'98 S70 What brand parts for a complete brake Job?

[cn90]

...If I cannot break loose the lines from the rear calipers, I will replace those as well.
...

Ben,

The 11-mm nut is notorious for seizing!
I already mentioned this in another post: my suggestion is to leave this 11-mm nut alone.
Do an "organ transplant", i.e., get the pistons, seals, boots from the "new" caliper and transfer them over the stock caliper.

It is much easier this way than cutting the metal lines etc.

[Ben850]

...If I cannot break loose the lines from the rear calipers, I will replace those as well.
...

Ben,

The 11-mm nut is notorious for seizing!
I already mentioned this in another post: my suggestion is to leave this 11-mm nut alone.
Do an "organ transplant", i.e., get the pistons, seals, boots from the "new" caliper and transfer them over the stock caliper.

It is much easier this way then cutting the metal lines etc.

I know, I am almost ready to take it apart at the split. I do not care if I have to spend the money for the new lines. The rear brakes need to function correctly when I also install a few hundred dollars of parts.
I already have new calipers in box. Rotors, pads, fluid, silicone brake lubricant. I will not let it get the best of me.
I will give it another try after a shot of the cold spray, WD blue torch penetrant and all the cool line wrenches I have bought. 11mm, 10mm, 7/16" , 3/8", etc...
It will be done.

I swear, I will just chop everything out at the delta links and replace it all.

I feel like I just vented.

[cn90]

Ben,

I don't know why you want to go to the area above delta links. Too much pain for no gain.

It is much much easier by doing the "organ transplant". This is exactly what I did 3 years ago. So far so good. See steps #12 and #13:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=37721

[erikv11]

The one time I swapped rear calipers I had zero problem removing the brake lines using a Craftsman flare nut wrench, it is totally worth it to just try.

[Ben850]

The one time I swapped rear calipers I had zero problem removing the brake lines using a Craftsman flare nut wrench, it is totally worth it to just try.

I have some respectable flare, line wrenches. The brass is solidly involved with the iron.

I still plan to break the lines loose, I have done it before. 1978, on the 1973 Gran Torino that my grandfather gave me as my first car. It is not a new issue to me, just irksome and distracting at this point.
I certainly appreciate all advice. Most of which I have learned from here about these cars.

EDIT: All apologies, This thread was not about me. Sorry.

[abscate]

The thread was all about you. That's why we are sorry too.

(Actually...we love you man!!!!!)

My calipers unbolted from the line with a flare wrench after 16 years of northeast salt and crud. These OEM fittings are high quality metal.

[Ben850]

The thread was all about you. That's why we are sorry too.

(Actually...we love you man!!!!!)

My calipers unbolted from the line with a flare wrench after 16 years of northeast salt and crud. These OEM fittings are high quality metal.

Thanks man, you qualify my existence.

I will get 'er done.

[TRuck]

...old thread I know....but
opinions on these? picked this up from someone's comment on here who likes them...forgot where.
http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotor ... Rotors.php
and the meyle? have good reviews on fcp...but other experiences?
thanks

[mecheng]

To add: TRW pads on the 850, amazing bite and stopping distance. You don't hear much about TRW pads, very underrated.

Jurid pads on the S70, not impressed, very little bite.