Need to know removal procedure for the ABS Pump assembly

Post by **jmmxc** » 19 Jan 2010, 20:28

Hi everyone:
Does anybody know how to remove the ABS pump assembly for Volvo 850 GLT '96?
The pump power cable going to the module is cracked and the insulation is flaking off, and wires are shorting. The cable must have dried up.
Need to repair the cable all the way up to inside of the pump cover. It looks like this job requires dissassembly of the brake lines etc.
Let me know.
Thanks,
jmmxc
Volvo GLT, 1996
128Kmiles +

Post by **JDS60R** » 20 Jan 2010, 22:59

Looks like you can repair just the wiring- it unplugs

Post by **jmmxc** » 21 Jan 2010, 19:05

Hi JDS60R,
This is great documentation! I am sure it will be useful to me soon..
Problem is with the 2 wire power cable. Not with the multiwiring connector.
The picture shows insulation is flaking off and causing a short... and the cable goes inside that black cover. Is there a way to remove the pump cover so I can repair the cable w/o dismentling the whole abs assembly?

Picture tells how bad things are.
Thanks,
jmmxc.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 21 Jan 2010, 22:52

You should be able to "de-pin" the connector and fix this with no pump removal.

The contacts in most plugs can be removed from the plug body with the right tool and
then you'd be able to strip off the failing insulation and replace it pretty easily.

IIRC, on that one, the back snaps shut after the pins are inserted at the factory to help hold the pins in.
With a very small screwdriver, you should be able to open it. Old, brittle plastic, Be Careful.

You'll need a pin removal tool to release the tabs on the contact pins so they'll slide out.
The parts store should have a "weatherpack" contact removal tool similar to this one:

: Weatherpack contact removal tool.jpg (7.8 KiB) Viewed 6990 times

Came across this one on eBay for 5 or 6 bucks: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weather- ... ccessories
But getting the right diameter is not guaranteed... So, maybe a universal type, like these:

: Universal Contact Removal Tool.jpg (10.07 KiB) Viewed 6990 times

Once the pin and wire are free of the plug body, remove all the old, cracked out jacket and slip new insulation
( Strip some from a nice, heavy duty extension cord inner conductor. Nice and flexible! )
over the exposed wire and reassemble the plug. Reconnect and You're done!

Things to be careful of:
Note the polarity before you get started. Your picture should help.
Brittle old Volvo plastic!
Be very careful with the tabs that hold the contact pins in the plug body.
If the stay pressed in after removal, be VERY careful tweaking their little ears back out.
You Do Not want to break them...

Good Luck!

Post by **jmmxc** » 23 Jan 2010, 12:54

BEJinFbk:
Super!
I will give this a try soon.
I am going after the universal removal tool right now.
This does not seem so hard to do.
I already got myself some good weatherproof sleeve I can use.
I will post my result as soon as done.
Thanks for the documentation.
(Keep my fingers crossed that the module is still in working condition!

)
jmmxc
volvo 850 glt '96

Post by **ojdorson** » 29 Apr 2011, 09:20

Do we know how to remove that black plastic "cup" covering the pump and part of the wires? Or are we just pushing insulation up those wires as far up as we can?

sidharrell · Post by **sidharrell** » 15 Jun 2014, 11:25

Sounds like they are talking about pushing insulation up the wire as far as it will go without taking the black plastic cup off. I took the cup off yesterday, and doing it made me order a set of low profile torx sockets. There are 3 T-20's. Two are visible and one is behind the abs pump with the black plastic cup on it. Do yourself a favor and pull the battery, the air filter housing, take the 2 black plastic 10mm nuts off that hold the wiring harness to the side of the engine bay. Put a tie wrap around the wire harness and hook it to the stud on top of the suspension column. You'll need 1/4 inch extensions and a universal joint, and the low profile t-20 torx socket. Once you get those 3 t-20s free, you can move the abs pump out and tilt it toward you without disconnecting the brake lines. The plastic cup comes off, and you can remove the two long t-20 bolts holding the pump to that block. I couldn't see a way to get the back off the motor, so you can only re-insulate the wires back up to a rubber grommet on the pump.
Maybe when my low-profile torx set arrives and I can do this on my parts car fairly easily, I'll take the abs pump off and figure out how to get it apart and replace the wires entirely. Sounds like it needs an exchange service, as that insulation is flaking off every 850 out there. (And probably 70 and 60 series, maybe 80 and 40s, too)

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 02 Sep 2016, 19:38

The idea that I suggested here was to pull metal contacts out of the plastic plug.

There's a little hinged cover at the back end of the plug where the wires come out
and run to the pump motor. It locks around the wires and helps keep the contacts in.
When you pop it open, you can slip the tube shaped contact pin release tool from
the front side of the plug and the pins can be pulled out by the pump wires.

Once you do that, you can slip some other insulation or something like shrink tubing
over the contact to cover the naked copper that lost it's insulation. Then just slip the
contacts back into the plug, snap the little plastic cover shut to lock them back in.
Plug back in to the module and poof you're done.

Post by **Matty Moo** » 03 Sep 2016, 07:45

Remove the black cover from the pump motor. To do this You need to remove the nut from the harness bundle that is in the way of you removing cover. Remove that nut, pull the harness out of the way so you can remove the black cover. Don't worry about breaking the black cover, it's very flexible.

Once off.... Rewrap each wire individually and reassemble.

Twenty minutes or less.

Post by **DragosGD** » 14 Oct 2016, 00:02

I've used Liquid Tape, Flexible Rubber Formula for a waterproof electrical insulation. Amazing product!!