Just an update:
I was reading on Volvospeed, yesterday, how to test the air pump and it's relay. The relay is located in a kidney shaped box (for S70 and V70's), under the hood, in front of the fuse box. This kidney shaped box contains more relays and the main fuses. There are four relays in a row and the air pump relay is the second one from the right (mine was yellow). To test the relay just swap it with the rightmost relay, called the main relay (it was yellow too). If the car will start the air pump relay is OK.
To test the air pump itself, take the air pump relay out and you'll notice that there are four connectors on it, 2 larger spade ones and 2 smaller ones. You want to short (connect) the two large spade terminals in the kidney shaped box with a piece of 14 gauge, or thicker, wire. The car does not have to be on. If you hear the air pump spin up it's OK.
In my case, my relay is OK, however, the pump did not start up upon shorting the two large terminals. I'll have to take the pump back out and check it.
I rebuilt the pump myself using instructions sent to me by another member. If anyone wants these instructions (PowerPoint file) you can send me an e-mail at nick<dot>ryan at nf.sympatico.ca and I'll forward them to you. There's a small bearing that usually seizes and when you replace it pump will usually work again (if it was not damaged by water). The bearing is pretty standard. I have the bearing number and I ordered it for like $2.00 off eBay.
Air Pump Relay, 1998 S70 T5
If the Pump does not run when the Large Relay Connectors are jumpered, it might be the Pump, but it could be a lack of Power to the Connector.
If you have a Test Light, you should be able to clip the Test Light to a good Ground and see it light up when touched to only one of the Large Relay Connectors. The other Large Relay Connector should not light it. If neither Large Relay Connector will light the Test Light, you should look for a bad Fuse, Fuse Link, Connector or Wire.
DO NOT "test" the Smaller Connectors as damage may occur due to the Test Light pulling too much Current from those Circuits.
`Hope this helps.
Rob3
If you have a Test Light, you should be able to clip the Test Light to a good Ground and see it light up when touched to only one of the Large Relay Connectors. The other Large Relay Connector should not light it. If neither Large Relay Connector will light the Test Light, you should look for a bad Fuse, Fuse Link, Connector or Wire.
DO NOT "test" the Smaller Connectors as damage may occur due to the Test Light pulling too much Current from those Circuits.
`Hope this helps.
Rob3
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kendash2000
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 11 February 2013
- Year and Model: V70, 1998
- Location: Pennsylvania
The information below, from pfeener was extremely helpful! Thanks sir. Getting a P0410 code on my 98 V70 and will follow the procedure. Will let the board know what happens.
pfeener wrote: On a 98 S70 the air pump relay is up top under the hood on the left hand side right in front of the main fuse box. It's mounted in a kidney shaped enclosure with other relays and fuses. The 850's have the relay mounted down by the air pump.
To test the air pump you can remove the air pump relay and short together the two larger spade connectors that the relay plugs into. (The smaller spade connectors are the control circuit for the relay) You don't need to have the key turned on; the pump should run when the large spade connectors are shorted. Make sure you use a heavy guage wire or it will melt. You can also remove the relay cover and manually activate the relay to turn on the pump. To test the relay, you can swap it with the "main" relay which it right next to the air pump relay. If the air pump relay was bad, the car won't start.
Keep in mind the air pump only runs under certain circumstances, when the ECU tells it to run and it won't run at all until the ECU finishes running the secondary air monitor routines.
If you need more info go to volvospeed.com, in the forum for 98 and older, in the pinned section at the top there's one for common repairs and there's an extensive thread on the secondary air system.
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 466 times
You are probably new to this P0410 code, most people here do the 90-cent diode "SAS Delete": cheap and effective fix to this annoying CEL.
Drill a hole at the bottom of the air pump so water does not get sucked into the intake manifold.
One of these days, I will post a photo of water stain on top of the engine air filter! This happens b/c the Air Pump, fails, exhaust water enter the air pump and accumulate there, all the way up the hose feeding the Intake Boot (upstream of the Air Mass Meter) ---> Intake!
Drill a hole at the bottom of the air pump so water does not get sucked into the intake manifold.
One of these days, I will post a photo of water stain on top of the engine air filter! This happens b/c the Air Pump, fails, exhaust water enter the air pump and accumulate there, all the way up the hose feeding the Intake Boot (upstream of the Air Mass Meter) ---> Intake!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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mecheng
- Posts: 1271
- Joined: 27 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 T5
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 21 times
Ahhh that explains the rust powder I saw in my fresh air hose. Where in the pump do you drill the hole? Is the pump underneath the shroud?
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
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