2002 XC70 Unveven Axle/Wheel Rotation after CV Joint Work

[kseyoum]

After replacing both front CV joints due to a vibration problem, my 2002 XC70 has developed a very odd front wheel camber change situation. It is virtually undrivable. [I'll try to explain as best as can, please bear with me].

As I drive it forward, the front wheel cambers become positive; and as I drive it backwards, the camber goes negative. I can also hear the tires making very odd scratching and skidding noises. I instantly noticed there was a very strange problem when I first put it in drive, such that the car seems to rise in the front. So, I did not push the car much, just turned around the block slowly and parked it.

I then raised all four wheels off the ground and put it in drive to see if there was any uneven rotation of the four wheels. I noticed that the passenger side wheel rotates much slowly than the rest, and even stops if the steering wheel is rotated in one direction (forgot which side). The driver side wheel does not stop if steering wheel is turned in either direction.

I'm puzzled! What has gone wrong?

In addition to the CV joints, I've replaced inner and outer tie rods (both sides) and sway bar end links. Additionally, I had struggled with a rusted driver side axle but eventually removed it with homemade slide hammer and vise grip. I seriously doubt the pulling and prying of the driver side axle contributed to this new problem.

Appreciate you inputs!

[regent]

Two dumb questions (apart from a possible drivetrain issue):
1. When you reinstalled/re-connected the suspension and steering components, did you re-attach the steering knuckles to the struts in the same position (to keep the alignment unchanged)?
2. Have you ruled out a dragging brake?

Other than that, 'the change in camber' seems very unlikely or else something is loose...
Can you raise her up again, double-check for play (just in case) and maybe post some pictures if you could?
Thanks

[kseyoum]

Problem resolved--rookie mistake, I suppose!

In my attempt to get the alignment somewhat acceptable before I took it for alignment, I had the toes IN so much that the car wheels went in positive camber direction (car moving forward), and negative camber direction (car moving backward). Remember, I had replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends on both sides. I had counted the number of turns, but that really did not make much difference with the new parts.

I took it for alignment this morning after I adjusted the alignment a bit so the car was drivable. Toes were still way out of spec. Camber was still in spec. Problem resolved.

However, my original problem--vibration when accelerating under load (1st, 2nd gear, etc) is still there even after replacing both front axles. I noticed a peculiar thing: The new passenger side axle inner CV boot is 'spitting' grease, but no tears. The old axle did the same thing which was what led me to believe that the shaft was vibrating. I need to find the source of this vibration. Is it coming from the wheel? bearing hub? I suppose I will need to start another topic for this one or search for similar problems...

Thanks for your input regent!

[xHeart]

...
However, my original problem--vibration when accelerating under load (1st, 2nd gear, etc) is still there even after replacing both front axles. I noticed a peculiar thing: The new passenger side axle inner CV boot is 'spitting' grease, but no tears. The old axle did the same thing which was what led me to believe that the shaft was vibrating. I need to find the source of this vibration. Is it coming from the wheel? bearing hub? I suppose I will need to start another topic for this one or search for similar problems...
...

Can you post few wide-angle photos of set up inside the wheel well. showing all relevant suspension/steering contacts.

[kseyoum]

Image of passenger side suspension components below. As for my vibration problem, I'm strongly suspecting the bearing(s). I don' hear any significant humming from either side of the wheels when driving. However, from a complete stop when engaging a gear, I can hear what sounds like a bad CV joint--subtle metal to metal binding kind. Since the axles are both new, I'm thinking the sound I hear is actually coming from the hubs. I don't know how old the bearings are, but I suspect they are the originals. Car is at just over 212,000 miles. The odd thing is that I have yet to replace any of the bearings on my 98 S70 at over 320,000 miles (a virtually problem-free car minus the basic flaws such as spring seats, etc) which I had since new.

Any idea how to identify bad bearings on P2s?

[regent]

On the picture, the inner bellow appears somewhat collapsed. There is probably an air pocket that you want to 'fart out' (With temperature, air would expand and cause some pressure to build up, which may push some grease out). You want to see if those clamps are tight on there, too.

To check the bearing for noticeable play (if that's causing the vibration you are describing), you may put the wheel and the lugs back on, and while off the floor, grab and wobble the wheel in two different planes (left to right, then up and down) you should be able to feel and hear the play (and sometimes see it).
Premature bearing failure is usually a result of a failed or improperly installed seal ring (the seal on the axle spindle that prevents the elements from getting into the hub bearing).

Have you ruled out wear and play in the ball joints and control arm bushings?

[kseyoum]

I did check for any any kind of wheel play by grabbing and the tires at 12 and 6 o'clock and 3 and 9 o'clock positions - very tight, no play at all.

Control arms are new (Meyle HD). The fact that they don't have steering stops kinda bother me. The old OEM part did have one, but these ones don't have any place to put one on. I have very good turning radius now, my main concern of not having steering stops is that it might strain the outer CV joint--I could just be paranoid.

What is changed so far:
- ALL motor mounts including top stabilizer mount, transmission torque mount
- Control arms
- Both axles
- sway bar end links,
- All shock absorber components minus springs

I know the sway bar rubber bushings are shot because the car kinda lumbers with uneven surfaces, and I can actually see the bushings look shot. I actually disconnected the end links and drove the car, but vibration at high gears (at load) still exists.

I keep coming back to the bearing/hub because of the 'squelching/wet' sound it makes when forward and rear gears are engaged back and forth. Would the hub/bearings give under load thus creating the vibration?

[xHeart]

...
I keep coming back to the bearing/hub because of the 'squelching/wet' sound it makes when forward and rear gears are engaged back and forth. Would the hub/bearings give under load thus creating the vibration?

I had replaced the two front hub/bearing assembly with FAG during the suspension/steering project at 136K-mi to eliminate any "what-if".

There was a mild vibration and noise above 50mph. After the four bolts were removed, I had to hammer the hub off since all civil methods had failed - overnight under PB Blaster over the rust from hell, dried bearing with no grease.

Be gentle with knuckle, it is aluminum.

I am surprised that you did not replace the ball-joint while control arm was off!?

[kseyoum]

Yah, I should have replaced the ball joints. Perhaps my next steps are bearing and ball joint replacement. I like to know what exactly fixes the vibration, so I may end up doing one after another. Then again, I may end up doing it all at once.

My only worry about the vibration is the possibility that there is a problem with the angle gear. If time allows, I'll decouple the rear axle from the front (future plan ).

I'm putting four new tires on it now...

[chrism]

Two questions....
Where did you source the replacement axles?
Do you still have the OEMs laying around the garage?

The reason I ask, I've had good luck using OEMs that were rebuilt by Axles Unlimited.

So when the wheel is jacked up off the ground and the trans in park, if you rotate each wheel fore and aft vigorously, where do you detect/hear the most play and the metal-to metal noise you described?