Volvo DIY compared to Mercedes DIY

[cn90]

Actually SAS does absolutely nothing for emissions, it adds air to exhaust thus lowering the percentage of CO2 but not the actual amount of particulates in the air.

You may want to read up on this SAS system.
It does reduce pollutants by providing extra air to burn the unburned fuel (hydrocarbons) during cold start.
The unburned hydrocarbons are burned to produce CO2 and H2O.

Do I care about it? Yes, it is better for the environment.
This was why I fixed it the "proper" way first but it was frustrating, not to mention the expense involved.
But practicality prevails, thus the 90-cent diode fix.

[abscate]

You are doing more for the environment by preserving that 26 year old car, having saved the carbon footprint of about 3 new cars, than 179,000 cold start emissions without SAS by my rough swag.

[j-dawg]

You are doing more for the environment by preserving that 26 year old car, having saved the carbon footprint of about 3 new cars

nope:
http://sierraclub.typepad.com/greenlife ... ar.html%20

if you were driving your old car that customary 13,000 miles a year, burning 406 gallons a year, it would only take about 10 months before you’d have burned up the amount of energy needed to create a road-worthy Prius.

keeping an old car vs buying a newer, significantly more fuel-efficient car is only better for the environment if you drive extremely infrequently.

the "manufacture takes as much energy as operation" myth is a pet peeve of mine. it's not true. 70-90% of a car's lifetime greenhouse gas emissions come from its fuel consumption in operation, not from its manufacture and disposal.

[abscate]

I don't buy the Argonne study for a number of reasons, but thats a topic for a different Forum.

[mecheng]

Mercedes made some great cars in the 90s, but then they started using their customers as their guinea pigs for their new gadgets and technology and they turned into electrical nightmares.

[Seaway]

I got the air pump issue resolved this weekend. I decided to go the SAS delete route and I am happy to report it seems to have worked fine. My friend (an Audi tech) came by and helped me with the soldering as I have never done it, and everything worked great. Cleared the CEL and passed inspection today. The write ups on this topic were all very clear and the pictures made it all the more easy to follow. Thanks to everyone who weighed in on the subject.

Next project is to swap out the TCV as I seem to lose boost while under way. If that is not the issue, I will keep reading until I figure out what the problem is. The Torque app shows a spike one about 6 pounds followed by a quick drop, or simply no boost at all. I am still working on sorting it out, but it seems a good idea to start with new silicon vacuum lines and a new (diy AC Delco) TCV and work from there so at least I have a base line.

Thanks again!

[jblackburn]

Great to hear - lots of good resources here if you know where to dig (check out the repair database section of the site!) or others know where to point you.

Next project is to swap out the TCV as I seem to lose boost while under way. If that is not the issue, I will keep reading until I figure out what the problem is. The Torque app shows a spike one about 6 pounds followed by a quick drop, or simply no boost at all. I am still working on sorting it out, but it seems a good idea to start with new silicon vacuum lines and a new (diy AC Delco) TCV and work from there so at least I have a base line.

Thanks again!

If you mash the gas hard, build boost, and then let off suddenly, do you hear a fluttering sound from the turbo? While it could be a TCV, I'd be more inclined to think that's a bad compressor bypass valve.

[mecheng]

I thought this article was fitting to the original topic, love the satire in it

http://dougdemuro.kinja.com/german-reli ... 1572026115

[Seaway]

Great to hear - lots of good resources here if you know where to dig (check out the repair database section of the site!) or others know where to point you.

Next project is to swap out the TCV as I seem to lose boost while under way. If that is not the issue, I will keep reading until I figure out what the problem is. The Torque app shows a spike one about 6 pounds followed by a quick drop, or simply no boost at all. I am still working on sorting it out, but it seems a good idea to start with new silicon vacuum lines and a new (diy AC Delco) TCV and work from there so at least I have a base line.

Thanks again!

If you mash the gas hard, build boost, and then let off suddenly, do you hear a fluttering sound from the turbo? While it could be a TCV, I'd be more inclined to think that's a bad compressor bypass valve.

That was actually going to be my next step, based on the reading I have done. I want to start by getting the vacuum lines (which appear to be original) replaced to have a solid base.

What I could really use is someone to drive the car who knows how it is supposed to drive and sound and feel since this is my first turbo Volvo and I am working a bit blind. I have had turbo diesel cars (and have a turbo diesel in my boat) but I imagine the boost characteristics are a bit different.

Can the cbv be changed while the turbo is mounted, or does it need to come out?

[Seaway]

I thought this article was fitting to the original topic, love the satire in it

http://dougdemuro.kinja.com/german-reli ... 1572026115

I have read that article before. He is partly right. The thing is that even after what I can only assume was years of neglect, I was able to take my 190e from a basket case to a reliable, fun to drive car armed only with a metric socket set and the Internet. The overly complex AC is the only thing that doesn't work. To me that says something about the engineering of the car. The engine is silky smooth and the car is surprisingly quick for only having 122 hp.