Still in the process of bringing my 850 back to life. Next project is to get my new blower motor working by replacing my resistor. My vehicle never had a cabin filter, so i know my evaporator looks like crap and clogged. At this point i do not know the current condition of my A/C, but i wouldn't be surprised if its not working anyway like everything else didn't when i bought this car for $600. I visually inspected my condenser and the fins are literally clogged with debris and caked on dirt. So I'm just gonna replace every A/C component for piece of mind. So i gathered my list and correct me if i'm wrong
Blower resistor $121.99
A/C condensor $115.95
A/C orifice tube (expansion valve) $32.98
A/C evaporator $51.95
A/C accumulator $23.95
= $344.11
Fcpeuro.com
Are there any special tools to tackle this job (pictures please)? I know i have to remove the dashboard for the evaporator. Where's the orifice tube (pictures please)? Of coarse i have to purge the system first, then what? Should i start at the condenser and work my way back ?
Volvo 850 A/C Component Job
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Baptiste1106
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Volvo 850 A/C Component Job
Last edited by Baptiste1106 on 05 Jul 2014, 13:57, edited 1 time in total.
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JimBee
- Posts: 1915
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If you have succeeded in disconnecting the spring-lock connectors at the firewall and the accumulator tank, replacing the parts should be fairly straightforward. Those connectors have thus far defeated me.
As Ozark Lee pointed out, the garter springs inside them are not made of stainless steel, so they rust. He suggests soaking them in PB Blaster for a while before trying to open them.
It's hard to force the plastic tools sold in most auto stores into the release slot b/c the spring has to expand. If it's rusty, it doesn't just give way.
I found a pliers type tool on Amazon (Sears mail order also has it) that might make it easier. Please let us know if you have found an easier way to disconnect them.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywor ... mi5zhb7y_e
btw: you don't mention a problem with your compressor. When you have lines open, I have read that it's a good idea to have the system professionally flushed—not with water or any liquid. Not sure how they do that. Worth looking into anyway.
As Ozark Lee pointed out, the garter springs inside them are not made of stainless steel, so they rust. He suggests soaking them in PB Blaster for a while before trying to open them.
It's hard to force the plastic tools sold in most auto stores into the release slot b/c the spring has to expand. If it's rusty, it doesn't just give way.
I found a pliers type tool on Amazon (Sears mail order also has it) that might make it easier. Please let us know if you have found an easier way to disconnect them.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywor ... mi5zhb7y_e
btw: you don't mention a problem with your compressor. When you have lines open, I have read that it's a good idea to have the system professionally flushed—not with water or any liquid. Not sure how they do that. Worth looking into anyway.
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jimmy57
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You might want to call FCP on the orifice. That is way more than volvo dealer price on that. It is an orifice and not an expansion valve on that car. Orifices are generic and come in a few orifice opening sizes depending on the car. As I recall 3mm is the Volvo size. Anyway, they are $1.99 at O'Reilly's if that gives you an idea how far off that price is.
The other items are priced well is why that sticks out as so wrong.
The other items are priced well is why that sticks out as so wrong.
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Baptiste1106
- Posts: 206
- Joined: 17 October 2013
- Year and Model: 850 1994
- Location: Brooklyn NY
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@jimmy57 .... They sell two orifices, but the one posted is suppose to be auto adjusting. Look at the photos
- Attachments
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- Regular orifice
- image.jpg (167.27 KiB) Viewed 242 times
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- Auto adjusting
- image.jpg (147.63 KiB) Viewed 242 times
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