98 V70XC Engine Skips a Beat
98 V70XC Engine Skips a Beat
I've had 2 V70's and both had this same problem (never had this issue with any of my 850's). What it does is the engine will be running fine, and then just skip a beat, like it misses temporarily. It does this both at idle and while driving. It's very erratic, sometimes going 10 minutes or so before it does it again, but it's really annoying and considering that I've changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor I really am at a loss as to what can be causing it. Anyone have any ideas?
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mecheng
- Posts: 1271
- Joined: 27 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 T5
- Location: Ontario, Canada
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My 98 S70 does it at idle once in a blue moon only and I've already done a full tune up. I've heard ppl point to 1)ECU software upgrade 2)O2 sensor 3)igniton switch
It doesn't bother me as it only happens very rarely, at idel and doesn't stall. But try above
It doesn't bother me as it only happens very rarely, at idel and doesn't stall. But try above
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
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cn90
- Posts: 8258
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- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
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Put in the NGK Iridium spark plugs, and if your car has cap/rotor, get new Bosch cap/rotor.
You will never see the skip beat again.
You will never see the skip beat again.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
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To clarify: brand of plugs definitely matters but they don't have to be NGK iridiums. Volvo brand, Bosch coppers, etc. there are several choices. Bosch only on the cap and rotor. Only. Bougicord only on the wires. Only.
Sounds very similar to a MAF problem. You can check that by unplugging the MAF and taking it for a drive (be prepared to reset the CEL for a MAF code). But since it is on both of your cars, these are good suggestions that it could be something systematic, like the brand of ignition parts you are installing.
Sounds very similar to a MAF problem. You can check that by unplugging the MAF and taking it for a drive (be prepared to reset the CEL for a MAF code). But since it is on both of your cars, these are good suggestions that it could be something systematic, like the brand of ignition parts you are installing.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
I tried the NGK Iridium, but the problem seemed worse (might have been my imagination, but it definitely didn't go away), so I went back to the NGK V groove plugs. I put in a Beck Arnley cap/rotor. I won't buy Bosch anything, it's all the cheapest chinese crap that they throw into their fancy boxes and sell for three times the price. After I had a Bosch water pump disintegrate inside my BMW 3 months after I installed it, I vowed to never buy anything carrying that name again. Especially after I called them and one of their top level CS people admitted to me they have no idea where their parts come from, he said they used to, but now they source from wherever they can get it cheapest and that changes day to day.cn90 wrote:Put in the NGK Iridium spark plugs, and if your car has cap/rotor, get new Bosch cap/rotor.
You will never see the skip beat again.
I'll give that a try. I did clean the MAF sensor and that didn't seem to do anything though.erikv11 wrote:To clarify: brand of plugs definitely matters but they don't have to be NGK iridiums. Volvo brand, Bosch coppers, etc. there are several choices. Bosch only on the cap and rotor. Only. Bougicord only on the wires. Only.
Sounds very similar to a MAF problem. You can check that by unplugging the MAF and taking it for a drive (be prepared to reset the CEL for a MAF code). But since it is on both of your cars, these are good suggestions that it could be something systematic, like the brand of ignition parts you are installing.
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mecheng
- Posts: 1271
- Joined: 27 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 T5
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 21 times
The Cap/Rotor from Bosch is made in Spain, I replaced it. I think it is very well made as it had 220,000km (it was the original) and it ran perfectly. The cap/rotor should be replaced much sooner than that.jmana wrote:I tried the NGK Iridium, but the problem seemed worse (might have been my imagination, but it definitely didn't go away), so I went back to the NGK V groove plugs. I put in a Beck Arnley cap/rotor. I won't buy Bosch anything, it's all the cheapest chinese crap that they throw into their fancy boxes and sell for three times the price. After I had a Bosch water pump disintegrate inside my BMW 3 months after I installed it, I vowed to never buy anything carrying that name again. Especially after I called them and one of their top level CS people admitted to me they have no idea where their parts come from, he said they used to, but now they source from wherever they can get it cheapest and that changes day to day.cn90 wrote:Put in the NGK Iridium spark plugs, and if your car has cap/rotor, get new Bosch cap/rotor.
You will never see the skip beat again.
I think I have a different issue than you as it only does it at idle. Bosch either makes great parts or soemewhat crappy. For ignition, ECU, they are very good.
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
Well, I bought a cheap set of plug wires a long time ago from a company called "Standard", and a month later when I went to replace the plugs I went to pull off the wires and they fell apart (despite putting dielectric grease on the plugs), so I bought a set of Bosch "Premium" wires, and they were the same exact wires, just had the bosch name stamped on. So I don't trust them for anything. Maybe you got lucky and got a good part from them, but that doesn't mean if you were to buy it today from them it would still come from Spain.mecheng wrote:The Cap/Rotor from Bosch is made in Spain, I replaced it. I think it is very well made as it had 220,000km (it was the original) and it ran perfectly. The cap/rotor should be replaced much sooner than that.jmana wrote:I tried the NGK Iridium, but the problem seemed worse (might have been my imagination, but it definitely didn't go away), so I went back to the NGK V groove plugs. I put in a Beck Arnley cap/rotor. I won't buy Bosch anything, it's all the cheapest chinese crap that they throw into their fancy boxes and sell for three times the price. After I had a Bosch water pump disintegrate inside my BMW 3 months after I installed it, I vowed to never buy anything carrying that name again. Especially after I called them and one of their top level CS people admitted to me they have no idea where their parts come from, he said they used to, but now they source from wherever they can get it cheapest and that changes day to day.cn90 wrote:Put in the NGK Iridium spark plugs, and if your car has cap/rotor, get new Bosch cap/rotor.
You will never see the skip beat again.
I think I have a different issue than you as it only does it at idle. Bosch either makes great parts or soemewhat crappy. For ignition, ECU, they are very good.
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
- Joined: 25 July 2009
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
- Has thanked: 292 times
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Bosch wires are not good, I agree with you there. If you do some searches on this forum you will find that experience echoed. The Bosch cap and rotor are tried and true over and over for these cars, for what it's worth. I bought a set in June and they were made in Spain, I still have the boxes so I just checked.
Beck/Arnely is a reboxing outfit, they don't do, or contract, any parts manufacturing. They make boxes, buy parts, box 'em up and ship them back out. You never know what make you will get, and it will not be the same for purchases separated in time. The only way to know the make with Beck/Arnley is to look for manufacturer markings on the part.
Please continue to post up if/as you figure out the stumble, this is a puzzler.
Beck/Arnely is a reboxing outfit, they don't do, or contract, any parts manufacturing. They make boxes, buy parts, box 'em up and ship them back out. You never know what make you will get, and it will not be the same for purchases separated in time. The only way to know the make with Beck/Arnley is to look for manufacturer markings on the part.
Please continue to post up if/as you figure out the stumble, this is a puzzler.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
The thing about Beck Arnley is they seem to have higher standards for what they rebrand. Everything I've gotten from them has been really high quality stuff. I am going to look at all the vacuum lines, maybe something is losing vacuum? I don't know.
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