2003XC70 PVC project...what about this check valves?

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 05 May 2014, 20:48

OK, tonight we got the PVC system out in about 2 hours. No need to remove t-stat housing nor loosen any alternator brackets ect...all bolts accessible with patience.

I few questions...

I've attached a photos of some vac line stuff I have no clue what it's for...but the hoses look like crap and the best I can tell the check valves are most likely shot. Will any check valve that fits the size from the local "auto house" work or are these magic volvo check valves? Anything else I should know about these? (valves in yellow).

I guess since I"m here I should pull the what I'm reading is the PTC nipple/valve and clean. Should these really just be replaced or do they clean up easily? How the fuookt do you get that air hose off the filter box, I'm afraid it's going to break!!

My lower port off the oil box was horrible. We couldnt' get air to bubble the oil down there. Trying not to drop the sump and spent and hour putting carb cleaner, sea foam and jamming it with wires, hoses and 60lbs of air pressure...finally the oil is bubbling nice. Do you think I'm still do for a sump drop soon or it is cleared for now good enough? My oil box was clogged up pretty bad.

Post by **jimmy57** » 05 May 2014, 22:00

The only way you'll know is to drop the pan. You may also have disturbed a lot of oil varnish.

What is wrong with the check valves?
I have no idea if the check valves you can buy anywhere else will have the same specs. Many check valves have a significant pressure to open them. The check valves here are to let gasoline vapors pass to intake manifold when it has vacuum and to seal when under boost and then the vapors go to inlet of turbo drawn by the pressure drop behind air cleaner which is not very much.

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 05 May 2014, 22:06

We tried blowing on these values and nothing passed...sees that moderate air from blowing had no input either way...so was hoping they were generic enough to just replace and be sure.

There is no question we pushed a lot of junk into that pan including the impurities from the cleaners. We see a couple of oil changes right away. May drop pan shortly after.

men2be · Post by **men2be** » 06 May 2014, 05:59

Just drop the pan! You will be shocked at the sludge. There is a cup formed in the pan where the pcv box drains in to it. Oil changes will not get the sludge from inside the cup. There is also a check valve in the oil filter circuit you can clean.

carboncow wrote:We tried blowing on these values and nothing passed...sees that moderate air from blowing had no input either way...so was hoping they were generic enough to just replace and be sure.

There is no question we pushed a lot of junk into that pan including the impurities from the cleaners. We see a couple of oil changes right away. May drop pan shortly after.

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 06 May 2014, 06:52

Is the pan a straight forward drop on a P2, seems to be a bit of confusion on having to move/drop/something with the sub frame...which doesn't sound like in my scope. Additionally, I was hoping to do this over a pit at work but if the subframe needs dropped does that mean the engine needs jacked?

What are the o-rings listed on threads about dropping the pan?

Post by **GBS** » 07 May 2014, 15:24

Getting the bottom left bolt off manifold without removing the thermostat is impressive, maybe I didnt have enough patience but that thing was seriously hidden behind the thermostat. Also seem to remember the expensive tubing assembly had a banjo bolt on the cooling somewhere over there so I'd probably drain and remove thermostat again, hopefully this is was first and last though.