2006 S60 ECM replacement question

ycartf · Post by **ycartf** » 26 Jun 2014, 18:11

I received a used (and compatible) ECM today for my daughter's 2006 S60. I was going to put it on and, after noticing that a special tool was required, called the local place that works on Volvo (not a dealership) to see what they would charge for that 3 minute task. They told me that a used ECM would not work and that I had to buy a "new Volvo ECM" and have it programmed specifically for her car. Have y'all ever heard of that before? I know I swapped computers between two Luminas one time with no problems, so I figured this would work fine. Thanks for any info you may have and have a great day.

PS - How do I remove my signature or change the info on it (to remove website URL)? Thanks

Post by **jimmy57** » 26 Jun 2014, 18:20

The ECM has anti-theft coding that "marries" it to the car. This gets more widespread every year.
The ECM can be sent along with the old one to a company called XEMODEX and they can do the software exchange to make it work.
ECMs on 2006 volvos hardly fail except for things like lightning strikes or other serious electrical issues.
Why are you changing it?

ycartf · Post by **ycartf** » 27 Jun 2014, 07:59

The place that scanned the CEL code gave that as the only diagnosis (replace ECM) with a price of $1900 for them to do it. The place is not a dealer, but when the local dealer closed, one of their mechanics started working there (and the nearest dealer is 2 hours away now). She has been having power issues, rough idling, car shutting off at least once on her, AC stopping working (or cooling) all of a sudden, etc. None of these issues started until she had the car about a month and we had a very, VERY cold snap for our area. She went to move it when it was covered with ice/snow and it ran rough then, with problems ever since.

Post by **S60T5SE** » 27 Jun 2014, 10:21

While I can't offer much in the way of specific technical support, I've been following this forum for some time now, and, FWIW, my impression is that this may not have been properly diagnosed.

We almost never see wholesale ECM failures, although I am sure it does happen. To properly diagnose many things on a Volvo, a special code reader is needed, something called VIDA. Did your mechanic use this to read the code? If not, I'll bet not all the information that could be available here was apparent. Also, only 1 code being set for something as complicated as a failed ECM? Usually when something that important goes, there are many codes set as a result of cascading errors throughout the system.
Many times, car problems come down to something relatively simple. Your description of the diagnosis you received strikes me as someone saying, "A little dizzy in the morning are we? Ahh, brain surgery, that'll fix it!"

Editing your signature: Click User Control Panel (above the forum name on left), Profile tab, Edit Signature.

Buckone · Post by **Buckone** » 27 Jun 2014, 12:31

From my own experience with a cold start problem... I have a post somewhere on this forum on it. I took my 2002 AWD S60 to the dealership due to a starting problem. They did hook it up to their diagnostic equipment and determined the ECM was bad. I bought a used ECM and had XEMODEX reprogram it at a fourth the cost. I made a little tool to pull the old ECM (search the web). It turned out that it wasn't the ECM. Later a local shop found the crankshaft pulley was stripped. Like the suggestion of others, I would check things like fuel pressure, spark, timing, camshaft and crankshaft position sensors, etc before replacing the ECM.

ycartf · Post by **ycartf** » 27 Jun 2014, 13:22

S60T5SE, I thought the same thing (getting just the one thing - ECM - recommended). I do not know exactly what type reader they used, but they charged her $95 just for reading it and resetting it. They are the closest thing to a dealer we have around here (mechanic there worked for Volvo when they were here), but I think we are going to need to get a second opinion from another place that works on imports (and we have taken all our Toyotas there in the past).

Post by **abscate** » 27 Jun 2014, 13:27

ycartf wrote:The place that scanned the CEL code gave that as the only diagnosis (replace ECM) with a price of $1900 for them to do it. The place is not a dealer, but when the local dealer closed, one of their mechanics started working there (and the nearest dealer is 2 hours away now). She has been having power issues, rough idling, car shutting off at least once on her, AC stopping working (or cooling) all of a sudden, etc. None of these issues started until she had the car about a month and we had a very, VERY cold snap for our area. She went to move it when it was covered with ice/snow and it ran rough then, with problems ever since.

Thats not at all consistent with ECU problems. Compression, fuel, ignition, timing all needs to be looked over before messing with ECU.

You need to get the code in the form "P1234" whenever you get a Check Engine Light read, not the generic description of the fault.

Post by **precopster** » 27 Jun 2014, 14:54

Correct diagnosis of a 2006 Volvo will require a Vida/Dice setup. It may point you to config codes which will necessitate removal of the ECM and cleaning of the edge connector.

If you don't want the hassle of the IT install search forum for "VM Ware Image" as the Dice tool communicates with the image.

Firstly clean the ECM connector with non residual electrical contact cleaner.

stefang · Post by **stefang** » 25 Aug 2016, 02:48

Hi all I have a 2006 volvo v50 t5. I was repalcing the water pipe on my car an hadtostrip almost half of the car and ended up removing the ecm from the air box and by accident I touch it against the + pole no everthing is haywire. Do I have toe replace it or must it be reprogramed.
Thanks all

Post by **abscate** » 25 Aug 2016, 12:14

If it didn't touch anything but the + pole on the battery it will be fine. The negative pole on the battery should be the first thing you disconnect after putting up the hood for anything but an oil change, though. That will save you from this sort of mess.

Get everything back together, remove both battery terminals from battery, touch together for 10 minutes. Then reinstall positive, then negative and give it a new try.