1999 V70r - Rebuilt head installed/now codes P0014 P0134

[robbcolecrabtree]

I appreciate the words of wisdom. I am not too ashamed to admit that I could be off on the crank. When I go back through and do finish the timing this go around, I will check many times, maybe even have my wife come out and verify that the timing marks are correct. It's not that big of a deal to redo the timing, it just gets old doing it over and over again. Thank you, and I hope that the fourth time is the charm.

[precopster]

Just know that the pointer on the later engines makes it a vague guess as to where the marks actually are.

Usually the crank needs to be one tooth anti-clockwise more than our sight suggests. The mark on the crank is actually 2 notches and you're positioning the pointer in the VALLEY between them.

I had FIVE goes on my 2000 V70 a couple of weeks ago before I got it right and this was around my 7th timing belt replacement on various white-block Volvos.

[robbcolecrabtree]

Haha, well I guess I don't feel so bad then. I will be sure to watch out for that. I have seen the notches on the ribs of the Crank pulley for the timing belt, and I believe I have been placing it in the valley between them, but I will be very diligent when putting it all together this next time. I am not sure if they delivered the cam tool today or not. I will find out when I go home. If not, then I will just have to stare at the car and curse it's name until tomorrow. I have never heard this car run right. Bought it with the bad headgasket, so you can only imagine how excited I am to get it running smoothly.

I appreciate the advice Mike. I will be sure to double check the mark is in the valley.

[Ozark Lee]

Usually the crank needs to be one tooth anti-clockwise more than our sight suggests. The mark on the crank is actually 2 notches and you're positioning the pointer in the VALLEY between them.

I bought a Snap On borescope with the flexible wand and it has been a lifesaver when it comes to seeing the microscopic notches on the crank pulley. Before I had that I used a digital camera to take a picture of it and then look at the picture on the computer. The camera can see a heck of a lot better than my "over 40" eyes.

...Lee

[robbcolecrabtree]

I had one at my last job and miss it. Hadn't really thought about having a borescope again until now. Just bought one, haha. They are so handy.

Looks like the tool was not delivered. They refunded my shipping charges, but I will not get it until tomorrow. Bummer. Guess I will have to go and mow my acre of grass in the blistering heat then.

I am hoping that all this info in one thread will benefit more people one day. It looks like not only myself, but even some of the experts here struggle with the timing on these rigs. I love the cars, and I am certainly not going to be pushed away by a challenging timing job, but I am glad that most things are fairly easy to work on for these.

[gmh]

Just know that the pointer on the later engines makes it a vague guess as to where the marks actually are.

Usually the crank needs to be one tooth anti-clockwise more than our sight suggests. The mark on the crank is actually 2 notches and you're positioning the pointer in the VALLEY between them.

I had FIVE goes on my 2000 V70 a couple of weeks ago before I got it right and this was around my 7th timing belt replacement on various white-block Volvos.

I was guessing at the mark on the block until I saw this photo:

timing mark on engine

TimingMark3.jpg (159.37 KiB) Viewed 856 times

[gmh]

BTW while the above pic shows both marks (crank and block) clearly, they are not aligned but are a tooth and a half off.

[robbcolecrabtree]

Here is what mine looks like.

Timing Marks on my 1999 V70r

WP_20140729_21_44_10_Pro.jpg (233.22 KiB) Viewed 854 times

It is slightly off right now. I was messing around with stuff a bit and I need to go back just a few mm to get it perfect, but I will do that tonight once I have the cam tool. I have a tracking number that says it is out for delivery, so I have faith that I SHOULD get it today.

[robbcolecrabtree]

Okay, so I got the code again, but I am narrowing it all down.

The timing is perfect. I went super slow, checked, rechecked, and checked again. It is perfect. I noticed when I was doing the timing before, I did it back to back twice, and when I took the lower timing cover off, I noticed the tensioner was maxed out. I am wondering if perhaps the tensioner is just too tight.

It is about 80-85 degrees here when I am doing the timing belt stuff, and I have been setting the tensioner just past the middle of the tensioner window.

So when I drove the car this time, it was better (placebo effect). I ran the car several times so I went through the key cycles probably 6 times. No CEL. I went and drove the car down the highway and back and no CEL. I started the car again in my driveway, no CEL. I let it sit for a minute and turned it on again, no CEL.

So at this point, I thought heck, I am going to drive it on the highway again. See what boost feels like. I got on the highway again, hit boost a few times, came back and didn't have a CEL. Then I thought I was going to pull it in the garage. So I turned the car back on and BAM!! P0014 code.

So my theory is this... it is one of two things, or a combination of the both. Either the car is warming up, and when it gets hot, it heats up the tensioner and makes the timing belt too tight.

Or........

When I finally got into real boost, the VVT was kicking in, and the solenoid just got all gunked up and nasty from when the head gasket popped and needs to be replaced.

The light is not immediate, and only happens after I take it for a drive on the highway, so it has something to do with temperature building in the engine bay. This is why I think it might be the tensioner being too tight.

Anyone else have any ideas. I don't really think it is the timing. I used the OEM tool, and everything was just as picture perfect as could be.

[Ozark Lee]

Normally, when the preload is wrong, the CEL is immediate. At this point I would say that you have that part correct.

The oil passages beneath the CVVT valve need to be clean and open and, I think you already did it, but the valve itself needs to be clean. What kind of resistance do you have on the valve?

...Lee