ETM bolts

[FrostyV70XC]

Hi all, does anyone know if the etm bolt threads go through into the manafold or if the thread bottoms out, broke one after many removals and installs, metal fatique, etm not leaking air at the moment on only 3 bolts, but I have to remove it one more time, etm getting 12v but does not turn on until everything is well warmed up somtimes I can force it to start by conecting the fuse rapedly, any help would be grate.

Regards Frosty

[FrostyV70XC]

I forgot 2001 V70XC

[precopster]

If you operate the flap in the ETM by hand you'll probably find that the flap encounters binding due to a corroded internal magnet.

This is not an easy repair as the armature needs to be removed and machined or preferably replaced.

[Frosty]

Thank you preposter,
I don't think that's the problem, I had the ETM out 2 weeks ago and I cleaned it and checked the flap it´s all smooth and has a very linear movement, no binding, and if it were binding I don't think it would sometimes run smoothly and other times not, the problem is that the ETM will not switch on when I turn the key, but turns on when the car is hot and has been ruining for about 15 minutes, and I can sometimes "jump start" the ETM by flicking the fuse in and out, sort of "shocking" it to start, I am hoping that it it´s a cold solder or a loose connection, I put in a Sacher TPS last summer so it´s not the usual ETM problem, because when the car is running smoothly Vida finds no fault with the ETM,

[precopster]

I repair ETMs and am on my 63rd repair. All I can say is that there are not 2 ETMs with exactly the same fault or set of symptoms.

Apart from the area you soldered there is the row of six joins where the cable enters (again lots of putty to remove) and the five joints on the opposite side. Under the plastic cover are aluminium bonded wires which require specialist equipment to repair.

I mentioned the flap because as you may or may not know the ETM flicks the air flap backwards when it self tests. It may occasionally bind depending on the temperature of the magnet and the clearances within.

Try a hot test: remove the ETM and expose it to a hot air device like a hair dryer or paint stripper then start the ETM with 12V at the large green wire and earth at the large brown.

I checked on my own XC 01 manifold which is off the car and none of the threads protrude into the inlet chamber.

[Frosty]

Thank you precopster, It does not self test, wont turn on, but I get 12v on the plug, that is why I am removing the ETM again.

I know that pins 5, 6 are ground and 12volts and 3, 4 are pot data I think, but do you know what I should be measuring on pins 1,2.
Can you give me a test run-down ?

EDW 2014A

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Regards Frosty

[precopster]

When you replaced the sensor with the Sacer one there was a reference voltage measured across the sensor terminals. Did you take note of the original sensor's voltage at power-up before replacing it?

If not remove the black lead from the Sacer sensor leading to the board and close up the pins on Pin 2 to place the ETM back to original on that side, then measure the voltage across pin 2 and pin 4 on the opposite side to the Sacer sensor.

Take a look at the attached picture which shows what to measure BEFORE you cut the shaft.

Once the shaft is cut you can't place the original sensor back into the unit to measure the voltage, hence the above procedure.

Then you adjust the magnet with the small amount of play on the shaft (around 5 degrees) to match sensor 2 output (Sacer side) with original sensor 1 on the opposite side.

I use a quick clamp on the ETM body to hold the sensor on while I measure the voltage. Each time you take it apart to adjust the magnet angle just push the pins inwards on the Sacer sensor to ensure contact.

[FrostyV70XC]

Thank you wery much precopster.

Frosty