This car is going to be the death of me. 94 855 timing belt

Post by **cn90** » 29 Jul 2014, 07:48

The little knob on the oil pump is the culprit. See the BLUE arrow:

: OilPump.JPG (43.96 KiB) Viewed 954 times

Post by **dosbricks** » 29 Jul 2014, 14:09

abscate wrote: I think what dosbricks methods does is ensure the last pulley to be installed as the longest run of belt adjacent to it. Trying to put it on the tensioner last, you only have a few cm of belt to stretch so the applied force goes up proportionally inversely to the length of the piece of belt run.

Yeah--what he said

.......It's just easier

I can't take any credit. This is Rich Kelley's method (Master Tech over on vs). I've done 5 TB jobs on our cars and never done it any other way.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jul 2014, 14:19

It's not about getting The right answer, it's being able to pontificate...

Post by **RussB** » 29 Jul 2014, 18:01

cn90 wrote:The little knob on the oil pump is the culprit. See the BLUE arrow:

OilPump.JPG

Excellent!

Notice that rubber donut on the blue arrow. It partially fell off and blocked the belt from fully seating on the crank pulley. Made me crazy!

Symptoms were as you describe...belt seemed too short, but was indeed the proper belt

Post by **phat78ta** » 29 Jul 2014, 19:41

Russ, you win the internet's for today. That Damn donut was in the way.
Now on to the next woe:
Timing marks do not line up properly. I had the cam sprockets off for the head job, and thought I lined the marks from the bolts up when I put them back on. Guess not.
This is where the crank Mark is if can marks are lined up:

: Blue line is crank mark, block mark is one tooth ccw if you can't see the mark

And cam marks if crank is lined up.

Engine turns over by hand freely, nothing hits or binds as far as I can tell.
Should I loosen the cam bolts and move the cams or is there another way to fix this? I'm not really into bending valves.
I hate this car.....

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 Jul 2014, 19:56

Just twist the cams back to the marks and proceed with the belt change. If you had the sprockets off and you want to double check you can remove the cam position sensor and the distributor to make sure the slots on the back of the camshafts are horizontal - that they line up with the seam between the head and the cam cover.

The last laborious step really shouldn't be necessary since you are able to hand crank the engine when the belt is on but it would be an "abundance of caution" step.

...Lee

Post by **phat78ta** » 29 Jul 2014, 20:10

Thanks Lee, I pulled the belt back off and re aligned the cams. On the tensioner to go back down in the vice and in will try again. One and a half teeth scared me, seeing how my wife's car is next in line to get a head job since the serpentine belt got into the timing belt and it jumped time.

Post by **phat78ta** » 29 Jul 2014, 21:05

Got it. Belt wasn't quite taught enough from crank to idler pulley, and it was letting the crank turn one tooth before turning the belt. So ends another night of little progress. Se la vie.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jul 2014, 21:14

You have persevered and slain the Swedish dragon. Bravo Zulu

Post by **phat78ta** » 29 Jul 2014, 21:40

abscate wrote:You have persevered and slain the Swedish dragon. Bravo Zulu

Not yet. Still have to replace the radiator and reassemble the rest of the engine. If it runs and drives, I have slain the Swedish Drago. Then shall I make armor from its scales the likes of which the land has never seen.

This car is going to be the death of me. 94 855 timing belt

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