2000 S80 Engine stalling, RPM fluctuation

geoffm1234 · Post by **geoffm1234** » 03 Jun 2014, 13:44

I have a 2000 S80 non-turbo with 190k miles on it. Last weekend I was pulling out of my school when I lost power, the RPMs dropped to zero, and then the entire car shutdown.

After I got the car to a parking lot and looked under the hood I noticed that the heat tube coming off of the air filter box was torn up, and after checking my oil realized that I was a few quarts short. So I taped up the heat tube the best I could using furnace tape and topped off the oil. Then the real symptoms started showing.

After starting the car, the RPMs would peak around 2000 and then instantly fluctuate between 1000 and 400 RPM before soon stalling. I researched those symptoms the best I could by reading other users posts and came to the conclusion that this was a faulty ETM.

Because I am hundreds of miles from home and had no transportation to a shop I decided to take the ETM out and give it a solid cleaning in hopes that it was just gunked up.

As I was removing the ETM I noticed that a hose going into the main air tube was disconnected.

So I cleaned the ETM and re-attached the hose, yet I am still having the same symptoms.

BEFORE CLEANING:

Using the few pictures I have provided and the codes from the cars computer I was hoping that someone could weigh in on this so I can get my car up and running again.

This is word for word what my OBD-II readed spit out:
"2 CODES
P1330
P0455
MIL ON
MONITRS
0 INC
7 READY
MISFIRE
FUEL
COMP
CATLYST
EVAP
O2 SNSR
O2 HTR"

rTiGd2 · Post by **rTiGd2** » 03 Jun 2014, 15:57

P0455 (From http://www.crecorder.com/ Lookup)
DTCs definition: Evap EmissControl Sys Leak

Detail description: DTC definition
P0455 Evaporative emission (EVAP) system – large leak detected

Circuit Description/Operation

Monitor/set condition
Immediately after a cold start, with battery/ ambient temperature between 40℉ and 90℉
and coolant temperature within 1090℉ of battery/ambient.
If there is a leak larger than 0.080” in the evaporative system.

Possible Cause:
Hose connection(s).
Intake leak.
EVAP canister.
EVAP canister purge valve.

P1330 (From http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/2mmri-v ... p1330.html)
Variable valve trimming unit solenoid has failed. It can be a few things the timing is off or the variable timing hub is bad this is usually do to sludge but 90% of the time it is the variable valve timing unit this is located directly behind the timing belt.

Hope this helps a bit?

geoffm1234 · Post by **geoffm1234** » 03 Jun 2014, 16:21

rTiGd2 wrote:P0455 (From http://www.crecorder.com/ Lookup)
DTCs definition: Evap EmissControl Sys Leak

Detail description: DTC definition
P0455 Evaporative emission (EVAP) system – large leak detected

Circuit Description/Operation

Monitor/set condition
Immediately after a cold start, with battery/ ambient temperature between 40℉ and 90℉
and coolant temperature within 1090℉ of battery/ambient.
If there is a leak larger than 0.080” in the evaporative system.

Possible Cause:
Hose connection(s).
Intake leak.
EVAP canister.
EVAP canister purge valve.

P1330 (From http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/2mmri-v ... p1330.html)
Variable valve trimming unit solenoid has failed. It can be a few things the timing is off or the variable timing hub is bad this is usually do to sludge but 90% of the time it is the variable valve timing unit this is located directly behind the timing belt.

Hope this helps a bit?

I know one problem with the evap that I have is a torn hose above the gas tank that regulates pressure in the tank (or something along those lines)

the shop I took it to a few months ago told me that the car could continue to run just fine this way, and I ordered the parts to fix the problem. But someone at the parts shop ordered the parts I needed but for a different vehicle so I never ended up fixing it. But as long as the shop I took it to knows what they are talking about then they are unrelated to the problem I am currently having.

I was unsure which code was for that so I left it in my original post. After reading another post I've come to the conclusion that I may have a small clog in my pcv system because I have oil residue in the air intake pipe that goes into the ETM

Thank you for your detailed response.

Post by **Oly_850** » 03 Jun 2014, 17:37

Oil vapor in the intake is normal from the operatin of the flame trap / PVC. The hose you taped is a pre-heat air hose off the exhaust and likely has nothing to do with this issue. Just helps the car warm up in cold weather. You have a vacuum leak, either through the evap system or elsewhere. Any air making it's way into the engine downstream of the mass air flow sensor will cause the car to behave this way, all of a sudden there is way to much air, not enough fuel and it just quits. The cam shaft solenoid buisiness is likely due to oil starvation, sludge or both. Work in the air leak first, then worry about the cam solenoid.

geoffm1234 · Post by **geoffm1234** » 03 Jun 2014, 17:57

Oly_850 wrote:Oil vapor in the intake is normal from the operatin of the flame trap / PVC. The hose you taped is a pre-heat air hose off the exhaust and likely has nothing to do with this issue. Just helps the car warm up in cold weather. You have a vacuum leak, either through the evap system or elsewhere. Any air making it's way into the engine downstream of the mass air flow sensor will cause the car to behave this way, all of a sudden there is way to much air, not enough fuel and it just quits. The cam shaft solenoid buisiness is likely due to oil starvation, sludge or both. Work in the air leak first, then worry about the cam solenoid.

So is it un-likely that I need to replace the ETM? I was looking at the xemodex rebuild.

And what is the most logical way to check for a leak?

matt5112 · Post by **matt5112** » 03 Jun 2014, 18:37

The best way to rule out the ETM is to have the Vida ETM test run. It'll put the ETM through it's paces and let you know how well it performs, or doesn't.

But I agree, fix the leaks first.

One method is to apply pressure with an air compressor.

Most of the traditional methods for finding leaks may or may not work as the ECU is pretty good at compensating. Those methods include spraying carb/brake clean at suspect areas and listening for engine speed changes.

Might be worth just taking off the plastic tubing and inspecting for cracks.

geoffm1234 · Post by **geoffm1234** » 04 Jun 2014, 14:02

So I took apart my air intake today and inspected all pipes, hoses, and vacuum lines. However everything seemed intact. And the only pipe connecting the ETM with the MAF sensor was in great shape.

Hes a picture of the entire pipe:

And here is a picture of its part number:

Is it possible that this whole problem is just the MAF sensor then?

I am running out of ideas and am tempted to just pay to have the car towed to a Volvo dealer.

AVIP · Post by **AVIP** » 04 Jun 2014, 15:13

Unplug the MAF and see if it runs better. Sometimes all this can be caused by a crimped or broken vacuum hose

rTiGd2 · Post by **rTiGd2** » 04 Jun 2014, 15:13

I'm not convinced that hole in the pipe for the EVAP is 'OK' - I could be wrong but given that you are dealing with fuel vapour and vacuum for it to work properly, I'd personally replace that hose?

As for the rev hunting, that's exactly the problem I had with mine. Cleaned the intake from the PCV entry point, through into the throttle plate and it's behaving much better. The cause of that appears to be a clogged PCV so I'm going to be replacing the PCV tank etc now.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 3&p=329315 <- More on this.

rTiGd2 · Post by **rTiGd2** » 04 Jun 2014, 15:14

As for it being the MAF, surely that would be throwing a code?