAP canister to the shutoff valve (hose #20 in diagram to valve #18). Used 3/8 heater hose from AZ. To gain access on the V70 it's necessary to remove the bolts and bend back the driver's side fender skirt. Used 3' of hose to run from the shut-off valve over the wheel well and plug into the "air" portion of the canister. Total time around 30 minutes. With the above, this completes the hoses in the EVAP system.

Eric

[abscate]

This is a great thread but Im finding some differences with my ME7 1999 V70 T5. Specifically, I can't find the canister shutoff valve - it isn't in the driver side fender area. I find the hose from the EVAP canister diving up into the engine behind (left side) of the harmonic balancer and then I lose it.

I will start a new thread on this.

[rmmagow]

OK, this is my first post-winter, post-heart attack project and I am a little stumped looking for the shut-off valve, the hose #20 other end. I've got two plastic nuts off the front side of the fender liner and can see the hose, I removed one plastic nut from the rear side of the fender liner and am peeling it back some to see if I can see the shut-off valve. I'm am not having any luck laying eyes on the valve. How much do I have to pull on the liner? How far does it need to move? I have the other end at the canister and canister is loosened and probably could be removed. I'm working on the ground with the car on a jack stand FWIW. Thanks much.