Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

[xHeart]

I am preparing to replace end-link and the axle anchorage on both sides.
Taking your advise cn90, I will overhaul the rear brake.
Could you elaborate on the three dashed comments under the list-item 2?

The more I think about this End Link DIY, the more I think this is what should be done:

1. In my Brake Overhaul DIY, I mentioned that the brake hose running on top of the delta links is virtually impossible to change with the delta links in place.
Here is the Gen. 1 V70 Brake Overhaul DIY.

2. So I propose that by the time you need to replace the endlinks (PN 3516122), you probably have way over 150K or so, then it makes sense to also replace brake hose running on top of the delta links.

- Clamp the driver's side REAR hose so it does not leak, then disconnect it (or cut it if you replace it).
- Then drop the entire REAR suspension! This will make the job of changing the endlinks much easier.
- No need to remove the Rear delta links from the car, simply drop them straight down on a piece of wood (support the brake rotors with wood too).
- Then change the brake hose on top of the delta links.
- Also change the Axle Anchorage Mount (PN 3530202, 9181027).
- When reinstalling delta links, just make sure the brake hose is not kinked/stressed.

What do you guys think? Good or Bad idea?

[ruhl98t5wag]

Have 2 cars that need this replacement, would like to do it at leisure, anyone that has used their tool and would like to sell, I would like to buy. Thanks for the posts-Phil

[xHeart]

Suspension Link Replacement is my first task for spring 2014.

Reading this post https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=41379, it says, "You do need to undo the lower shock absorber mounting, but make sure you support the suspension to control the release of coil spring pressure."

I had discovered problem with the stud where acorn nut threads while working on replacing rear shocks winter 2012, here is a photo...


...more here https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31410.

Lee/cn90 hinted, there may be complication, stud breaking off the suspension if I undo the acorn nut, so I ask:
Would working at upper mount, inside the trunk an option for "undo the lower shock absorber mounting"?

[kahl]

I was getting the clunking crashing sound coming from the rear while hitting bumps and railroad crossings. Replaced the trailing arm links and all rear suspension clatter is gone. used the Volvo tool and was still a bitch. 850 is a 94 with 225 miles.

[blandis]

Just completed this repair on my 99 S70 T5. Has 139K on it, I believe they have never been changed. Looked solid still. Dont really notice any difference. I am trying to eliminate a negative camber issue in rear passenger wheel. This did not fix it.

Did both of mine in less than 2 hours. Got the loaner tool from Matt. The only way to go! Only thing I did different that I had not seen mentioned was that I used the tool to press the new delta link jback in. I used engine assembly lube on the bushing, started each of them will a mallet. Then hooked the tool up and ran them in.

I dropped the suspension down (undid shock) on drivers side, and let it attached on passenger. If I did it again, I would undo the shock on the passanger side. A bit of a pain to wedge a piece of wood to hold supsension down to get clearance to get link in and out.

[xHeart]

...
I dropped the suspension down (undid shock) on drivers side, and let it attached on passenger. If I did it again, I would undo the shock on the passanger side. A bit of a pain to wedge a piece of wood to hold supsension down to get clearance to get link in and out.

Thank you for the detail blandis.
Are you suggestion lowering the trailing arm by removing the shock's cap-nut on each side, driver and passenger. Then attaching the tool to pull out the delta link?

[blandis]

X
Yes. I did the passenger side first. Left the shock attached. Issue is there is not enough room to mount the tool and pull the delta link out. I had to wedge a 2x6 between the body and the rear suspension to "hold" it down away from the body. I would think if you took the bottom nut off the shock you could drop the rear suspension. That would allow easy access to the delta link.
On the drivers I did take the bottom shock bolt out and let the suspension rest on a stand. Dont forget to remove the brake line bracket bolt up top (10 mm) and the 12 mm bolt that hold the filter bracket.
I went real slow with the impact to remove delta link. Soaked it in PB blaster. It will eventually break loose. I was getting worried I may break/bend the tool.
Grease the new ones up and get them started. Open the tool all the way up. Mount the tool and use it to run the new link in. IE: press the new link in. Only hickup I had is when you press the new on in, the bolt that has to drop in would not go in. Had to take a large punch and drive it through the mount hole to line it up with the delta link.

Picture attached is the delta link almost all the way in.

I cant imagine trying to tackle these without the tool. Well worth the few bucks to get it from Matt.

I used a lift so that helps out.

[kahl]

I just finished up on my second set of links on a new to me 850. Learning from the first car and again using the Volvo tool it took 1 hour per side. Here are some key points that I found useful:
1. remove shock from arm with a walker jack below, lowering arm about four inches. Not so low the spring tumbles out.
2. clean the trailing arm top and bottom with a wire brush. Road debris can get in the way of properly seating the tool.
3. Use heat and Wd-40 on the link. I heated for about 8 minutes until I got good smoke and smell from the heated rubber.
4. Using an impact screw off the link. If you sense it starting to bind go back to heat and wd 40.
5. Use a wire brush to clean out the now vacated link hole. spray in wd 40. On the link rubber an edging of axle grease.
6. using a hammer start the link into arm until it has been equaly inserted about 1/2 inch.
7. Using a sledge hammer wack once or twice to seat.

Any member in my area needing help with this job let me know.

[pistrix]

Thank you all for information about how to do it. I did the one on the passenger side yesterday and it took me 3 hours. It was tough but thanks to this thread, nothing unpredictable happend. I first tried to pull the link out with a modified car jack but it didn't move at all. Then I drilled the plastic around the link and pulled it out without problems. Inserting a new one was also simple by lightly hitting the plastics with a brass rod and a hammer. It took me 3 hours to do it.

One thing worth mentioning is that when I removed all bolts, the whole rear axle moved for about 15cm and I had to winch it back to the pin.

I saw that sooner or later I will have to replace also the link on the driver side and both transverse arm mountings. They are both hardly corroded with some parts around the rubber already gone. That will be tougher - I am not looking forward to do this.

[xHeart]

Taking it on.
The muffler project is opportune time to get rear suspension overhauled with OE/OEM - spring, delta, transverse arm anchor mount, flexible brake hose, restoration of rusted surfaces. Bilstein was replaced 18 months old.
Here are few photos.
The picture with screw is of driver side transverse arm anchor mount at passenger side delta. The two nuts came off fine, but one screw is coated with white cement like stuff which fills the tube of anchor mount. All efforts has failed in last several hours. Any suggestion?
Picture with arrows: screws and nuts are off but i can't pull or pry out the anti-roll bar.

Driver's side rear - spring and shock removed - broken exhaust lay on ground

MVS_0453.jpg (997.12 KiB) Viewed 3020 times

stubborn anchor mount screw - surround with white glue

MVS_0459.jpg (976.55 KiB) Viewed 3020 times

red arrow on passenger side transverse arm anchor mount at driver side delta, and green arrow over anti-roll bar

MVS_0461.jpg (1.14 MiB) Viewed 3020 times