Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

[abscate]

Has anyone got pictures of the transverse arm bushing replacement? I have to do delta links and am will do these too if the are bad.

[xHeart]

Has anyone got pictures of the transverse arm bushing replacement? I have to do delta links and am will do these too if the are bad.

The anchorage mount is cracked and broken, will post pictures of progress.

Meanwhile -- now referring to the photo with stuck bolt -- I have cut-off bolt's hex-head and the shank.
But could not get it to flush with the anchorage mount which sits inside the transverse arm at the delta, so it sticks out 1/8".

A tight fit, the 1/8" stud needs grind for the transverse arm to swing out.
What would you recommend for grinding? An electric drill with something like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vermont-American-1-4-in-Grinding-Point-Cylinder-16710/202256366 for it to work in a quarter size, 1" round space?

[xHeart]

Entire rear suspension is lowered, threaded few at the bracket for support. There is no spring or shock at this time. The spring seat is supported by a bottle jack at each end.

This is driver's side view of passenger transverse arm at the delta. Anti-roll bar removed. The anchorage mount was removed.

circus at driver side

MVS_0465.jpg (746.43 KiB) Viewed 3063 times

new mount next to broken OE mount

MVS_0462.jpg (1.4 MiB) Viewed 3063 times

[xHeart]

The more I think about this End Link DIY, the more I think this is what should be done:

1. In my Brake Overhaul DIY, I mentioned that the brake hose running on top of the delta links is virtually impossible to change with the delta links in place.
Here is the Gen. 1 V70 Brake Overhaul DIY.

2. So I propose that by the time you need to replace the endlinks (PN 3516122), you probably have way over 150K or so, then it makes sense to also replace brake hose running on top of the delta links.

- Clamp the driver's side REAR hose so it does not leak, then disconnect it (or cut it if you replace it).
- Then drop the entire REAR suspension! This will make the job of changing the endlinks much easier.
- No need to remove the Rear delta links from the car, simply drop them straight down on a piece of wood (support the brake rotors with wood too).
- Then change the brake hose on top of the delta links.
- Also change the Axle Anchorage Mount (PN 3530202, 9181027).
- When reinstalling delta links, just make sure the brake hose is not kinked/stressed.

What do you guys think? Good or Bad idea?

Using cn90's note for replacing the two flexible brake hose.

[abscate]

Im still torn on these mount brands

FEBI 25USD x2

VOLVO 199x2

seriously....350 USD difference??

Lee has good (100k) review of the SCANTECH delta link...cant find anything on the PROPARTS one.

[volvoassault]

I did this job on the passenger side tonight.

After getting the nuts and bolts off I employed a Come Along connected at the end link to the notch on the center of the car used to jack it up with the scissor jack. I tied a tow rope the opposite direction attached to the suspension and kept it tight to the tow hook on another car and parked said vehicle to equal out the pressure on the suspension. With constant pressure pulling the link I applied heat. Also hit the link w a hammer after heating. I eventually just left it on heat and when the plastic started to melt the constant pressure pulled it right out.

I cleaned everything up w a file (there was VERY little melted plastic because as soon as it started to melt it came right out), made sure the new part was beveled enough, greased it up and employed a helper to hold it in place while I used a massive hammer and a 3ft long 2x4 (for more even distribution of power) to get it in straight (just hitting it w a hammer was proving difficult, it kept going in crooked). It went RIGHT in with ZERO issues or struggles. Getting it in was VERY easy and hassle free this way.

With these tactics if I had to do this job again it would be a very easy one. Thanks to the original poster as well as all the other suggestions in this thread!

[JohnnyT64]

I got all the bolts out very easily EXCEPT for the bolt that is farthest in on the bushing(the smallest of the 18mm bolts). Acccording to what I have read, you are suppose to tap it out.......I've heated, used the top end WD40, banged away. Any tips from you guys?

Thanks,

JT

[N_D]

I got all the bolts out very easily EXCEPT for the bolt that is farthest in on the bushing(the smallest of the 18mm bolts). Acccording to what I have read, you are suppose to tap it out.......I've heated, used the top end WD40, banged away. Any tips from you guys?

Thanks,

JT

I just did this job on both sides a month ago. First off buy a new bolt+nut to replace the old ones due to the damage done from beating the life out of it(only a few dollars from volvo). I too tried hammering, wd40, and so on. Eventually had to use a 10ton hydraulic C-clamp to press it out. Also try putting pressure on the bolt with a heavy duty C-Clamp or Ball Joint remover then giving it a shock with a hammer. Hope this helps.

example of tool I used:http://www.sgs-engineering.com/skin/frontend/default/sgs/images/catalog/powerteam/tools/images-clamps.jpg

[JohnnyT64]

Thanks ND. Now I don't feel so bad that I could not do it with a 3# sledge. A friend of mine is bringing over an air hammer to deal with it. I had to laugh when I read about your 10 ton hydraulic C-clamp.....I wasted so much time hammering.
Thanks for the advice!!!!

[abscate]

Keep the faith johnnyT64... Mine was so worn out it just fell out when I unbolted.

I actually did the rear end struts springs delta-links, TA-bushings faster than it took to replace a headlight bulb on my P2...