2006 XC90 V8 drive belt replacement

DaveO · Post by **DaveO** » 09 Jun 2014, 11:35

Hi all,

I had an idler seize last night and, of course, the belt is now several smaller belts. I've been searching this forum and a couple of others to get all my ducks in a row before placing a part order and tackling this job. I do have some questions that I am unable to find the answers to:

There is a lifting eye that sandwiches the upper idler to the timing cover. I am planning on replacing this idler. Is it safe to assume that the eye would have to be removed in order to route the replacement belt if I weren't replacing the idler?

How much torque is required for the idler bolts?

I am planning on buying the three idlers, their bolts, and a belt. Keeping my fingers crossed that the timing cover was not damaged, can anyone suggest what else I may need?

Thanks for your help!

Dave

Post by **jimmy57** » 09 Jun 2014, 12:53

If you feel industrious and want to save a lot of money then replace the bearings in the idlers with 203ff bearings for under $7 each (prices higher in HI and AK...........).
The tensioner is tricky. You have to use a 19mm socket on breaker bar and apply force and wait for it to move over. The damper on it will slow its motion and if you apply too much force the hex the socket is on will break off.

DaveO · Post by **DaveO** » 09 Jun 2014, 13:35

That is great info, thanks! I can get the bearings on A-zon for a reasonable price.

gooster007 · Post by **gooster007** » 09 Jun 2014, 16:00

I just finished replacing my Alternator in my MY08 V8 Sport, which required removing the serp. belt. I'd suggest the following...

1.) Take the time to make yourself a good map of the belt routing... study the routing carefully, and take some pictures for reference (pictures go for almost ANY project - for proper wire/hose routing etc.). I've read many forums on how folks describe the belt to "easily be miss-routed" when reinstalled.

2.) GO SLOW ON THE TENSION!!! The spring is designed to compress under a certain amount of torque. Applying pressure on "releasing" the tension slowly avoids damaging / over-stressing the components of this device as a whole... Crack / break any part and (if you survive) it will be a pain to get undone.

3.) Use the "smooth" surfaced tension pulley as the FIRST point in taking the belt OFF, and the LAST point in getting the belt ON. You'd be amazed how much harder it is to get the belt over the extra 1/4" or so of lip on the other pulleys.

Viel glück mein freund!!!

DaveO · Post by **DaveO** » 09 Jun 2014, 22:42

Thank you, Sir! What torque value did you use on the roller bolts? Thanks...

Post by **jimmy57** » 09 Jun 2014, 22:52

roller bolts are 50 N-m/37 ft-lb

DaveO · Post by **DaveO** » 11 Jun 2014, 16:17

Perfect. Thank you, sir!

evond · Post by **evond** » 24 Jun 2014, 11:15

know what the torque spec is for tensioner? thanks..