Rust
Rust
Ok, so I am new to forum style questions but here I go! I just purchased a 1984 240 sedan turbo. I did not pay much for it and it runs great ( rebuilt engine, seals etc... turbo was just rebuilt as well) . I love Volvo's my drives a 850 wagon anyways.. The rear quarters are rusted out and the spare tire area is half way gone. The question is " What is the most cost effective way to repair this damage? " I have looked on ebay, google searches etc... I have not found a real clear answer to this question. I am sure I am about the 1,000,000 person with this question. I have found new panels for about 300.00 per. Is this the best way to go or should I do the old bondo? The car is not rotted anywhere but in the area. I plan on driving this beast for many years to come. Any help ???
Having lived in a rust belt for over 60 yrs. I can tell you that a good bondo job (without removing all the rust) will last about 2 years. The car will continue to rust further and the bondo will eventually fall off leaving a hole larger than the original.
There is no quick cure except small spots in the trunk floor can sometimes be stopped by laying rags soaked in oil over the rust. The rust just hates oil. Of course in the trunk area you have to worry about exhaust fumes leaking through and if you have safety inspections, it probably won't pass.
An older car is tough to put a lot of money into body work. If you buy the parts and need someone to install and paint you will quickly exceed the value of the car.
If you can find a amateur, back yard repair guy, he might be able to cut out the rust and put some panels in their place. Now with a backyard amateur you can't expect it to look too great, but possibly acceptable.
Mark
There is no quick cure except small spots in the trunk floor can sometimes be stopped by laying rags soaked in oil over the rust. The rust just hates oil. Of course in the trunk area you have to worry about exhaust fumes leaking through and if you have safety inspections, it probably won't pass.
An older car is tough to put a lot of money into body work. If you buy the parts and need someone to install and paint you will quickly exceed the value of the car.
If you can find a amateur, back yard repair guy, he might be able to cut out the rust and put some panels in their place. Now with a backyard amateur you can't expect it to look too great, but possibly acceptable.
Mark
The good news is I work in the car business and do know some people that can help! I am sure that someone has figured this mess out. Lets all face the fact that the 240's will be piles of rust within 10 years if we don't. What if I cut the rear panel and the tire well out completly. I mean remove the cancer and add some sheetmetal were the rot is ? I have some plans for this car ( the zimmermann cross drilled rotors and steel braided brake lines showed up today and bell intercoolers has the custom setup in the works! YES I know I have more money than brains) I have to look at Chevys all day ( where I work) and cant take one more SUV! I could also get the rear panels and a put them on? PLEASE SOMEONE MUST HAVE A SOLUTION???? ANYONE?
- billofdurham
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If you intend keeping the car it would be best to remove all the rotten bits and install new panels or, as you have contacts in the trade, you may be able to pick up good panels from a breaker.
Personally, if the car is this far gone I would run it until it falls apart. As Mark has said you are going to exceed the value of the car with new panels and, at the end of the day you will still have a 23 year old car which is going to sprout rust in new places, as it would appear to have been neglected by previous owners.
Bill.
Personally, if the car is this far gone I would run it until it falls apart. As Mark has said you are going to exceed the value of the car with new panels and, at the end of the day you will still have a 23 year old car which is going to sprout rust in new places, as it would appear to have been neglected by previous owners.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
My 84-85 240's rusted like crazy. The 92 that I have now hasn't rusted at all...and this is in the rust belt capital...Vermont. My experience is that the rust on these starts from the outside...stone chips. I had a friend touch up a few spots last year, buff the car out and it looked almost new. My guess is that this car probably lived it's life on a dirt or gravel road. So, the underside is likely beat up too.
If that's the case it would be cheaper to find a car in better condition or just bondo this one up, but if it was me, I wouldn't spend a lot of money on body work or upgrades.
Mark
If that's the case it would be cheaper to find a car in better condition or just bondo this one up, but if it was me, I wouldn't spend a lot of money on body work or upgrades.
Mark
I have a friend that just opened a body shop.He is going to do all the work for me and paint the car at a very low price. I have some other upgrades that will be going on as well. I figured if I wanted to find a clean 240 I would have to spend about 2000-3000 depending or year and miles. Since this one has a newly rebuilt engine and turbo this one will do. I paid 300 bucks for it and with paint, body work, cross drilled rotors, SS brake lines and custom intercooler I will be just shy of 3000. It will will look great.
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